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Toyo R888 vs. Pireilli Corsa

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Old 06-26-2009, 05:14 PM
  #31  
mark kibort
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It seemed to rotate less on the 2nd race, maybe the heat cycle burned off the residual soap, or lube, or whatever they use at the tire store. probably also a function of rim design, as both the hoosiers with pretty low pressure and the toyos didnt move more than 6" in the rear and less than 2 " in the one front. (funny, i still dont know why the outside tire up front didnt move at all )

mk


Originally Posted by todinlaw
People are spinning the wheels on the rims more than they know, they just don't mark the tire and check it. I did the Hair spray and still not fully tested it yet. cross rotating the tires to spin them back is a solution and work. If the hair spray or dry mount does not work just will try not balancing next. The woes of a High HP car or is it a cheap tire casing?
Old 06-26-2009, 05:20 PM
  #32  
Bob Rouleau

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For the hairspary trick to work, the bead area of the rim has to be CLEAN. If there is residual lube it won't work. Until I learned the trick I would rotate the tires in half a lap. I have no idead how far they spun, chalk mark was half a tire diameter away from the original chalk mark. Did it spin half, one and a half..? dunno. Since then no spin.

Mark using hairspray as a lube works well, it is slippery enough to lube when wet and it dries sticky.

Best,
Old 06-26-2009, 05:57 PM
  #33  
mark kibort
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Ill try it next time.

Ive heard its a good trick. never thought I had an issue there. sounds like with hoosiers, I do! Toyos no. Ill double check after the next race next month with the hoosiers that have been on the rims for a month and have run 2 races.
mk

Originally Posted by Bob Rouleau
For the hairspary trick to work, the bead area of the rim has to be CLEAN. If there is residual lube it won't work. Until I learned the trick I would rotate the tires in half a lap. I have no idead how far they spun, chalk mark was half a tire diameter away from the original chalk mark. Did it spin half, one and a half..? dunno. Since then no spin.

Mark using hairspray as a lube works well, it is slippery enough to lube when wet and it dries sticky.

Best,
Old 06-28-2009, 01:52 PM
  #34  
RonCT
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Mark, I am as shocked as everyone about my pressure spike of 15-17 PSI at the rear. No issues with the brakes other than the bias was very good front to back. With my 07, the fronts did the vast majority of the work. With the 09, the rears were doing more of the work and so the front and rear rotors both were slightly glazing up, holes were filling with dust, etc. But no pad drag nor any other issue that might generate more heat. In fact, the rotors / pads felt the same temperature as past Porsches. But, the tires themselves got VERY hot and melty. I mentioned before that lots of water vapor came out when I would release pressure - still wondering about the physics of that, if maybe because they used water as lube to avoid spinning, maybe that's a reason for there being so much pressure spike.
Old 06-28-2009, 03:09 PM
  #35  
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Ron, sorry off the subject but waht pads are you now useing with your 09 997S?

Also does anyone know if the rim-bead design of CCW is different than Volks for example.
Old 06-30-2009, 02:54 PM
  #36  
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All I know is, I loved my R888's, first set.. Second set, they were ehhhh, then got good as they wore down a lot, at Monticello a month ago I had a good time on them , very consistent, then I switched just the rears to shaved/few heat cycle for VIR this past weekend since my front were still very good wear wise.. Scariest experience, dancing around the whole track with my back end, wasted 2 day's lol, slapped on my Hoosier R6's as I couldn't take it anymore and dropped 7-8 seconds off my lap times, unreal! The R888's were getting up to 40 psi from 28 cold, even when I bled them down to 38 next session out over 40 again, wore the whole middle out and left a ton of tread on outter shoulder!
Old 06-30-2009, 03:16 PM
  #37  
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Mike,
Trying 4-2-1 (Sport) pads and they were fine at Monticello and Watkins Glen. Slight glazing, but nothing serious. I would rather burn through more pad than rotor as changing the rotors is more of a pain and expense. Will have to see if the softer pad does extend the life of the rotor...
Old 06-30-2009, 08:59 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RonCT
Mike,
Trying 4-2-1 (Sport) pads and they were fine at Monticello and Watkins Glen. Slight glazing, but nothing serious. I would rather burn through more pad than rotor as changing the rotors is more of a pain and expense. Will have to see if the softer pad does extend the life of the rotor...
Are you getting less cracks from the holes with the softer pads?
Old 07-02-2009, 11:01 AM
  #39  
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4 DE Days in and no signs of cracks. Rotors are slightly glazed and grooved, front pads are about 1/2 gone, rears 1/4 (typical). These 4-2-1 are definitely wearing quicker than harder pads like Yellow 29s or PFC 97s, but appear to be gentler on the rotors.
Old 07-02-2009, 09:28 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by RonCT
4 DE Days in and no signs of cracks. Rotors are slightly glazed and grooved, front pads are about 1/2 gone, rears 1/4 (typical). These 4-2-1 are definitely wearing quicker than harder pads like Yellow 29s or PFC 97s, but appear to be gentler on the rotors.
I know we drive different tracks but I wore out my fronts Yellows in 3 events/5 days. I could go another event but they are thin enough now that they are transfering too much heat to the caliper.

I would like to try a set of 421's just to see but I am afraid that they will go away after a day or 2. Sebring can be hard on brakes I guess. I also brake a lot lighter now than I even did last year.
Old 07-02-2009, 11:31 PM
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Yellow 29s last me a very long time - must be the track and / or braking style (which I've adjusted over the years). If you are that hard on the brakes, I think the 4-2-1 will be "toast" quickly for you.
Old 07-02-2009, 11:49 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by iLLM3
All I know is, I loved my R888's, first set.. Second set, they were ehhhh, then got good as they wore down a lot, at Monticello a month ago I had a good time on them , very consistent, then I switched just the rears to shaved/few heat cycle for VIR this past weekend since my front were still very good wear wise.. Scariest experience, dancing around the whole track with my back end, wasted 2 day's lol, slapped on my Hoosier R6's as I couldn't take it anymore and dropped 7-8 seconds off my lap times, unreal! The R888's were getting up to 40 psi from 28 cold, even when I bled them down to 38 next session out over 40 again, wore the whole middle out and left a ton of tread on outter shoulder!
At 40psi I don't think they were over inflated wear on middle and inside can also be from the amount of Toe you are running. do you have the stock toe links? if so check the toe, I was always chasing the toe settings with the stock toe links. I finally put in aftermarket toe links and solved that problem.
Old 07-03-2009, 01:39 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by todinlaw
At 40psi I don't think they were over inflated wear on middle and inside can also be from the amount of Toe you are running. do you have the stock toe links? if so check the toe, I was always chasing the toe settings with the stock toe links. I finally put in aftermarket toe links and solved that problem.
Have aftermarket toe links with bump steer, so that isn't the issue.. I'm running 0 toe up front and like 2mm out in rear, that's it, nice and neutral as anything more aggressive drove me and my car nuts!

Tires were getting up to 42 psi, 95 degrees on track and really beating the hell out of the tires and over driving them for what it's worth... Suffice to say, they were worthless out there and wore quickly, primarily straight down the middle!



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