Help: Race Seat Install 74-89 911
#1
Burning Brakes
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Really need help form someone who has BTDT.
I recently bought a Cobra Evolution Technology Seat in GT width with Cobra aluminum side mounts. I have 1980 911SC. My plan is to remove the stock sheet metal shelves on which the stock sliders mount and fabricate and install a custom frame between the rocker rail and center tunnel on which the side mount brackets would sit. However, the space available between the rocker rail and the center tunnel is 18 inches. The distance between the outside edges of the side-mount brackets is 18.75 inches, so they will not fit. I believe the seat will fit between the tunnels, but I need a bracket that does not bend outward as the standard Cobra ones do.
Unfortunately, Cobra has a statement on their website that says the FIA certification is only valid if Cobra side-mounts are used.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is it possible to mount a wider seat down low between the tunnels in an older 911?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I recently bought a Cobra Evolution Technology Seat in GT width with Cobra aluminum side mounts. I have 1980 911SC. My plan is to remove the stock sheet metal shelves on which the stock sliders mount and fabricate and install a custom frame between the rocker rail and center tunnel on which the side mount brackets would sit. However, the space available between the rocker rail and the center tunnel is 18 inches. The distance between the outside edges of the side-mount brackets is 18.75 inches, so they will not fit. I believe the seat will fit between the tunnels, but I need a bracket that does not bend outward as the standard Cobra ones do.
Unfortunately, Cobra has a statement on their website that says the FIA certification is only valid if Cobra side-mounts are used.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is it possible to mount a wider seat down low between the tunnels in an older 911?
Thanks in advance for your help.
#2
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Don the side mounts may go in as mirror images of each other so that if you were to look at them from the front of the car each would look like a backwards "L". Right now if you're going outside edge to outside edge they would look like a regular "L" on the left and a backwards "L" on the right. My B-K mounts are both in the backwards "L" position and it also seats you closer to the center tunnel which you will want especially when the cage goes in. I'm pretty sure the Recaro and Sparco side mounts are also designed to be installed this way. Did I totally confuse you?
#3
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I have an Evolution GT in my SC. I have also cut out the factory rails and welded a subframe down against the seat pan. I am using B-K seat brackets with a seat back brace as per the rules (COBRA + B-K is not FIA). These brackets are a single radius right angle bend, not the compound bend that you describe. I am using them primarily because they mount the seat the lowest of any brackets currently on the market and work best with GT width seats (recommended by COBRA). My seat & brackets fit in between the center tunnel and side sill fine. Granted there's not a lot of room but I have enough clearance to get an allen wrench between the chassis and the side bolts (I am using socket head screws). I wouldn't think the compound bend brackets would have a problem.
I'm not able to look at it closely right now but if you PM your email I'll check tonight and get back to you with pictures.
I'm not able to look at it closely right now but if you PM your email I'll check tonight and get back to you with pictures.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Chris M and Chris P, Thanks for the input.
Chris M, Because of the bend, if I flip the mounts around, the dimension is the same. No, I am not totally confused; I get it. If you look at the mounts end-on, the flat part on the bottom is centered on the vetical part above, so either way you flip them, the dimension is the same.
Chris P, That sounds like a great solution. If you dont mind my copying, would you please email some pictures to dbryant61@***.net?
Thanks!
Chris M, Because of the bend, if I flip the mounts around, the dimension is the same. No, I am not totally confused; I get it. If you look at the mounts end-on, the flat part on the bottom is centered on the vetical part above, so either way you flip them, the dimension is the same.
Chris P, That sounds like a great solution. If you dont mind my copying, would you please email some pictures to dbryant61@***.net?
Thanks!
#5
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Don, I'm not sure if it's allowed but someone here knotched their tunnel to allow the seat sit lower. I have an aluminum seat and angled the bottom of both sides to have the seat fit better. The bottom if the seat is bolted directly to the floor. My rails have been cut off as well.
#6
Burning Brakes
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Hey Boss man. My BBSs are so pimp!!! Thanks for the data, but I am going with Chris Ps solution. He sent me pics and its the setup I need. I am already a little tentative about all of the cutting and welding I am already doing. My butt will be about 2 inches off the floor, which is probably 4 inches below where it was before. You coming to NASA in 2 weeks?
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#8
Burning Brakes
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John,
I have good info from Chris P, and will be installing and welding this weekend. Please tell me seat type, side mount type, and send me pics if you have them.
Thanks!
I have good info from Chris P, and will be installing and welding this weekend. Please tell me seat type, side mount type, and send me pics if you have them.
Thanks!
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No fun for me for awhile. Still need to make somoe money. ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
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Hey Boss man. My BBSs are so pimp!!! Thanks for the data, but I am going with Chris Ps solution. He sent me pics and its the setup I need. I am already a little tentative about all of the cutting and welding I am already doing. My butt will be about 2 inches off the floor, which is probably 4 inches below where it was before. You coming to NASA in 2 weeks?
#10
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Hey;
I don't remember, and I didn't take pics of the seat. Recaro I think, and Recaro slider... I think. I made the side brackets. I can tell you the seat was narrow. Another reason I like alloy seats is how narrow they are even in 17-18" widths.
I don't remember, and I didn't take pics of the seat. Recaro I think, and Recaro slider... I think. I made the side brackets. I can tell you the seat was narrow. Another reason I like alloy seats is how narrow they are even in 17-18" widths.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Thanks John.
Others: HELP!!! I did not heed Chris Ps advice. Using a spot-weld cutting bit, I drilled too agressively in the center tunnel when drilling out the seat shelf for the drivers seat, so on the left side of the tunnel. I drilled through the tunnel and immediately smelled gas. So:
1. Which line did I drill through?
2. How do I remove th gas from the tunnel?
3. How do I go about replacing the fuel line?
Thanks in advance.
Others: HELP!!! I did not heed Chris Ps advice. Using a spot-weld cutting bit, I drilled too agressively in the center tunnel when drilling out the seat shelf for the drivers seat, so on the left side of the tunnel. I drilled through the tunnel and immediately smelled gas. So:
1. Which line did I drill through?
2. How do I remove th gas from the tunnel?
3. How do I go about replacing the fuel line?
Thanks in advance.
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Sorry to hear it. If you're not comfortable working around fuel and don't have a good understanding of the parts involved and the layout of the car I wouldn't DIY this repair. The recommendation to take it to a shop is a good one. For the sake of everyone reading and future people searching for help, here's what I did.
Pinch off the line to the fuel pump under the tank (if the leak hasn't drained the tank already)
Disconnect and remove both lines. You don't know which one you hit and even if you did you may have nicked the other one along the way...so replace both. Identify return vs supply and mark the holes that they pass through the bulkhead and the firewall and the connections in the engine bay
Flush the tunnel with denatured alcohol.
Get new OEM fuel lines. This was a frustrating process because there have been a few part number changes and supercessions. It may require 2-3 exchanges and a few weeks of waiting to get the correct parts.
Finish all cutting and welding.
Install new lines. This is a tedious process, especially getting the firewall grommets back on.
Reconnect everything and check for leaks.
The lemonade in this whole thing is now you'll have new fuel lines which is major peace of mind.
Pinch off the line to the fuel pump under the tank (if the leak hasn't drained the tank already)
Disconnect and remove both lines. You don't know which one you hit and even if you did you may have nicked the other one along the way...so replace both. Identify return vs supply and mark the holes that they pass through the bulkhead and the firewall and the connections in the engine bay
Flush the tunnel with denatured alcohol.
Get new OEM fuel lines. This was a frustrating process because there have been a few part number changes and supercessions. It may require 2-3 exchanges and a few weeks of waiting to get the correct parts.
Finish all cutting and welding.
Install new lines. This is a tedious process, especially getting the firewall grommets back on.
Reconnect everything and check for leaks.
The lemonade in this whole thing is now you'll have new fuel lines which is major peace of mind.
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Thanks John.
Others: HELP!!! I did not heed Chris Ps advice. Using a spot-weld cutting bit, I drilled too agressively in the center tunnel when drilling out the seat shelf for the drivers seat, so on the left side of the tunnel. I drilled through the tunnel and immediately smelled gas. So:
1. Which line did I drill through?
2. How do I remove th gas from the tunnel?
3. How do I go about replacing the fuel line?
Thanks in advance.
Others: HELP!!! I did not heed Chris Ps advice. Using a spot-weld cutting bit, I drilled too agressively in the center tunnel when drilling out the seat shelf for the drivers seat, so on the left side of the tunnel. I drilled through the tunnel and immediately smelled gas. So:
1. Which line did I drill through?
2. How do I remove th gas from the tunnel?
3. How do I go about replacing the fuel line?
Thanks in advance.
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You contiue to re-inforce my selecticive laziness......
#15
Burning Brakes
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Pretty sure it is the return line. Cut it in the shift coupler opening and in the opening next to the gas pedal and removed it. Finished drilling spot welds and removed seat shelf. I am going to splice in a new piece of fuel line, and pressure test. Ill replace both lines the next time I have the engine out.