Can someone point me to good corner balancing instructions?
#16
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Don't forget to set basic ride height first. Determine rake desired and ride height. This will allow you to make small adjustments when on the scales.
Also, measure tire circumfernce. This can lead to an unbalanced stool, to continue an analogy. If your tires are worn, you can adjust to what you think is an accurate corner weight, then, when you get your next set of tires the corners are off. Ask me why I know this.
Also, measure tire circumfernce. This can lead to an unbalanced stool, to continue an analogy. If your tires are worn, you can adjust to what you think is an accurate corner weight, then, when you get your next set of tires the corners are off. Ask me why I know this.
#17
After doing the necessary research on the subject, here's a paper-based worksheet to calculate the target weights for each corner.
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/cornerbalance.htm
There are also links on this page for an Excel spreadsheet to automatically perform the calcs.
Most street-based cars aren't symmetrical side-to-side like a purpose built race car. Thus the side-to-side weight proportions will be different. Because of this, the diagonal weights may not match (although they can be close), even though the car is balanced.
Sherwood
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/cornerbalance.htm
There are also links on this page for an Excel spreadsheet to automatically perform the calcs.
Most street-based cars aren't symmetrical side-to-side like a purpose built race car. Thus the side-to-side weight proportions will be different. Because of this, the diagonal weights may not match (although they can be close), even though the car is balanced.
Sherwood
#19
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No, stagger is when you beat on the car for 6 hours after work, consume way too much beer and have to get from the garage back to the house.
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Larry Herman
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#20
Rennlist Member
Don't forget to set basic ride height first. Determine rake desired and ride height. This will allow you to make small adjustments when on the scales.
Also, measure tire circumfernce. This can lead to an unbalanced stool, to continue an analogy. If your tires are worn, you can adjust to what you think is an accurate corner weight, then, when you get your next set of tires the corners are off. Ask me why I know this.
Also, measure tire circumfernce. This can lead to an unbalanced stool, to continue an analogy. If your tires are worn, you can adjust to what you think is an accurate corner weight, then, when you get your next set of tires the corners are off. Ask me why I know this.
Consider a laxative.
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
Don't forget to set basic ride height first. Determine rake desired and ride height. This will allow you to make small adjustments when on the scales.
Also, measure tire circumfernce. This can lead to an unbalanced stool, to continue an analogy. If your tires are worn, you can adjust to what you think is an accurate corner weight, then, when you get your next set of tires the corners are off. Ask me why I know this.
Also, measure tire circumfernce. This can lead to an unbalanced stool, to continue an analogy. If your tires are worn, you can adjust to what you think is an accurate corner weight, then, when you get your next set of tires the corners are off. Ask me why I know this.
Those are two things we're going to do. I was able to coax the basic ride height settings out of Karl Poetl as he set up his class winning S2 so we'll start from there. I spent last year anywhere between a half an inch and a full inch higher than some of the guys I run with and with the steel control arms I should be able to drop the ride height with minimal consequences.
I also decided to put new shaved tires on as I think I had heat cycled out the previous set.
Thanks.
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
Eddie, here's a thread about that very subject a few months ago:
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/387502-corner-balance-scales.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/387502-corner-balance-scales.html
Chris-
Thanks for the link I forgot about setting the shocks to full soft.
#24
Rennlist Member
Unlike the stool the car has stuff in it and not all in the center.
some things to keep in mind there are plenty more. Be sure to check and even out tire pressure, unhook sway bars, and load your body weight in the driver seat before doing anything. Bags of sand inside plastic bags work well. Roll the car back and forth and bounce it some after each tweek.
some things to keep in mind there are plenty more. Be sure to check and even out tire pressure, unhook sway bars, and load your body weight in the driver seat before doing anything. Bags of sand inside plastic bags work well. Roll the car back and forth and bounce it some after each tweek.
#26
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Hmmm...
Another thing to remember here is that a lot of this stuff matters in the extreme, but not in reality, depending on the car. As the spring rate approaches a higher percentage of the car's weight (open wheelers), details like air pressure and shock settings become much more important. For a relatively stock car with lower rate springs, this stuff only stand to add to your workload, not necessarily the success of your outcome.
In other words, most of the cars we are driving do not change noiticeably when all the minutiae is factored in. No, it doesn't hurt, but it's easy to lose the forest.
Another thing to remember here is that a lot of this stuff matters in the extreme, but not in reality, depending on the car. As the spring rate approaches a higher percentage of the car's weight (open wheelers), details like air pressure and shock settings become much more important. For a relatively stock car with lower rate springs, this stuff only stand to add to your workload, not necessarily the success of your outcome.
In other words, most of the cars we are driving do not change noiticeably when all the minutiae is factored in. No, it doesn't hurt, but it's easy to lose the forest.
#27
+1 on that. You need to fully relax the suspension every time you put the car back on the scale pads. Take soem real care with this to avioid wasting time achieving numbers that look good on the scale but are nothing like reality.
#28
Tires and wheels are symetrical left to right and within maybe an ounce or so of each other. So since most live in the tintop world is there a way to make corner weighting easier? For example does anyone make a post or jackstand that connects to the hubs so that if you have a lift or are really careful with jacks you can weight and unweight the suspension by lifting the car up and down in one place to quickly adjust coilovers? We need something that not only attaches to the hub but slides perpendicular to the long axis of the car to remove stiction in the suspension like jackstands bolted to hubs riding on slip plates.
#29
Rennlist Member
In a car that already has an EXACT 50% balance either left to right OR front to rear, then the diagonal weights would be the same. But, due to the asymetry of things like where the driver sits, this is rarely the case. If your 911 is heavier in the rear, and heavier on the left side, the corner balancing has to involve a simple mathematical equation to make sure the diagonal loading is proper so the car doesn't "seesaw".