Gary R.

Did you guys by the "Power Slot" rotors or the stock rotors that Diversified cuts small slots into, then cryo? Too late for me, they (stock/slotted) are on the way.. and the extra $100 is spit in the ocean at this point.

pat056

I put frozen slotted on my 1993 RSA in January and they have run fine to date. I have AP's on the front and frozen slotted on the rear. Granted the rears are much easier. I've done 4 events on them so far, 3 at CMP. No sign of wear yet.
I also just changed to Pagid Yellows on all 4 wheels. I'll let ya know how it goes after this w/e at CMP. I have been running Oranges, so I'm hoping to see a big difference.
I've run Pagid Orange, Black, PF 97, and now the yellows. So far the PF's are the best pads IMHO.

pat056

Gary,
I got the Powerslots from CDOC.

Gary R.

Pat - I bought mine direct from www.frozenrotors.com , SC specific info here (65-83, models with vented disc) - http://www.frozenrotors.com/search/i...electedIndex=2

I didn't buy frozen powerslots, I got the stock rotors that were CNC cut and then frozen.. the Powerslots have much bigger slots.

dbryant61

Gary, you know I'm just a DE-er (so far), but I heard several say OE rotors are just fine. My Power Slots cracked after 8or 9 track days, and I get about six events (15-18 days) out of OE rotors.

Fluid - I alternate flushing a bottle of ATE Blue and ATE200 before each event. I hear you guys saying it sux, but I have never had a pedal go soft. Too easy on my brakes?

pat056

Don
I use ATE also and have never had an issue. My car weighs 2700 #'s with me in it and all I do is race it, so I feel sure I rate high on agreesive brake use.
I wouldn't think you're too easy on the brakes if your going through rotors that fast. By not boiling the fluid, it sounds like your braking correctly.
My front rotors are 2 years old and only have cosmetic cracks. My Powerslots look new.

Gary R.

I must not be saying it clearly. I do NOT have PowerSlot rotors, frozen or standard. Frozen Rotors takes OEM Porsche rotors and cuts a series of 3 small "slots" (look to be about 1-1.5" ovals) in a pattern similar to the flow of the PS fully slotted rotors. They are CNC cut to the factory specified wear depth, then the rotors are cryo'd. Check out the pictures on the site and you can see the difference.

As for the fluid, GS210 offers close to 100F higher boiling point for almost the same cost, was a good insurance to get. My only beef with ATE blue is the way it stained all my bleeder hoses and reservoir..

FredC

that is what i used.

The relative size of the calipers to rotor doesn't make the gas evacuation feature of slotted worthwhile like it does on big brake kits. And then the cryo process does not extend the life of the rotors sufficiently to pay for itself. My 2 cents.

jaydubya

Amen. That stuff is magic.

Stock Zimmerman rotors for me work fine. With PFC97 pads.

911pcars

I agree. The best seems to be Castrol SRF. The big difference is its wet boiling spec:
Castrol SRF
DOT 4
Dry, 590ºF (310ºC)
Wet, 518ºF (270ºC)
Compatible with other fluids: Yes
$64/liter

As for GS10, the specs I have are pretty close to Motul RBF.
GS610 Brake Fluid
DOT 4
610°F (321°C)
421°F (216°C)
Compatible with other fluids: Yes
$40/liter

Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600
DOT 4
594ºF (312ºC)
421ºF (216ºC)
Compatible with other fluids: Yes
$15/half liter

And when boiling specs are suspiciously similar, one could assume they come from the same or similar 50 gallon drum. E.g. Neo Super DOT 16
DOT 4
610°F (322°C)
421°F (216°C)
Compatible with other fluids: Yes
$13/12 oz.

Sherwood
http://www.seinesystems.com/BrakeFluids.htm

smlporsche

Don-
I went to cryoed solid rotors last year when I upgraded to the Big Blacks (928 S4 set up) and I just changed my pads (PFC 97) for the second time. My rotors look great and I should be able to go another season on them where as standard rotors were cooked after half a season.
For me the cryoed rotors are actually cheaper in the long run. I went with the solid because I had cracked the drilled rotors on seveeral occassions and thought I would see what these were like since I don't run much in the rain. So far the "outgassing" has been a mute point and I feel that the braking has been improved because you're able to use 100% of the pad area to stop with.

I'm running the ATE Blue but will be switching as I have cooked the fluid on occassion although my brake cooling setup has really minimized that in the last year as you can see below.

ltc

It's all about wet boiling spec

dbryant61

Eddie, and you wonder why I can't hang with you. My rear pads are about the size of bicycle brakes.

You guys running SRF, how often are you flushing your brake system? I flush mine the weekend before every event. I do not believe mine ever get enough water in them to be saturated and get down to the "wet" boiling point. I check pedal with left foot on most straights just to be safe, but have never boiled the fluid.

jaydubya

Before switching to SRF, I used ATE Type 200 and/or Motul. I pretty much needed to bleed after every session, but I usually waited for 2-3 sessions. With SRF I can go 2 track days (say 8 sessions) before needing to bleed.

As soon as your brake fluid leaves the unopened container, it is pretty much governed by the wet boiling point.