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951 Motor - Not for the mechanically faint

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Old 06-30-2009, 05:16 PM
  #31  
M758
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Originally Posted by kurt M
Punch mark the rack location and remove the tie rod ends from the struts. Bolts right back in no change.

After watching a 951 motor come apart and go back together in my shop (Thankfully I was not the one working on it) I have concluded that 944 turbo motors are made entirely from tubing. Tubing of all sizes and types.
Yes that works to some degree, but it will still shift around. Just removing the rack and then installing it causes a small change in the alignment. It is not alot, but does exist. However doing toe on the front end is pretty easy.
Old 06-30-2009, 07:35 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
John, what do you mean resize the rods? That is one of my fears with these motors, that i am going to replace the bearings on a less than perfect crank and cause more problems than if i just left the old bearings in there.
You answered your own question. If you have an engine that has been together for many miles, few of the components that should be round are any more, and much more so on a turbo. If you introduce a full spec bearing into an out of spec environment, you create a complication (tight spots) that may likely see you have a failure sooner than if you'd just left it alone. This theory is derived from my own experience coupled with that of many pretty experienced 944 engine guys, and my ace machinist who I'm convinced has seen and done it all.

Resizing the rods takes the big end back to a perfectly round state of the proper ID. Then, a new bearing will be in a new environment, and as long as the crank journal is not messed up, it will be nice and happy. It is also an opportunity to open up the big end to a more track friendly ID to increase oil flow for. Bearing installations are a little too snug for serious track use if they are toward to tighter end of the spec.

I know..use plasti-gauge to check crush and clearances but that stuff is only so accurate.
That stuff is of little use for rod bearings. Think about the forces you are creating in torquing a ROD bearing and then tell me why Plasti-gauge doesn't tell you anything worthwhile?

Also regarding the 3pc crossmember, if you read around the 951 forum one or two people have experienced failures with them. I do have a 3pc crossmember for my car that was done by a local welder, it is basically a copy of what LR offers. I have installed one on my friends '89 and it worked / fit fine. But i can understand the concern of failure on a fairly important structural piece. I still debate putting it on my car when i do the rod bearings this winter. Dropping that crossmember really isnt all too much work in my opinion.. but it does take the 'edge' of the rod bearing job making me all the more willing to change the bearings every season or two rather than get that 'one extra day outta them'.
Well, you can save the work by not doing the bearings that often anyway. Overkill. Unless you see a loss of oil pressure, or do 40-50-60 RACE days a year, full tilit boogie fast, your bearings are likely fine. As for the x-member, your call. One thing to consider, the more times you disturb the caster mounts, the sooner you will strip a bolt. It is a matter of when, not if. I'm toying with a new design that will not require any welded plates on the x-member. Haven't gotten around to doing one yet though.

I do have some concerns also about the modified 2pc crossovers. I have read some threads where people were having a heck of a time getting them to line up correctly with the v-band flanges.
That could be the problem. The ones I build use a factory style crush ring gasket/flange setup like the other joints in the system. They are very easy to deal with when installing them as long as you put all the bolts in first before tightening ANY of them, and they have been 100% reliable.

Old 07-22-2009, 11:04 AM
  #33  
Larry Herman
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Well, it's pretty much back together, with just the intake manifold to go back on tonight & then start it up. Good thing that we did it as the second picture shows, with the #2 rod bearings on top and a good bearing half (from #1) below them.
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:13 AM
  #34  
Gary R.
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Next time take the pictures BEFORE you have that bowl of mini-wheats with Glenlivet 18 Larry!
Old 07-22-2009, 02:07 PM
  #35  
93 FireHawk 968
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Exactly why I have a 'Professional" work on the car.......
Old 07-22-2009, 02:10 PM
  #36  
Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by 93 FireHawk 968
Exactly why I have a 'Professional" work on the car.......
Why, we don't have any bolts left over.
Old 07-22-2009, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
Why, we don't have any bolts left over.
Old 07-22-2009, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by M758
That is the nice thing about an NA car. no plumbing to mess with when doing the bearings.
Yup. This post has been very useful in steering me away from a rather nice looking 951 on local Craigslist.
Old 07-27-2009, 10:44 AM
  #39  
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Back together and running fine! Just in time for a 3 day DE with all of my boys at Watkins Glen this weekend.


All in all, it was not as bad a job as I thought, it just takes a lot of time. When I re-aligned the front end I did take the opportunity to throw some more negative camber in it, which it desperately needed.



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