viperbob

With a 700HP 993TT (2WD) I was running 900/1200 and it still was great to drive on the street. The CS is amazing. If you are still running with the AWD unit (which I remove most of the time in serious TTs) then you will want a little lower spring rate in front as you will have WAY too much understeer.

Mark in Baltimore

Larry,

Keep in mind that the valving of the Motons is different from the Decarbon design of the Bilsteins, meaning that the ride will not be all that rough. I have 700/900 springs in my 3000lb car (considered to be too soft for the track by some folks) and it rides pretty decently on the street.

Now, what type of camber for the street that you'll be stuck with is a different story . . .

forklift

I have 750/900 for sale if interested w/ pearches, hats and helpers.

http://www.dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=19263

Land Jet

Geoff[ASG] and I are talking about rear toe links and control arms. That being said, this new setup will be a great improvement, and as I get used to it, and my driving and car reading skills improve, I will do further tweaking as I go along. Geoff crews with Farnbacher-Lolles so should be able to get good intel as to alignment and such.

Bob. I still have the AWD. It is confidence inspiring to me[rookie].

KOAN

I would defer to Viper Bob for the correct spring rates and advantages of each. Much of what I know I have learned from him and his set up of my previous car. He is a master.

Land Jet

Bob is a master, I agree. Lex at Moton recommended a 600/900 set for the track.

Accelerator

I run my track damper settings and the springs (20/26) on the street and the ride is surprisingly good. Of course I don't go searcing for potholes or drive on rough roads.

Land Jet

If I were to buy the 600/900 spring set, can I dial the shock settings softer for street driving, or does that not work well on these dual setting shocks? I know on the PSS9's it was easy and worked fine. But I also know the 2 systems are very different.

Larry Herman

I have found that the more suspension movement that you have, the less critical each click of shock adjustment becomes. It also allows for "set it and forget it" tuning. As you go to stiffer springs (north of 1000 in/lbs) and therefore less movement, you will find that the track surface and amount of bumps and undulations will affect the suspension and amount of grip to a much greater degree, and will necessitate adjustments for that very reason. I keep a book with settings that I have derived for each track that I run on. Shock adjustment is very much an art and it requires some pretty serious car feel and understanding of handling to get it right.

sharkster

Hey Larry, great talking to you and Lex is a really god port of call on these. As I was saying there's no "right" set up with this many adjustments and also different cars/tracks. You just need to "play" a little. Glad you got the drop links. I'm not keen on using the flimsy stockers

We used these on our car also:
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=207
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=206
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=205
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=204

Mike Buck

I thought the hot setup now was to go stiffer in the front with the springs vs. rear?

forklift

I went from 750/900 to 900/750 and on my car, it felt much better, but just a tad too much US that couldn't be dialed out. Then went to 800/800 and the car feels better. Many are happy w/ 600/800 or 700/900 but my car doesn't like it for some reason....or I don't.

Veloce Raptor

Agreed. My rear springs are now 1000lb springs, and I have found the above to be 100% true. I keep a book for the same reason. My "best" settings vary by track and type of tires.







Professional Racing and Driving Coach

George A

Dave, I want the full sized pic of your new avatar. I've got nothing to add to the discussion.....

G.

Veloce Raptor

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