callen2

Third Post-I have seen many posts on this topic but was wondering the difference in using and cost of a steel versus aluminum open trailer. It seems that steel is cheaper. I guess at this point I will be using the trailer maybe 10 times a year for max 300-400 mile distance. My tow vehicle will be a 2004 Cayenne Turbo. I am thinking used is cheaper but POC/PCA have some club deals too. I have seen both types at the track. Any thoughts on cost, durability, safety, etc would be appreciated.

blake

The main reason to buy aluminum is the weight savings. This of course comes at a cost. Steel trailers new tend to cost $2-2.5K (BigTex) wheres a new aluminum (Trailex) will run $5K+. I went with a steel trailer a few year back, and it met my needs. I sold it used one year later for (EDIT: 90%) of what I paid for it new. Not a bad deal at all.... (Aluminum trailers also hold their value quite well, so no need to worry about depreciation)

I think the tow capacity of a Cayenne Turbo is 7700lbs, so you should be fine with either.

Good luck.
-B

EDIT: I went back and checked my receipts. I received a little less than 90% of the MSRP for my one year old steel trailer. Just wanted to be factual as steel holds their value quite well (minus rust of course)!

This was my set-up in 2003:

Doug23

One other thing to potentially consider is aluminum does not rust like steel. No big deal if your planning on keeping your trailer inside or don't live in a place where they salt the roads - but for my needs Aluminum was worth the extra cost.

Cory M

Steel = cheap and heavy
Aluminum = light and expensive
either will get the job done

that pretty much sums it up

callen2

Thanks all for the good info. It is very helpful.

GT3CAR

Ford or chevy
coke or pepsi
tastes great or less filling

You are right, opinions vary.

After researching Alum trailers for a while I decided to buy an 18' Anderson steel car trailer with a beaver tail. I put a small tool box on it and bought some race ramps (raceramps.com) to extend the manufacturer ramps. I also recently had the deck prayed with line-x. Overall, I love it. It pulls great and is very functional. I do not remember the weight exactly but you can probably find it on the net somewhere.

MDL

I have a steel Anderson with a beaver tail as well. I really like it. I added a box in front for storage like Cabcar did. Mine weighs right at 2000 lbs.

I MUCH prefer the extra strength of steal over Aluminum.

jaholmes

Watch the weight of the aluminum trailers because they are not as light as you may think. The featherlites are 1300 to 1500 lbs. The Trailex is really the lightest probably under 1000 lbs. I tow with a Cayenne S and it does just fine.

chrisp

I've owned both and now have aluminum. It took me a long time to find one within my budget. Although it's only 400-500 lbs less than my steel set up it's very noticeable when towing with my V8 4Runner.

Both hold their value very well. Steel depreciates like a new car, the first owner takes the hit. Assuming it's only a few years old, the third owner usually pays close to what the second owner paid. If it's older than that and is stored outside the steel trailer starts to weather whereas aluminum stays nicer and holds its value fantastically with age. I've seen 10 year old aluminum trailers sell for 80% of new. A 10 year old steel trailer is probably worth less than 50% of new.

If you can store it inside, have the tow capacity, and want a low initial investment then steel is a great plan.

If you store it outside and don't mind a higher investment get aluminum.

If you're the type who starts small and typically upgrades just buy the aluminum one now.

If you plan to keep it a long time seriously consider aluminum even if budget is tight.

If you buy steel get one that's 1-2 years old, keep it for 1-2 and flip it.

M758

Well,
You are in so-cal. so now worries about weather. Also 55 limit towing anyway. Get the steel. I have been using a steel & wood trailer for 7 years now. The trailer was purches as 16ft utility trailer back in 1987 by my father. It saw limited used from 87 to 2000. In late 2000 it became my car trailer. I replaced the wood boards once and gave it a repaint in the last couple years. Looks almost new now.

Point is even wood deck over a steel frame lasts a long time in dry climates. The trailer has been stored outside exclusively.

Jay Gratton

I have an ATC and I love it! Best open trailer I have ever pulled. It was worth the extra $$$$ in my eyes and I am poor!

David K.

I just sold my 2001 Trailex, they DO NOT LOSE THERE VAULE!...

Steel trailer lose value as they turn rusty brown…

Also I towed my Trailex with a FJ-Cuiser.

kurt M

yo can get a basic steel for under $1500 if you pick it up. Sell it for near the same years later if you keep in in good shape.

I have an older Trailex that I love. No rust, no paint. Another good point to the alloy ones is docking it on the truck. Back up close and pick the trailer and drop it on the ball. No need to aim as the light weight ones are easy to move around when unloaded. You can also push it behind the garage or where ever without using the truck when storing it out of sight.

Any trailer. I added 2 cheap hitch jacks to the back of my trailer. I can run them down and drive on and off the trailer without it being hooked up to the truck.

M758

I can do both with my steel & wood deck trailer too. Of course only unloaded.

lawjdc

2 questions to answer before deciding between steel and aluminum.

1) Will you be towing on uphill grades or over mountain passes? If you are, then the lighter weight of an aluminum trailer will be a substantial benefit, well worth the cost.

2) Since you are towing with an expensive SUV, is the drivetrain under warranty? If not, then consider purchasing an extended warranty that does not exclude towing. I was advised to purchase an extended warranty when I was towing with a BMW X5 4.6is, and it paid off big time when the transmission imploded.

Just some thoughts.