Calabogie Motorsports Park Video
#31
Burning Brakes
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#32
Nordschleife Master
One thing I did notice this year was that when I was running MPSC during the summer, the more I slide the car (with a loose setup), the faster it was (both laptimes and tirewear) with a best of 2:24.4. With the Victoracers, my best laps (a 2:24.6 set earlier in the day of the first video) were done with a mild understeer setup and very little sliding. So is sliding faster or not? I've seen John drive. He's fast and he slides a fair bit, and others here that are fast have also mentioned they slide the car a lot. Is it just a factor that MPSC like to slide and Victoracers don't (tire temps are 170's in the front and 180's in the rear in both cases). How much do you slide?
Can ya tell the winter is starting to get to me? I've even started modifying my 4 year old's PowerWheels pickup.
Can ya tell the winter is starting to get to me? I've even started modifying my 4 year old's PowerWheels pickup.
MPSCs require you to get them hot. The hotter they are, the better they stick, assuming you keep the pressures down. Whenever I hear people complain about MPSCs, I know they aren't getting them hot enough. And I don't think people are actually sliding the car, just generating good slip angle. Real sliding is slow.
#33
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MPSCs require you to get them hot. The hotter they are, the better they stick, assuming you keep the pressures down. Whenever I hear people complain about MPSCs, I know they aren't getting them hot enough. And I don't think people are actually sliding the car, just generating good slip angle. Real sliding is slow.
#34
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Hey;
- Colin is right. MPSCs are very tough to get warm on anything but a heavy car. I thought they worked pretty well, but did not represent a good value for my lighter car. They wear much faster than the Toyos, and don't grip any better for my use. If my car were heavier, I'd likely think a bit differently.
- I am aware it's a balance between getting good lines where the car and geometry work, and travelling the sortest distance. I might play with a tighter line exiting Temptation next Summer.
- Reprogramming your brain to go deep is really tough, especially so when you are a total spatial driver. The only way is to revert to being a conscious driver, use references, and just keep going further until you soil yourself. Then... go farther yet! I'm not sure Jacques is a good place to practice. Turn 1 at the Glen gives a lot more ooops room!
One thing that is usually left out of the equation is turning in a bit earlier than normal. The early apex is cancelled by the brake-induced drift and rotation. This also gives you more room to straighten and brake if you goof.
- I was doing OK with my Track Jones until you posted that video...
- Colin is right. MPSCs are very tough to get warm on anything but a heavy car. I thought they worked pretty well, but did not represent a good value for my lighter car. They wear much faster than the Toyos, and don't grip any better for my use. If my car were heavier, I'd likely think a bit differently.
- I am aware it's a balance between getting good lines where the car and geometry work, and travelling the sortest distance. I might play with a tighter line exiting Temptation next Summer.
- Reprogramming your brain to go deep is really tough, especially so when you are a total spatial driver. The only way is to revert to being a conscious driver, use references, and just keep going further until you soil yourself. Then... go farther yet! I'm not sure Jacques is a good place to practice. Turn 1 at the Glen gives a lot more ooops room!
One thing that is usually left out of the equation is turning in a bit earlier than normal. The early apex is cancelled by the brake-induced drift and rotation. This also gives you more room to straighten and brake if you goof.
- I was doing OK with my Track Jones until you posted that video...
#35
Burning Brakes
SJanes,
Great thread w/ lots of good input from Colin and John. Take my comments with a grain of salt because I have never driven 'bogie. When I first watched the video, my first impression was that you are very smooth, but then reading other's comments about shifting and braking, I think you are simply taking it too easy, especially with a G50 trans. I have an '80 SC (we have talked before because you have the same front spoiler as I). Even with the 915 trans, I upshift much quicker than you are. I do not think that leaves a lot on the table, but it does leave something.
If you are carrying as much speed as you can from apex through track out (You can probably achieve this if you modify your line per Colin and John), the best place to save time is everything before apex. Brake later, brake harder, and carry 10-15% of your breaking into turn-in (trail-breaking). I think if you do this at every major breaking zone, you will take seconds off, not just tenths.
Regarding your difficulty in shifting due to chassis flex, you may be able to fix this with engine and trans mounts. Step one would be Porsche Sports. Step two would be WEVO Semi-solids. I have the WEVOs, and noticed very little added noise and vibration. My car is on the street as weel as DE. Easy project. You just need a good jack and jackstands and a socket set. Once I did this, I have much less difficulty shifting when turning.
Great thread w/ lots of good input from Colin and John. Take my comments with a grain of salt because I have never driven 'bogie. When I first watched the video, my first impression was that you are very smooth, but then reading other's comments about shifting and braking, I think you are simply taking it too easy, especially with a G50 trans. I have an '80 SC (we have talked before because you have the same front spoiler as I). Even with the 915 trans, I upshift much quicker than you are. I do not think that leaves a lot on the table, but it does leave something.
If you are carrying as much speed as you can from apex through track out (You can probably achieve this if you modify your line per Colin and John), the best place to save time is everything before apex. Brake later, brake harder, and carry 10-15% of your breaking into turn-in (trail-breaking). I think if you do this at every major breaking zone, you will take seconds off, not just tenths.
Regarding your difficulty in shifting due to chassis flex, you may be able to fix this with engine and trans mounts. Step one would be Porsche Sports. Step two would be WEVO Semi-solids. I have the WEVOs, and noticed very little added noise and vibration. My car is on the street as weel as DE. Easy project. You just need a good jack and jackstands and a socket set. Once I did this, I have much less difficulty shifting when turning.
#36
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SJanes,
Great thread w/ lots of good input from Colin and John. Take my comments with a grain of salt because I have never driven 'bogie. When I first watched the video, my first impression was that you are very smooth, but then reading other's comments about shifting and braking, I think you are simply taking it too easy, especially with a G50 trans. I have an '80 SC (we have talked before because you have the same front spoiler as I). Even with the 915 trans, I upshift much quicker than you are. I do not think that leaves a lot on the table, but it does leave something.
If you are carrying as much speed as you can from apex through track out (You can probably achieve this if you modify your line per Colin and John), the best place to save time is everything before apex. Brake later, brake harder, and carry 10-15% of your breaking into turn-in (trail-breaking). I think if you do this at every major breaking zone, you will take seconds off, not just tenths.
Regarding your difficulty in shifting due to chassis flex, you may be able to fix this with engine and trans mounts. Step one would be Porsche Sports. Step two would be WEVO Semi-solids. I have the WEVOs, and noticed very little added noise and vibration. My car is on the street as weel as DE. Easy project. You just need a good jack and jackstands and a socket set. Once I did this, I have much less difficulty shifting when turning.
Great thread w/ lots of good input from Colin and John. Take my comments with a grain of salt because I have never driven 'bogie. When I first watched the video, my first impression was that you are very smooth, but then reading other's comments about shifting and braking, I think you are simply taking it too easy, especially with a G50 trans. I have an '80 SC (we have talked before because you have the same front spoiler as I). Even with the 915 trans, I upshift much quicker than you are. I do not think that leaves a lot on the table, but it does leave something.
If you are carrying as much speed as you can from apex through track out (You can probably achieve this if you modify your line per Colin and John), the best place to save time is everything before apex. Brake later, brake harder, and carry 10-15% of your breaking into turn-in (trail-breaking). I think if you do this at every major breaking zone, you will take seconds off, not just tenths.
Regarding your difficulty in shifting due to chassis flex, you may be able to fix this with engine and trans mounts. Step one would be Porsche Sports. Step two would be WEVO Semi-solids. I have the WEVOs, and noticed very little added noise and vibration. My car is on the street as weel as DE. Easy project. You just need a good jack and jackstands and a socket set. Once I did this, I have much less difficulty shifting when turning.
I have the wevo semi-solids, but there is no "sport" replacement for the G50 mounts. Maybe time to do the solid transmission mounts.
looks like I need to put together a good trail braking development strategy for 08.
#39
Burning Brakes
To those of you with cabin fever, move south, or at least get a second home down here. I was at VIR last January for a test and tune. It was mid-30s in the AM and warmed to high 50s by 2 pm. No rain, no snow. Took a while for the tires to warm up, but ten drivers had a great winter-blues-cabin-fever-busting day.
SJ, if you go in too hot often enough, you'll figure out the trail braking. There really is no other choice if you want to preserve you and your car. Pick a good turn with some run-off room. You may loop it, but "if you spin often enough, eventually you'll find the apex". :^)
looks like I need to put together a good trail braking development strategy for 08.
#40
Nordschleife Master
yeah, on my 2750lb, 230hp 911, it take a lot of work and get and keep MPSC hot enough (173 front, 185 rear). That's why I use the Kumho in the fall months here. You can see in the viper video that I miss a few of the apexs on the first lap since I was on cold MPSC and trying to stay with the Viper. I'm going to try the Nitto's next season to see what they are like.
#41
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yeah, on my 2750lb, 230hp 911, it take a lot of work and get and keep MPSC hot enough (173 front, 185 rear). That's why I use the Kumho in the fall months here. You can see in the viper video that I miss a few of the apexs on the first lap since I was on cold MPSC and trying to stay with the Viper. I'm going to try the Nitto's next season to see what they are like.
#42
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It's the only way. Even then, it is really hard to go back to being a conscious driver again. You almost have to start over and do the entire braking routine from scratch. Pick your corner for safety with good runoff and such. 1st time - full threshold brake from X till you stop, and take note of where that is. Do the math and you have the theroetical distance it takes you to slow to cornering speed.
Now move in closer each time until you are just ready to lift off the brake at your turn in point. I'd be inclined to then repeat this for the rest of the session, cementing the visual reference points in your mind. Next session after your warm up, push your brake point out by a car length at a time. Use your reference point, and wait a breath.
I'd pick 3 at Mosport, 8 at LCMT, and probably Quarry One at Calabogie. Those are the only ones with enough runoff (maybe) to be comfortable
Oh... make it a real turn; Stop lifting for 4Left too!
#43
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200 I would have to light the car on fire to get them to 200. That's probably why sliding them around was faster since I was still below the optimal heat range.
#45
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SJ, if you go in too hot often enough, you'll figure out the trail braking. There really is no other choice if you want to preserve you and your car. Pick a good turn with some run-off room. You may loop it, but "if you spin often enough, eventually you'll find the apex". :^)
Yep;
It's the only way. Even then, it is really hard to go back to being a conscious driver again. You almost have to start over and do the entire braking routine from scratch. Pick your corner for safety with good runoff and such. 1st time - full threshold brake from X till you stop, and take note of where that is. Do the math and you have the theroetical distance it takes you to slow to cornering speed.
Now move in closer each time until you are just ready to lift off the brake at your turn in point. I'd be inclined to then repeat this for the rest of the session, cementing the visual reference points in your mind. Next session after your warm up, push your brake point out by a car length at a time. Use your reference point, and wait a breath.
It's the only way. Even then, it is really hard to go back to being a conscious driver again. You almost have to start over and do the entire braking routine from scratch. Pick your corner for safety with good runoff and such. 1st time - full threshold brake from X till you stop, and take note of where that is. Do the math and you have the theroetical distance it takes you to slow to cornering speed.
Now move in closer each time until you are just ready to lift off the brake at your turn in point. I'd be inclined to then repeat this for the rest of the session, cementing the visual reference points in your mind. Next session after your warm up, push your brake point out by a car length at a time. Use your reference point, and wait a breath.
I did "4Left" flat out once and it scared the crap out of me, I thought I was going end up parked on top of the quarry. It took me a while to realize that I need to use a bit of the curb at the bottom of "Spoon" or the car will be unstable going over the hump before "4Left".
Last edited by sjanes; 01-22-2008 at 10:59 PM. Reason: I just can't spell