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Can New Hoosiers Be Heat Cycled on Public Roads ??

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Old 07-29-2008, 06:17 PM
  #16  
jerome951
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In talking w/ my tire guy, who also races semi-pro, he said you have to get them really hot on the first heat cycle (i.e. almost blue) to have any benefit, and they have to rest for at least 2 weeks.

If you have to run on them the next day it's not worth the effort and you should experience the joy of breaking in a sticker set on the track.
Old 07-29-2008, 06:18 PM
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2BWise
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Originally Posted by M758
I don't undertand the obsession with heat cycling on a DE car.


Really here is my take.

If heat cycling is SO important then have two sets of wheels and just use the first session of the next event to cycle them. If you don't have the $$ for two sets of wheels. Decide if you need Hoosiers or even need to bother heat cycling them.

If you only bring one set of R-tires to the track you are ARE compromising so just deal with it. If you NEED to heat cycle then do it right and do it on another set of wheels. Personally I never went to the track with out two sets of R tires just incase I damage a tire I would not have to go home. Even if there is on track tire support they may not have the tire size you need.

You know some times I find it so strange that some of you with really expensive cars and consumables seem to get so cheap in trying to use them. A few days ago was the "can I re use brake pads" thread and now "heat cycle on street". If you want to do things right you need to have the right gear. Two sets of tires, spare brake pads etc. If you can't afford the right spares then realize that you can't do it like the big boys. So learn to live with that and be done with it. Most of the big boys bring spares to make it easy to do all the right things. If you really want to do all the "racer tricks" yourself, but can't afford it change to something cheaper.

Nicely put. Do it right, or do it cheap. Having all the parts, spares, tools, etc is half the trouble of competing and cost. For DE what does it matter? You're not looking for 1/10s of a second and you're not going to gain lots of laps if you scrub them because you won't be running on the ragged edge of the tire's limit. It is possible to destroy a tire without a scrub cycle if you're running it 100+% potential on the first heat cycle.

If you're serious about lap times and are looking for the slightest edge then, yes, you should scrub the tires. I've worked with a dozen different tire engineers and everyone pushed scrubbing tires properly, particularly in the competition environment. Otherwise, I'm not sure of the obsession to run Hoosiers at DE. Toyos, Nittos, and BFGs are cheaper and last longer. The performance isn't quite equal but it shouldn't matter.
Old 07-31-2008, 01:55 AM
  #18  
dan212
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Not if you don't want to go to jail...... They have to get HOT and you can't do that on the road without committing a serious felony. The lives of others.

Heat cycling does make a difference in overall tire wear and ability to weather MULTIPLE heat cycles. The tire really needs to cure at least 24 hours after a serious hot session. If you cord your tires before they are heat cycled, it doesn't really matter.

I tow a tire trailer with two sets behind my GT3 - talk about obscene - so that I can heat cycle a set of fresh tires and also have a beat set for when my prime set cords or cycles out (or for a track that just eats tires).

I just bought a durometer to see if I track the effect of heat cycles.


Originally Posted by George3
I'm in a jam and need to get a set of brand new R6 Hoosiers heat cycled before an event.

Is there any way to get a decent heat cycling on a public highway (safely of course) with hard braking /throttle /hard braking, etc. ??

Let them cool 24-hours, trailer the car to the track and then use them for an entire 3-day weekend?

Or, am I just kidding myself, and that driving 7/10th's for 15 minutes on the track is the only true method to heat cycle the tires.

Last edited by dan212; 07-31-2008 at 02:22 AM.
Old 07-31-2008, 08:07 AM
  #19  
George3
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Originally Posted by M758
I don't undertand the obsession with heat cycling on a DE car.

You know some times I find it so strange that some of you with really expensive cars and consumables seem to get so cheap in trying to use them. A few days ago was the "can I re use brake pads" thread and now "heat cycle on street". If you want to do things right you need to have the right gear. Two sets of tires, spare brake pads etc. If you can't afford the right spares then realize that you can't do it like the big boys. So learn to live with that and be done with it. Most of the big boys bring spares to make it easy to do all the right things. If you really want to do all the "racer tricks" yourself, but can't afford it change to something cheaper.
Yes, you guys are really diggin me little deep. If you read my original post (which you probably didn't) I specifically said "I'm in a jam and need to get a set of brand new R6 Hoosiers heat cycled before an event."

This has nothing to do with the fact that I'm cheap, only that I don't have the time to heat cycle them on the track before my next event. I would certainly do it on the track if I had the time to do so.

You should read the OP's opening thread before you put your pen to paper, instead of just reading all the other posters.
Old 07-31-2008, 08:31 AM
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disasterman
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That's the best part of Rennlist, everybody jumps in your sh**t without a careful read.

It is my understanding that heat cycling properly extends the useable life of the tire. I would try a parking lot figure 8, it sounds like the next best thing.
Old 07-31-2008, 09:30 AM
  #21  
PedroNole
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Originally Posted by John H
I personally don't think it really makes a difference whether you heat cycle or not.
+1 Unless you're going to do an endurance race (greater than 6 hours) and then, I do a heat cycle and put them away for at least 48 hours to cure. The longevity difference is VERY noticable. However, after the tires go on the car we run them until they go away (depending on outside temp, track, etc, anywhere from 3-5 hours) and then we throw away.

If you're doing normal DE's, the grip is probably fine by the second lap and the tires will last several heat cycles depending largely on how hard you drive and not whether you heat cycled them when you bought them.
Old 07-31-2008, 09:32 AM
  #22  
George3
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Thanks disasterman. I'm gonna forget all the short cut ideas and just take them to the track and properly heat cycle them on the "last" day, so they are ready for the "next" event. I'll drive on my one of my "three" sets of tires and wheels this weekend.
Old 07-31-2008, 10:03 AM
  #23  
Gary R.
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George - I would be more concerned with having the maximum camber set up to fully make use of the Hoosier's contact patch than a heat cycle. Also be sure to mark your rims and tires to check for tire rotation on the rims, a problem some have had with them on GT3's. I do a heat cycle with a minimum of 48 hours between uses IF it's convenient. I have run them new with stickers on non-stop for 40 heat cycles on my car with no issues also.
Old 07-31-2008, 10:22 AM
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Larry Herman
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George, I don't put much stock in heat cycling. I'm sure that there are some tires where it can make a difference, and others where it will have no effect; it all depends on the compound. On thing that should be pretty much agreed upon is that if it helps, it is only with longevity, not ultimate grip over the first 6~8 heat cycles. Since there has not been any published testing on this, everything is just word of mouth though. My advice? Go run them and enjoy them.
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Old 07-31-2008, 10:38 AM
  #25  
George3
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Larry and Gary. . .
Good advice . . . thanks !
Old 10-02-2008, 09:13 AM
  #26  
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So is the 'heat cycling' offered by the vendors worth the money if you can't do a proper heat cycle at the track for whatever reason?
Old 10-02-2008, 09:45 AM
  #27  
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All they do at the Tire Rack is to run the tire on a roller for awhile to warm it up, from what I've understood. You could accomplish that with a run down the highway, even at legal speed.
Old 10-02-2008, 08:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by George3
Yes, you guys are really diggin me little deep. If you read my original post (which you probably didn't) I specifically said "I'm in a jam and need to get a set of brand new R6 Hoosiers heat cycled before an event."

This has nothing to do with the fact that I'm cheap, only that I don't have the time to heat cycle them on the track before my next event. I would certainly do it on the track if I had the time to do so.

You should read the OP's opening thread before you put your pen to paper, instead of just reading all the other posters.
I think the ''do it right, or do it cheap'' line of thought speaks to having three or four sets of tires (one new heat cycled ready to race set, a one weekend old set, a more used / nearing cord set which should be replaced with a fresh set to heat cycle) so that the heat cycling becomes part of maintaining the set of tires. Effectively you may be heat cycling tires weeks or months before the next race because you may not be sure when that will be. You simply maintain a fresh heat cycled set as part of the inventory. Whenever I found myself in a jam and needed a fresh heat cycled set it was because I waited to shell out and got caught being cheap. The original post spoke of an event, which I presume to be a DE and not a race environment, so heat cycling shouldn't be that critical.
Old 10-02-2008, 08:57 PM
  #29  
dmoffitt
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in-before-the "but officer I was just heat cycling my tires" didn't-get-me-out-of-a-ticket thread
Old 10-03-2008, 12:40 AM
  #30  
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honestly, you dont need to heat cycle them... I never really heat cycle mine (unless there was an actual race) and I seem to move just fine.


-Drew


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