Shopping for 18" Wheels - Suggestions?
04-07-2009, 11:34 PM
#61
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these are custom wheels, he can make the offset work for your car.
but the "classic' has a look of their own. it's a bit "industrial" you may like it or you may, chk their website.
04-08-2009, 10:16 AM
#62
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02-11-2011, 02:18 AM
#63
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Just bumping this thread to see if anyone else has had more experiences with the various choices. Seems to be a lot of opposed opinions out there. eg has anyone actually tried those OZ wheels and is the quality reflective of their pricing? Why do some people love Fikses and others have had issues?
02-11-2011, 09:40 AM
#64
I ran OZ Ultraleggeras on my BMW M3 race car for several years. They are an excellent wheel. I routinely clip every curb on the track to gain a few inches. I have never been able to damage one. I put them in the same category as BBS.
Fikse, like CCW, were stung by a bad batch of aluminum alloy a few years back (around 2004 I think). It was the supplier's mistake. I have also broken a set of CCWs. Even 6 years later, CCW stood behind their product and gave me new replacement wheels. They do not have the problem today.
More recently, I have been racing (the BMW) on wheels by Apex. They are inexpensive and of very high quality. They are becoming very popular in BMW club racing circles and I have not heard of a single bad experience.
They do not currently do Porsche fittments but have said they are considering it. It takes them a few months to design and release a new wheel. You might want to contact them and encourage them. I suggested they start with 996 GT3 sizes.
See: http://www.apexraceparts.com/3-Serie...2-M3_c_33.html
I would not do the Enkeis. I know a fellow club racer who has bent 7 out of his 15 in the past year. And he is probably easier on wheels than I am...
Fikse, like CCW, were stung by a bad batch of aluminum alloy a few years back (around 2004 I think). It was the supplier's mistake. I have also broken a set of CCWs. Even 6 years later, CCW stood behind their product and gave me new replacement wheels. They do not have the problem today.
More recently, I have been racing (the BMW) on wheels by Apex. They are inexpensive and of very high quality. They are becoming very popular in BMW club racing circles and I have not heard of a single bad experience.
They do not currently do Porsche fittments but have said they are considering it. It takes them a few months to design and release a new wheel. You might want to contact them and encourage them. I suggested they start with 996 GT3 sizes.
See: http://www.apexraceparts.com/3-Serie...2-M3_c_33.html
I would not do the Enkeis. I know a fellow club racer who has bent 7 out of his 15 in the past year. And he is probably easier on wheels than I am...
02-11-2011, 11:32 AM
#65
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Ya know, there are generally three reasons people make a certain wheel choice with looks being towards the top, cost is definitely considered but I think (even though it's a tight three considerations) rarely do people consider structural integrity at the top of reasons to purchase.
With that said, there's no better "protection" out there than a good quality forged aluminum wheel, whether it's 3-piece, 2-piece or monoblock...a nice hard annodization process adds to the hardness as well.
Out of the manufacturers that provide any or all of the three above choices, customer service, experience "in the field" and a history of their product standing up to the elements are all keys to ensuring the utmost of safety/performance with regards to your wheels.
I've seen wheels break, some of the results made sense, others did not. If someone plows into a curb and goes agricultural, it's understandable they may wind up with a bent/broken wheel...if someone is going through a hot turn and their wheel fractures the center for no real reason...that blows my mind!!
I still have the orginal Fikse FM-10s I ordered up and had made for my car several years ago, and have never had an issue with them. I won a set of nicely used Kodiak wheels and had a few bolts mysteriously "disappear" and then a very difficult time getting them to send me bolts to rebuild the wheels...but they eventually did and all was good.
I eventually traded the Kodiaks towards a set of CCW 18" wheels and shortly thereafter ordered a twin set of them (except in black) and have had nothing but a phenomenal experience with them. I kept my Fikses (17") and use them for my "baller" rain wheels.
Fikses and CCWs are pretty pricey, considering other options out there...and I can't speak for many other wheel manufacturers except for the OEM providers for Porsche, of which I have owned/tracked several sets without issue...but have witnessed a few issues. My only problem with Porsche factory wheels is that they're heavy and everyone else's idea of a used wheel for sale that is in "great" condition can differ from mine and yours.
Have I made a point? ...maybe not, other than to keep with a good quality wheel that suits your taste and budget. If you're going racing with said wheel, consider it's history of issues, the company that manufactured them, their customer service history and so forth.
There is a WEALTH of information on this board and elsewhere on the web...do your homework, especially if you're going to the track with your "new" wheels!
With that said, there's no better "protection" out there than a good quality forged aluminum wheel, whether it's 3-piece, 2-piece or monoblock...a nice hard annodization process adds to the hardness as well.
Out of the manufacturers that provide any or all of the three above choices, customer service, experience "in the field" and a history of their product standing up to the elements are all keys to ensuring the utmost of safety/performance with regards to your wheels.
I've seen wheels break, some of the results made sense, others did not. If someone plows into a curb and goes agricultural, it's understandable they may wind up with a bent/broken wheel...if someone is going through a hot turn and their wheel fractures the center for no real reason...that blows my mind!!
I still have the orginal Fikse FM-10s I ordered up and had made for my car several years ago, and have never had an issue with them. I won a set of nicely used Kodiak wheels and had a few bolts mysteriously "disappear" and then a very difficult time getting them to send me bolts to rebuild the wheels...but they eventually did and all was good.
I eventually traded the Kodiaks towards a set of CCW 18" wheels and shortly thereafter ordered a twin set of them (except in black) and have had nothing but a phenomenal experience with them. I kept my Fikses (17") and use them for my "baller" rain wheels.
Fikses and CCWs are pretty pricey, considering other options out there...and I can't speak for many other wheel manufacturers except for the OEM providers for Porsche, of which I have owned/tracked several sets without issue...but have witnessed a few issues. My only problem with Porsche factory wheels is that they're heavy and everyone else's idea of a used wheel for sale that is in "great" condition can differ from mine and yours.
Have I made a point? ...maybe not, other than to keep with a good quality wheel that suits your taste and budget. If you're going racing with said wheel, consider it's history of issues, the company that manufactured them, their customer service history and so forth.
There is a WEALTH of information on this board and elsewhere on the web...do your homework, especially if you're going to the track with your "new" wheels!
02-11-2011, 05:40 PM
#66
Rennlist Member
See there in just two posts you get two guys with good things to say about the opposite type of wheel. 1 piece cast vs forged. Most everyone is going to say the forged is better but I haven't seen any / many putting the OZ down with quantifiable evidence apart from opinion that 1 piece cast must be crap. I wish someone would actually post a definitive reason not to buy the OZ's as they are attractive and cheaper for sure.
As far as the 3 reasons theory goes, well let me add a 4th. Distance. Buying something to have shipped to Australia means service, repairs, rebuilding etc takes on a whole new dimension. I could / would buy some spare inners and outers to go with a 3 piece choice which might help speed up repairs.
The search continues....
As far as the 3 reasons theory goes, well let me add a 4th. Distance. Buying something to have shipped to Australia means service, repairs, rebuilding etc takes on a whole new dimension. I could / would buy some spare inners and outers to go with a 3 piece choice which might help speed up repairs.
The search continues....
02-11-2011, 08:00 PM
#67
I thought I cleared up the forged thing. People had problem with "some" Fikse and CCW one piece forged wheels due to a bad supply of aluminum around 2004-2005. That was the real problem. It had nothing to do with the fact they were forged. Other than some sets of that vintage, they are otherwise excellent wheels.
I've heard lots of people have problems with cheap cast wheels. I have never heard of anyone having a problem with OZ or BBS cast wheels. Before I raced on OZs, I raced on BBS RKs. I beat the crap out of those wheels. The only damage I ever did was when a guy stuck his side pipes into them. Even then they showed only minor cosmetic damage. I've similarly not been able to hurt the Apex wheels (but they don't fit Porsche as of yet).
So... cast wheels are okay for racing as long as they are high quality cast wheels. BBS and OZ get 5 stars there...
Forged 3pc wheels are only forged centers. The rim halves are spun and are much softer. They are easy to bend.
My only real beef with 3pc was maintenance. BBS Motorsport wheels are a good wheel. Though I have heard of people bending the halves. I had trouble with the BBS Motorsport wheels leaking through the gasket. You can change the gasket but you have to rebuild the wheel. I also had HRE 3pc wheels that kept breaking the modular bolts (and leaking). That turned out to be a manufacturing defect where the center was not machined smoothly and it was rocking the tops off the bolts. Again, fixable by rebuilding (and remachining). Maintenance is a pain as compared to a one piece.
The other thing I liked about the OZs for racing is they are inexpensive. So you can afford to have lots around. If you do bend one... just chuck it and buy another. Should be easy to get in Australia too. The whole wheel is cheaper than parts for the BBS Motorsport wheels.
The big advantage of 3pc wheels is flexibility. You can have any size and offset you want. For an older car like my 930, it's really the only option. For a more modern Porsche, there are lots of good 1pc options.
I've heard lots of people have problems with cheap cast wheels. I have never heard of anyone having a problem with OZ or BBS cast wheels. Before I raced on OZs, I raced on BBS RKs. I beat the crap out of those wheels. The only damage I ever did was when a guy stuck his side pipes into them. Even then they showed only minor cosmetic damage. I've similarly not been able to hurt the Apex wheels (but they don't fit Porsche as of yet).
So... cast wheels are okay for racing as long as they are high quality cast wheels. BBS and OZ get 5 stars there...
Forged 3pc wheels are only forged centers. The rim halves are spun and are much softer. They are easy to bend.
My only real beef with 3pc was maintenance. BBS Motorsport wheels are a good wheel. Though I have heard of people bending the halves. I had trouble with the BBS Motorsport wheels leaking through the gasket. You can change the gasket but you have to rebuild the wheel. I also had HRE 3pc wheels that kept breaking the modular bolts (and leaking). That turned out to be a manufacturing defect where the center was not machined smoothly and it was rocking the tops off the bolts. Again, fixable by rebuilding (and remachining). Maintenance is a pain as compared to a one piece.
The other thing I liked about the OZs for racing is they are inexpensive. So you can afford to have lots around. If you do bend one... just chuck it and buy another. Should be easy to get in Australia too. The whole wheel is cheaper than parts for the BBS Motorsport wheels.
The big advantage of 3pc wheels is flexibility. You can have any size and offset you want. For an older car like my 930, it's really the only option. For a more modern Porsche, there are lots of good 1pc options.
02-11-2011, 08:33 PM
#68
Rennlist Member
Ya know, there are generally three reasons people make a certain wheel choice with looks being towards the top, cost is definitely considered but I think (even though it's a tight three considerations) rarely do people consider structural integrity at the top of reasons to purchase.
With that said, there's no better "protection" out there than a good quality forged aluminum wheel, whether it's 3-piece, 2-piece or monoblock...a nice hard annodization process adds to the hardness as well.
Out of the manufacturers that provide any or all of the three above choices, customer service, experience "in the field" and a history of their product standing up to the elements are all keys to ensuring the utmost of safety/performance with regards to your wheels.
I've seen wheels break, some of the results made sense, others did not. If someone plows into a curb and goes agricultural, it's understandable they may wind up with a bent/broken wheel...if someone is going through a hot turn and their wheel fractures the center for no real reason...that blows my mind!!
I still have the orginal Fikse FM-10s I ordered up and had made for my car several years ago, and have never had an issue with them. I won a set of nicely used Kodiak wheels and had a few bolts mysteriously "disappear" and then a very difficult time getting them to send me bolts to rebuild the wheels...but they eventually did and all was good.
I eventually traded the Kodiaks towards a set of CCW 18" wheels and shortly thereafter ordered a twin set of them (except in black) and have had nothing but a phenomenal experience with them. I kept my Fikses (17") and use them for my "baller" rain wheels.
Fikses and CCWs are pretty pricey, considering other options out there...and I can't speak for many other wheel manufacturers except for the OEM providers for Porsche, of which I have owned/tracked several sets without issue...but have witnessed a few issues. My only problem with Porsche factory wheels is that they're heavy and everyone else's idea of a used wheel for sale that is in "great" condition can differ from mine and yours.
Have I made a point? ...maybe not, other than to keep with a good quality wheel that suits your taste and budget. If you're going racing with said wheel, consider it's history of issues, the company that manufactured them, their customer service history and so forth.
There is a WEALTH of information on this board and elsewhere on the web...do your homework, especially if you're going to the track with your "new" wheels!
With that said, there's no better "protection" out there than a good quality forged aluminum wheel, whether it's 3-piece, 2-piece or monoblock...a nice hard annodization process adds to the hardness as well.
Out of the manufacturers that provide any or all of the three above choices, customer service, experience "in the field" and a history of their product standing up to the elements are all keys to ensuring the utmost of safety/performance with regards to your wheels.
I've seen wheels break, some of the results made sense, others did not. If someone plows into a curb and goes agricultural, it's understandable they may wind up with a bent/broken wheel...if someone is going through a hot turn and their wheel fractures the center for no real reason...that blows my mind!!
I still have the orginal Fikse FM-10s I ordered up and had made for my car several years ago, and have never had an issue with them. I won a set of nicely used Kodiak wheels and had a few bolts mysteriously "disappear" and then a very difficult time getting them to send me bolts to rebuild the wheels...but they eventually did and all was good.
I eventually traded the Kodiaks towards a set of CCW 18" wheels and shortly thereafter ordered a twin set of them (except in black) and have had nothing but a phenomenal experience with them. I kept my Fikses (17") and use them for my "baller" rain wheels.
Fikses and CCWs are pretty pricey, considering other options out there...and I can't speak for many other wheel manufacturers except for the OEM providers for Porsche, of which I have owned/tracked several sets without issue...but have witnessed a few issues. My only problem with Porsche factory wheels is that they're heavy and everyone else's idea of a used wheel for sale that is in "great" condition can differ from mine and yours.
Have I made a point? ...maybe not, other than to keep with a good quality wheel that suits your taste and budget. If you're going racing with said wheel, consider it's history of issues, the company that manufactured them, their customer service history and so forth.
There is a WEALTH of information on this board and elsewhere on the web...do your homework, especially if you're going to the track with your "new" wheels!
Overall, yes, forging typically yields stronger products than casting. But saying I will only run forged wheels and dismissing cast options is ill-informed.
Back on topic...I'm a big fan of CCW. Very attractive combination of cost/weight/durability/aesthetics.
02-11-2011, 08:53 PM
#69
Rennlist Member
only bad thing i heard about OZ allegeritas was that sometimes they may be difficult to get properly balanced. if OZs do exist in your ideal sizes and offsets - they are difficult to beat for bang per buck you get.
other inexpensive option for custom built wheels are Forgestar CF5 - about of $1700 per set.
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...san-diego.html
CCW are better rims than both those above - forged, have great customer support, John is a great person to deal with and quality wise CCW is superb. I run CCW and like them a lot.
other inexpensive option for custom built wheels are Forgestar CF5 - about of $1700 per set.
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...san-diego.html
CCW are better rims than both those above - forged, have great customer support, John is a great person to deal with and quality wise CCW is superb. I run CCW and like them a lot.
02-11-2011, 09:07 PM
#70
Rennlist Member
Ok, then just to add this to the mix...what about running with spacers? I know you need to maintain a long enough lug for safety so it's not just a matter of slipping on one of those generic discs with 5 holes in them. You can add longer lugs but does this decrease strength? Or one of the 'proper' spacers with their own lugs. Is there a reason not to run those?
02-11-2011, 10:01 PM
#71
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Patrick,
I saw Mr. Carroll race at Tremblant and he races very very hard
. So, He must know quite a bit about curbs and wheels. I would definitely trust this opinion.
I can't use OZ's because of my 86 offset. And I'm happy to buy 3 pieces wheels (Fikse's and Jongbloed so far). But if you can save money and put it elsewhere, then why not!
c.
I saw Mr. Carroll race at Tremblant and he races very very hard
. So, He must know quite a bit about curbs and wheels. I would definitely trust this opinion.I can't use OZ's because of my 86 offset. And I'm happy to buy 3 pieces wheels (Fikse's and Jongbloed so far). But if you can save money and put it elsewhere, then why not!
c.
02-12-2011, 02:25 AM
#72
Lots of interesting opinions on this thread....
Three piece wheels, when used with a proper sealant, not the leak prone BBS gasket, will not leak from heat. CCW, Fikse, Kodiak and Forgeline wheels, to name a few, do not suffer this heat related problem.
Fikse, and CCW bought their forgings from two seperate companies in the past. One from centerline, one from APP.
Each manufactururer can buy from a list of "stock" forging profiles or pay to have their own dies made for their use only. This goes for one piece or three piece wheels.
Fikse has recently changed the heat treating process for their wheels. There was plenty of cracked "FM" style wheels, where the Profil wheels, with thicker cross sections, were great. The issues with the "FM" series seem to be sorted.
Most manufactures buy all or some of their rim shells from one of two suppliers in NA. Some spin form and heat treat their own parts. Some spin some parts and buy others parts.
Spun rim shells are cold formed and produce a nice strong product when heat treated properly and when one begins with a good base, like 6061, and not a 5000 series product.
T6 is the temper wheel parts should be finished to.
Fikse, Forgeline, CCW, BBS, HRE etc all produce wheels that are of high quality. Pick the one that suits your budget and looks good to your eye and you will be alright.
Cheers
Three piece wheels, when used with a proper sealant, not the leak prone BBS gasket, will not leak from heat. CCW, Fikse, Kodiak and Forgeline wheels, to name a few, do not suffer this heat related problem.
Fikse, and CCW bought their forgings from two seperate companies in the past. One from centerline, one from APP.
Each manufactururer can buy from a list of "stock" forging profiles or pay to have their own dies made for their use only. This goes for one piece or three piece wheels.
Fikse has recently changed the heat treating process for their wheels. There was plenty of cracked "FM" style wheels, where the Profil wheels, with thicker cross sections, were great. The issues with the "FM" series seem to be sorted.
Most manufactures buy all or some of their rim shells from one of two suppliers in NA. Some spin form and heat treat their own parts. Some spin some parts and buy others parts.
Spun rim shells are cold formed and produce a nice strong product when heat treated properly and when one begins with a good base, like 6061, and not a 5000 series product.
T6 is the temper wheel parts should be finished to.
Fikse, Forgeline, CCW, BBS, HRE etc all produce wheels that are of high quality. Pick the one that suits your budget and looks good to your eye and you will be alright.
Cheers