arbeitm

I figured I'd cross post this here. I might get more responses.

If I was to "hypothetically" buy a set of corner balance scales, would the 1,100 lbs scales be sufficient or would I need to get the 1,500 lbs ones?

These are the Accuset scales from Long Acre.

Larry Herman

I'd go for the 1500 lb units. That's what I have. More durable and if you do the math, a 3200 car like a 996 with 60% of it's weight on the rear wheels puts 960 lbs on each scale, close to 90% of the scales rating, and that is not enough margin IMHO.

adrial

When you corner balance a car, it is important to bump (compress -- by jumping on) the suspension a few times to find the value that the suspension will settle at after you make an adjustment...which will probably push you over the limit in Larry's 996 example.

arbeitm

I was figuring my SC is around 2,900 lbs. So that would put the numbers around 850's in the rear.

Also, the 1,500 lbs scales are 15"x15" where as the 1,100 lbs. scales are 12"x12". I don't know if that makes a difference too.

adrial

Don't forget the driver...

Larry Herman

Plus to really do it right you need 2 sets of turn plates (4) so that the suspension does not bind. I bought the cheap steel ones and they weight 50 lbs each, so that's another 200 lbs. Of course the lightweight aluminum ones cost 5 times as much.

kurt M

2 squares of floor tile with some lube spray between them makes a cheap light weight bind breaker under each wheel.

chris walrod

Or large zip lock baggies

JoeMag

watch when you use these anti bind things (especially those will no side limits). you put it under all 4 tires and you'll amazed how easy it will be to slide your car right off the scales!

Hey Chris -- that ziplock thing is a great idea! I had been using the smooth side of two squares of bathroom wall board with grease in between then. the zip locks take away the worry about differences of height and the scale lips will help prevent what I mention above.

Rick

True...but that's only 150 pounds...according to PCA.

kurt M

Hey now, had not thought of that one. Now that's slick!

Bull

OK, then I'm good if we go back to the "riding mechanic" days!

chris walrod

pun intended?

Do be careful as its easy to slide a car off the scales. Hate to get a 13/13 in your garage

kurt M

Yes. kudos on a good tip too.

I am using a 12 inch plate set. Hooked up a set for cheap. I have a lift in the shop so I made a set of holders that have room for me to roll onto and off of the pads for unloading and zeroing the scales. Less space and $ taken up than with a ramp set. The holders have 4 ajustable feet each and the feet ends have nylon tips so the scale holders can slide with little binding. I lift the car and slide the pads under to preset locations where they are dead level and set the car down. The suspention settles and the holders give a little. roll on and off a couple times and go to town. Ajust and roll back and forth again. If I a car with tires that are wider than the plates I stack some 1/2 plywood on the plates to keep the tires from touching the holder frames.

Cris Brady

I guess my technique could use some fine tuning. I'm not sure where the roll-on, roll-off parts works. Here's my technique, tell me how I can make it better.

I use a lift and put the car in the air, detach the sways, back down on the ground, bounce it on the corners, and then back up in the air. I place the scales under the tires in a pre-marked area, let them settle, and press the zero button. I then lower the car onto the scale pads, bounce the car front and rear, let it settle and take a reading. Up in the air, make an adjustment, back down, bounce front and rear, settle, take a reading and repeat.

Now are you guys saying I should also push the car in a horizontal axis (as with the baggie) after doing the bounce (vertical axis)?