Moton setup and education
#16
With a 700HP 993TT (2WD) I was running 900/1200 and it still was great to drive on the street. The CS is amazing. If you are still running with the AWD unit (which I remove most of the time in serious TTs) then you will want a little lower spring rate in front as you will have WAY too much understeer.
#17
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Larry,
Keep in mind that the valving of the Motons is different from the Decarbon design of the Bilsteins, meaning that the ride will not be all that rough. I have 700/900 springs in my 3000lb car (considered to be too soft for the track by some folks) and it rides pretty decently on the street.
Now, what type of camber for the street that you'll be stuck with is a different story . . .
Keep in mind that the valving of the Motons is different from the Decarbon design of the Bilsteins, meaning that the ride will not be all that rough. I have 700/900 springs in my 3000lb car (considered to be too soft for the track by some folks) and it rides pretty decently on the street.
Now, what type of camber for the street that you'll be stuck with is a different story . . .
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Geoff[ASG] and I are talking about rear toe links and control arms. That being said, this new setup will be a great improvement, and as I get used to it, and my driving and car reading skills improve, I will do further tweaking as I go along. Geoff crews with Farnbacher-Lolles so should be able to get good intel as to alignment and such.
Bob. I still have the AWD. It is confidence inspiring to me[rookie].
Bob. I still have the AWD. It is confidence inspiring to me[rookie].
#22
The spring set is a street car setup, and came with the package I bought. Lex said it will all work together. If I can't live with it, I'll buy different springs. Kind of don't want a buckboard ride since I still drive it on the street. It's got to be way better than what I have now.
I run my track damper settings and the springs (20/26) on the street and the ride is surprisingly good. Of course I don't go searcing for potholes or drive on rough roads.
#23
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Thread Starter
If I were to buy the 600/900 spring set, can I dial the shock settings softer for street driving, or does that not work well on these dual setting shocks? I know on the PSS9's it was easy and worked fine. But I also know the 2 systems are very different.
#24
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I have found that the more suspension movement that you have, the less critical each click of shock adjustment becomes. It also allows for "set it and forget it" tuning. As you go to stiffer springs (north of 1000 in/lbs) and therefore less movement, you will find that the track surface and amount of bumps and undulations will affect the suspension and amount of grip to a much greater degree, and will necessitate adjustments for that very reason. I keep a book with settings that I have derived for each track that I run on. Shock adjustment is very much an art and it requires some pretty serious car feel and understanding of handling to get it right.
__________________
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#25
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I talked with Lex this morning. He said for my car with the spring set I have, to set 3/4 on the fronts, and 4/6 on the rears. The canisters should be, fronts 150lbs., rears 175lbs. After that he said i have to play with them and there is no easy answer.
I have in hand, front and rear adjustable sways that will be put on the same time as the shocks. Also got TRG drop links and probably rear toe links and control arms.
I will contact Larry Herman and get his feedback. Thanks for the other tips guys.
I am pumped. I think my car might handle better now.
I have in hand, front and rear adjustable sways that will be put on the same time as the shocks. Also got TRG drop links and probably rear toe links and control arms.
I will contact Larry Herman and get his feedback. Thanks for the other tips guys.
I am pumped. I think my car might handle better now.
We used these on our car also:
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=207
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=206
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=205
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=204
#27
Rennlist Member
I went from 750/900 to 900/750 and on my car, it felt much better, but just a tad too much US that couldn't be dialed out. Then went to 800/800 and the car feels better. Many are happy w/ 600/800 or 700/900 but my car doesn't like it for some reason....or I don't.
#28
Rennlist Member
I have found that the more suspension movement that you have, the less critical each click of shock adjustment becomes. It also allows for "set it and forget it" tuning. As you go to stiffer springs (north of 1000 in/lbs) and therefore less movement, you will find that the track surface and amount of bumps and undulations will affect the suspension and amount of grip to a much greater degree, and will necessitate adjustments for that very reason. I keep a book with settings that I have derived for each track that I run on. Shock adjustment is very much an art and it requires some pretty serious car feel and understanding of handling to get it right.
Agreed. My rear springs are now 1000lb springs, and I have found the above to be 100% true. I keep a book for the same reason. My "best" settings vary by track and type of tires.
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