18' open trailer needs tire rack help
#33
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From Accelerator ( a nifty set-up indeed):
"Please note the little aluminum plate and cinching collar that keeps the tires in place, no matter how many or few there are. If you use the correct diameter through-tubing, they will work. Available from Trailex.
Forget who made the fuel jug caddies but will search old receipts if important. Allows me to transport 24 extra gallons of fuel. You could have triples made but 24 plus a full tank is enough to get me through a DE day."
"Please note the little aluminum plate and cinching collar that keeps the tires in place, no matter how many or few there are. If you use the correct diameter through-tubing, they will work. Available from Trailex.
Forget who made the fuel jug caddies but will search old receipts if important. Allows me to transport 24 extra gallons of fuel. You could have triples made but 24 plus a full tank is enough to get me through a DE day."
#34
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#35
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I'm wondering if the weight of the tires and rack at the front of the trailer will add enough tongue weight to allow me to move my car back some as I will need to in order to fit the rack in a low position.
#36
I suspect it will if you design it properly. My car runs up under my tires if you look at the picture someone kindly posted for me. With that configuration you shouldn't have to move the car as far back. But then the question becomes how low is low and where does your car ride now with relation to where the exact location you plan for your rack.
#37
I'm wondering if the weight of the tires and rack at the front of the trailer will add enough tongue weight to allow me to move my car back some as I will need to in order to fit the rack in a low position.
#38
Featherlite actually makes a tire rack of its own. Very nicely done. You might want to contact your Featherlite dealer.
#39
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When I added an 8 tire rack across the front (flush with the front, not over the tongue) my car moved back quite a bit. I can check my notes but I think it was around 12". The further forward they are (like jpk's) the more you can push your car back. My car does not tuck under my rack (featherlite 17'6")
The photo below is the design I am modeling mine after but instead of the rack being in front of the trailer mine will behind the front edge. I would build it like the picture here but I'm afraid it would limit how sharply you could turn before the tires would hit your tow vehicle.
#40
make sure it's high enough to clear the tie downs and for you to get easy access to the d-rings.
if you make it high enough to clear the front bumper and not necessarily the headlights you'll gain several inches of fore-aft room to fudge.
if you make it high enough to clear the front bumper and not necessarily the headlights you'll gain several inches of fore-aft room to fudge.
#41
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#42
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Here's what I came up with. The pipes are 1 1/2" black steel, and that's just a standard flange. I cut and drilled the four bottom pieces from a hunk on steel bar that I had. I used an eye bolt for one thnking I'd need to strap the tires down with a ratchet strap, but I don't think it's necessary. No worries about the strength of the flanges; I can bear against them with all my might and they're plenty strong.
I thought the tires would have more of a tendency to tip side to side, but they don't; they're really stable just sitting there.
I could also drill a hole near the top of the pipe for a padlock to keep the wheels on the trailer.
These pipes are 24" long; two wheels are no problem. I could probably get a third on there with the snow tires, but it might be cutting it a bit close with wider tires. I think 36" pipes would be OK, and that'll let me get 6 on the rack, then I'd only need to find room for a couple more in the back of the truck.
All told it was $32 at home depot + the bar stock that I already had; say $10 more if I had to buy it.
BTW - It cost me $16 to find out that 2" black pipe has an OD just about 1/8" too large to fit through the center opening of a Porsche wheel.
I thought the tires would have more of a tendency to tip side to side, but they don't; they're really stable just sitting there.
I could also drill a hole near the top of the pipe for a padlock to keep the wheels on the trailer.
These pipes are 24" long; two wheels are no problem. I could probably get a third on there with the snow tires, but it might be cutting it a bit close with wider tires. I think 36" pipes would be OK, and that'll let me get 6 on the rack, then I'd only need to find room for a couple more in the back of the truck.
All told it was $32 at home depot + the bar stock that I already had; say $10 more if I had to buy it.
BTW - It cost me $16 to find out that 2" black pipe has an OD just about 1/8" too large to fit through the center opening of a Porsche wheel.