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DE tire excessive edge wear question

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Old 01-23-2008, 08:54 PM
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kw_1055
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
Driven hard I got 2000km (about 1200 mi) on a set of PS2s driven exclusively on the track.

Don't ask the lifespan of Cups.
How does the Toyo compares?
Old 01-23-2008, 08:58 PM
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Crazy Canuck
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Originally Posted by kw_1055
How does the Toyo compares?
Probably better.

The set of PS2s that lasted 2000km wore out the driver's side left (lots of right hand turns). More camber corrected that problem.

More negative camber will make the car very responsive but somewhat darty. Something to keep in mind.

If you really like DEs consider getting a track only car. No use butchering your cab and making it uncomfortable on the street.
Old 01-23-2008, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kw_1055
I know that neg. camber will wear the inside of the tire more on the street. I just like to know if it'll shorten the life of the tire by how much? Is 10% a reasonable guess?

Pyrometer is a great idea. Do you like the surface measure type or do you use the "poke" in the tread type?
Of course it all depends on how much camber you're talking about, but my guess is that 10% is low (because the improved handling will tempt you to drive more aggressively every day).

I've seen the "poke" type break, so I use the infrared type.
Old 01-23-2008, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ervtx
Of course it all depends on how much camber you're talking about, but my guess is that 10% is low (because the improved handling will tempt you to drive more aggressively every day).

I've seen the "poke" type break, so I use the infrared type.
If you drive enough on the track you'll be replacing tires long before the inside edges wear out.
Old 01-23-2008, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
No use butchering your cab and making it uncomfortable on the street.
From the other side of the fence.... No use trying to make your cab perform on the track unless you're willing to make modifications.
Old 01-23-2008, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ervtx
From the other side of the fence.... No use trying to make your cab perform on the track unless you're willing to make modifications.
... and compromises
Old 01-23-2008, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
Probably better.

The set of PS2s that lasted 2000km wore out the driver's side left (lots of right hand turns). More camber corrected that problem.

More negative camber will make the car very responsive but somewhat darty. Something to keep in mind.

If you really like DEs consider getting a track only car. No use butchering your cab and making it uncomfortable on the street.
I can see myself heading down that slippery slope already.
I really enjoy DE and the car is very capable.
But now I am looking into tires, camber, suspension etc.
Soon, I may want to time myself and time trial is a whole new ballgame. They want cage, seat and 6 point belts etc. which is difficult to mount in my cab.
Somebody stop me before I get too deep.........
Old 01-23-2008, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
... and compromises
Not being able to drive home from the track with the top down would indeed be a compromise!

But before we start yet another cab/coupe thread or dismiss the many Boxster DE'ers, on this we should easily agree...

No other marquis navigates this particular compromise better than Porsche...
Old 01-23-2008, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kw_1055
Somebody stop me before I get too deep.........
Too late.

Old 01-23-2008, 10:35 PM
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[QUOTE=ervtx;5020256]Too late.


Old 01-23-2008, 11:05 PM
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KW - I have been tracking a 997S for about 1.5 years now. Prior to that I tracked a 996GT3.

For the 997S, getting the 997GT3 control arms put in on the fronts is one of the "must do's" for this car on the track. Best front negative I camber I could get before the control arms was -0.8. I know run -2.5 on the fronts and -2.0 on the rears (nothing needs to be done to the rears to get that camber). My drive to work is quite short so I am not worried about this type of camber for daily use. This set-up totally alleviated the tire wear issue and the control arms give you a bit wider stance on the front of the car for more stability. Another important mod, and cheap, would be GT3 air ducts for the front brakes. After that a good racing brake fluid, harness bar and harnesses, a neck restraint, and the 996GT3 club seat and you are good to go. I have done all of this and am now completely satisfied with the car. If you want to do more, you should start seriously thinking about a dedicated racer.
Old 01-24-2008, 01:57 AM
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Thanks.
Look like I need a trip to the shop soon.
Old 01-24-2008, 02:19 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by kw_1055
It is Thunderhill. Good call.
I also tested 2 to 4 pounds higher on the passenger side but only after a long session.
So I bleed it back down to even after that run.
Should I keep it higher to lessen the roll of the tire?
where you at THill with PCA diablo?
you are in east bay, do yourself a GIANT favor.
drive the car to tony at tcdesignfab.com. tell him exactly how you drive, how much track time etc... he will set your car up with less tire wear and faster lap time.

based on your track mileage, anything over 2deg camber will really chew up your tire. in fact 1.5F/2.5R is about all you need. and if you add GT3 control arm or shims to get that much camber, i bet your stock suspension wont be able to optimize the camber/usage. there are too many variables in suspension set up. rather than having a bunch of us guessing, you need a suspension pro to figure it out. i have tried to dial in kassumal setting, track setting on manual... those are just starting points. HOW YOU DRIVE, is what's important. my car for example, i have some very experienced drives driving it, one tells me it's neutral, one find it lose, one thinks it pushes .....
Old 01-24-2008, 06:23 AM
  #29  
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I know that neg. camber will wear the inside of the tire more on the street. I just like to know if it'll shorten the life of the tire by how much? Is 10% a reasonable guess?
It's actually NOT the extra negative camber that drastically increases your inside tire wear - it's TOE that does it. When you dump in more negative camber, usually your toe setting changes too. Add in camber first, then adjust your toe.

Looks like ECS has it figured out with the GT3 arms and ducts.
Old 01-24-2008, 07:13 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
What Bob says is true. I experienced what is happening to you before I added more camber.

You can install the GT3 bits as some guys have done but my mechanic elongated the adjustment area by drilling it out (proper terminology escapes me at the moment) to allow for more negative camber. It worked.
They call it "Slotting" around hear


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