George3

I'm in a jam and need to get a set of brand new R6 Hoosiers heat cycled before an event.

Is there any way to get a decent heat cycling on a public highway (safely of course) with hard braking /throttle /hard braking, etc. ??

Let them cool 24-hours, trailer the car to the track and then use them for an entire 3-day weekend?

Or, am I just kidding myself, and that driving 7/10th's for 15 minutes on the track is the only true method to heat cycle the tires.

MJR911

Kidding yourself unless you really want to put those on the roads around you in danger... or you live close to the 'Ring.

George3

I wouldn't put anyone in danger.
It would be a late night excursion.

ltc

Be very careful of 'std' road debris/hazards (nails, screws, etc).

ltc

IIRC, TireRack offered a heat cycle service when you bought new race tires?

lawjdc

Why don't you just order heat-cycled R6's from TireRack?

Bob Rouleau

Find a big parking lot and do 15 minutes of figure 8's. Be prepared to get sick though.

kabel_Boxster

While not ideal, if it's all you can do you, could just try the hwy method, take a 75-100 mile round trip in the heat of the day, then take them off immediately and let them cool for a minimum of 24 hours. Or find a lot where you can do some skid-pad like driving to get the tires up to temp. No sliding though, that could lead to overheating the tire rather than an initial heat cycle.

Like others have said, i would be more afraid of road debris than anything else,

disasterman

The Initial Run Heat Cycle

R6 Roadrace

The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of no more than 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate.



During the initial run-in process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 4-7 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 7-10 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible.

Per Hoosier

Jarez Mifkin

Tirerack's 'heat cycling' is poo. It doesn't really work.

ltc

FWIW, I've never really heat cycled tires.
My son has probably gone thru 100's of tires on his kart; we've tried heat cycle vs not, stickers vs scrub....never really noticed a difference in longevity......however, I realize heat cycling can soon find itself in the 'Pantheon' of Rennlist Racing/DE topics along with:

oil viscosity
H&N restraints
tow vehicles

dp35

I have a similar question - what if the cool down period is not 24 hrs, but more like 1 hour? I know this is not ideal, but would the tires be any good in the very next session, or would it damage them?

eclou

I don't understand why the subject of running Hoosiers on the street oftentimes resembles dropping a turd in the punchbowl. Apart from road debris and standing water, there is no reason to think a Hoosier is going to put your life at risk at 70mph on the freeway vs a 1.5g off camber turn at 130mph on track.

John H

I personally don't think it really makes a difference whether you heat cycle or not.

M758

I don't undertand the obsession with heat cycling on a DE car.


Really here is my take.

If heat cycling is SO important then have two sets of wheels and just use the first session of the next event to cycle them. If you don't have the $$ for two sets of wheels. Decide if you need Hoosiers or even need to bother heat cycling them.

If you only bring one set of R-tires to the track you are ARE compromising so just deal with it. If you NEED to heat cycle then do it right and do it on another set of wheels. Personally I never went to the track with out two sets of R tires just incase I damage a tire I would not have to go home. Even if there is on track tire support they may not have the tire size you need.

You know some times I find it so strange that some of you with really expensive cars and consumables seem to get so cheap in trying to use them. A few days ago was the "can I re use brake pads" thread and now "heat cycle on street". If you want to do things right you need to have the right gear. Two sets of tires, spare brake pads etc. If you can't afford the right spares then realize that you can't do it like the big boys. So learn to live with that and be done with it. Most of the big boys bring spares to make it easy to do all the right things. If you really want to do all the "racer tricks" yourself, but can't afford it change to something cheaper.

I race a 944 spec because it is cheap. I can afford to have 3 sets of wheels since each set costs about $200 so 12 wheels costs less than what 1 of your's costs. I can get two sets of tires for what is just more than 1 set of you tires and those sets will last me all year long. One set of pads costs me less than one tire so I can afford to have a spare set on the truck. So while could afford a faster car to run at the track I could not afford the level of prep and spares I routinely run now. Those of you that choose to run expensive cars with expensive consumables remember that many 944 guys could run more expenisve cars, but chose not to allow for more races at a more competitive level than could be achieve with the same money on a more expensive car.

sorry if I got a little OT on this.