Heat Cycling new tyres
03-27-2009, 06:04 PM
#16
In the US I like to use Bob Woodman Tires in SC. They do a lot of pro level race support and have an infinite amount of knowledge on these. But I believe you can get them from any Toyo dealer.
http://www.bobwoodmantires.com/
http://www.bobwoodmantires.com/
03-27-2009, 08:05 PM
#17
The Penguin King
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They seem to have a stiffer sidewall, and need less pressure. Unfortunately, they are not very useful in the rain. I've got a set that I'm going to drive to the cord, and then I'm going with R888's full time.
03-27-2009, 08:26 PM
#18
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I don't know about camber with the Michelin's but I agree with these other comments. Also, I've found the R888's to have decent grip right down to the cord. I got 5 DE's out of my first set. NT-01's are nice too.
They seem to have a stiffer sidewall, and need less pressure. Unfortunately, they are not very useful in the rain. I've got a set that I'm going to drive to the cord, and then I'm going with R888's full time.
They seem to have a stiffer sidewall, and need less pressure. Unfortunately, they are not very useful in the rain. I've got a set that I'm going to drive to the cord, and then I'm going with R888's full time.
03-27-2009, 08:53 PM
#19
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I have 19 hc on my NT01's and have about 50% life left still. I found a street in a local industrial park that has a large culdesac and spent five minutes to the left then five minutes to the right to get a bit of heat in the tyre and seemed to work well. I would have to guess I will get 35+ hc out of them.
03-27-2009, 08:58 PM
#20
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Forget the Michelin and stay with the Toyo. Especially for DE. I've tried both and much prefer the Toyo.
1) Michelin PSCs are scary in cold weather. Toyos love cold weather.
2) Michelin PSCs do not pump water. Toyos love the water.
3) Michelin PSCs need tons of negative camber - too much for the street. Toyos prefer a lot less camber.
Heat cycling is important in racing where every little bit counts. For DE it's not that big a deal. Especially if you drive too and from the track. I have used the TireRack heat cycling and I think it's pretty close to the real thing. Certainly good enough when you don't have the option of letting them sit (off the car) for 48 hours.
Lately I'm a big proponent of keeping it simple. I stick the R888s on the car in the spring and leave them there till the fall. K.I.S.S. I leave all the swapping and screwing around to the race car.
1) Michelin PSCs are scary in cold weather. Toyos love cold weather.
2) Michelin PSCs do not pump water. Toyos love the water.
3) Michelin PSCs need tons of negative camber - too much for the street. Toyos prefer a lot less camber.
Heat cycling is important in racing where every little bit counts. For DE it's not that big a deal. Especially if you drive too and from the track. I have used the TireRack heat cycling and I think it's pretty close to the real thing. Certainly good enough when you don't have the option of letting them sit (off the car) for 48 hours.
Lately I'm a big proponent of keeping it simple. I stick the R888s on the car in the spring and leave them there till the fall. K.I.S.S. I leave all the swapping and screwing around to the race car.
03-27-2009, 10:28 PM
#21
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The first time a competition tire is used is the most important. During that run, its tread compound is stretched, some of the weaker bonds between the rubber molecules will be broken (which generates some of the heat). If the tires are initially run too hard or too long, some of the stronger bonds will also be broken which will reduces the tire's grip and wear qualities. Running new tires through an easy heat cycle first, and allowing them to relax allows the rubber bonds to relink in a more uniform manner than they were originally manufactured. It actually makes them more consistent in strength and more resistant to losing their strength the next time they are used. An important heat cycling step is that after being brought up to temperature, the tires require a minimum of 24 to 48 hours to relax and reform the bonds between their rubber molecules.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=66
Please call me if you have any questions!
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=66
Please call me if you have any questions!
03-31-2009, 05:17 PM
#22
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In the US I like to use Bob Woodman Tires in SC. They do a lot of pro level race support and have an infinite amount of knowledge on these. But I believe you can get them from any Toyo dealer.
http://www.bobwoodmantires.com/
http://www.bobwoodmantires.com/
Last edited by normank; 03-31-2009 at 05:18 PM. Reason: Addition.
03-31-2009, 09:22 PM
#24
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TOYOSONLY@yahoo.com
Bryan Schacleford, great guy in AZ. Next day to CA, he has RA-1s 888s and nittos too.
Shaved nittos!! fast as hell.
Bryan Schacleford, great guy in AZ. Next day to CA, he has RA-1s 888s and nittos too.
Shaved nittos!! fast as hell.
04-01-2009, 12:14 AM
#25
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TOYOSONLY@yahoo.com
Bryan Schacleford, great guy in AZ. Next day to CA, he has RA-1s 888s and nittos too.
Shaved nittos!! fast as hell.
Bryan Schacleford, great guy in AZ. Next day to CA, he has RA-1s 888s and nittos too.
Shaved nittos!! fast as hell.
04-02-2009, 01:52 AM
#26
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Do you run in the faster run groups? If so, shaving the tires is probably more important than heat cycling. If you run full tread the tread blocks heat up and it will wear the tires much faster than if you shave them. Good thing is the Toyo's get faster with use... to a point. Go to Bob Woodman for this and see if you can still get RA-1's vs R888.
04-02-2009, 09:10 AM
#27
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Do you run in the faster run groups? If so, shaving the tires is probably more important than heat cycling. If you run full tread the tread blocks heat up and it will wear the tires much faster than if you shave them. Good thing is the Toyo's get faster with use... to a point. Go to Bob Woodman for this and see if you can still get RA-1's vs R888.
04-02-2009, 09:41 AM
#28
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If there is standing water, there is no fun to be had, but damp track is no problemo. And cold temps aren't either if you are pushing them hard enough.
