Help: Race Seat Install 74-89 911
#17
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Don - I didn't read all the other answers but maybe what I did will help though I use Kirkey Deluxe seats with (I think) stock sliders. I cut out all the stock mounts and welded in two 2" angle iron pieces. I then took two pieces of 2" flat stock (1/8") and ran them as diagonals, welding nuts in the correct mounting positions for my sliders, then boxed the whole thing in as a unit. Not sure if that makes sense but it's extremely strong and lowered my seat about 2" also..
#18
Burning Brakes
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Thanks Gary. I got some pics from Chris P that are very close to what I have planned. A am making a frame similar to yours but made of 1x1x0.120 square tube. It will have two main members running across the vehicle, and two running front/rear. The side-mount brackets will bolt directly to the two front/rear tubes. A fifth tube will span across these two for the sub-belt anchor. The bottoms of the side-mount brackets will be 1.5 inches off the floor pan. Pics to follow.
Boss, yes the lines are hard plastic. I am planning on replacing them with similar material and splicing with a short section of metal tubing with double hose clamps on each side. If I have trouble running them through the tunnel, I will run them on top of the tunnel with braided stainless line for protection. This is a short-term fix. I found a post on PelicanParts indicating that replacing the lines can be done with the engine in. Yea!
Chris P, Thanks for the advice. All of the gas (there was only a slight puddle at each end) has evaporated. I will complete all curring, welding, and grinding before any fuel lines go back in.
Boss, yes the lines are hard plastic. I am planning on replacing them with similar material and splicing with a short section of metal tubing with double hose clamps on each side. If I have trouble running them through the tunnel, I will run them on top of the tunnel with braided stainless line for protection. This is a short-term fix. I found a post on PelicanParts indicating that replacing the lines can be done with the engine in. Yea!
Chris P, Thanks for the advice. All of the gas (there was only a slight puddle at each end) has evaporated. I will complete all curring, welding, and grinding before any fuel lines go back in.
#19
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Got my fingers crossed for you my friend. ![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I took the fuel tank out of the S2 that I'm parting out yesterday and after an hour up on the lift the 2 of us were soaked in gas...Thank God it was warm enough to keep the doors open...
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I took the fuel tank out of the S2 that I'm parting out yesterday and after an hour up on the lift the 2 of us were soaked in gas...Thank God it was warm enough to keep the doors open...
#20
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Geez Don;
You're the first person that's ever done that.
Personally, I'd take the opportuniity to run the lines outside the tunnel permanently. Track cars need things fooled with more often than street cars, and dealing with those lines in the tunnel can be a real PITA.
You're the first person that's ever done that.
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Last edited by RedlineMan; 02-08-2009 at 07:08 PM.
#22
Burning Brakes
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Eddie, Thanks for the well-wishes. Ive done my research and thought it through. The fuel return line will not be a big deal.
Chris, That is great news. As you suggested, I will get all cutting, welding and grinding done before replacing the line.
John, I am not so sure. The stock lines are a bit of a PITA to install, but I do not think I want any extraneous junk on the floor. We will see.
Pics below of:
Seat shelves passenger side.
Seat shelves removed driver side.
Holes in fender well from old roll bar.
Hand-shaped plug for each hole (very tedious).
Holes pluged and welded.
Welds cleaned up.
I needed to do this to have a solid surface to weld roll cage feet to.
Chris, That is great news. As you suggested, I will get all cutting, welding and grinding done before replacing the line.
John, I am not so sure. The stock lines are a bit of a PITA to install, but I do not think I want any extraneous junk on the floor. We will see.
Pics below of:
Seat shelves passenger side.
Seat shelves removed driver side.
Holes in fender well from old roll bar.
Hand-shaped plug for each hole (very tedious).
Holes pluged and welded.
Welds cleaned up.
I needed to do this to have a solid surface to weld roll cage feet to.
#23
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Hey;
Just run the lines up the side of the tunnel on the passenger side. If you have concern about them being exposed or getting stepped on, make a small aluminum cover that screws into the side of the tunnel and covers them. On a race car, I much prefer to have things easily accessible, because it never fails that you will need to do something quickly, and.....
With them out of the tunnel, you are also now free to do other things on the tunnel with ease, like optimize your seat belt points (note this in my pic above).
Just run the lines up the side of the tunnel on the passenger side. If you have concern about them being exposed or getting stepped on, make a small aluminum cover that screws into the side of the tunnel and covers them. On a race car, I much prefer to have things easily accessible, because it never fails that you will need to do something quickly, and.....
With them out of the tunnel, you are also now free to do other things on the tunnel with ease, like optimize your seat belt points (note this in my pic above).
#25
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Hey;
I would be tempted to use steel, if you can find it that large. Braided SS always works. That is about as "vulnerable" as I would want it to be if exposed inside the cabin. Either of those choices is never likely to fail under any circumstance.
I would be tempted to use steel, if you can find it that large. Braided SS always works. That is about as "vulnerable" as I would want it to be if exposed inside the cabin. Either of those choices is never likely to fail under any circumstance.