It's real pretty but until I can get Pimp my Ride to do my trailer i'll stick with my good ol Silverado diesel.. actually my wife says she will bury me in it before I buy another one so there ya go..

 

To echo what others have said, IMO the wheelbase is not long enough to handle the physics that happen when getting passed by a tandem semi doing 90mph in a crosswind.

 

To echo what others have said, IMO the wheelbase is not long enough to handle the physics that happen when getting passed by a tandem semi doing 90mph in a crosswind.

 

I would have no issues or concerns towing an open trailer behind a GL or similar size SUV. Moving to large brick enclose is a different story. I would by happiest with 250/2500 type truck and might be interested in a "larger" 150/1500 (ie 10k limit) series if got a smaller enclosed and did everything just right with respect to load balance in the trailer, weight eq hitch etc.

BTW... now I tow my open trailer behind a 99 2500 Dodge V10. Trailer what trailer...? But the thing really likes fuel stops. I get 9.5 to 10 mpg towing abotu 70-75.

 

I tow an open trailer (~2,500 pounds) carrying an M3, 6 tires/wheels, etc. (~3,100 pounds) with a 3/4 ton Yukon XL with a 6 liter gas V8. At 65-70 MPH, I get 12-12.4 mpg pretty consistently. If I up that to 75 MPH or higher, mileage drops to around 10.

 

+1, or 3, or 6...no time to count.

 

I carry alot more crap.

2450lbs 944 on an old (20 year old) 16 ft open trailer.

But...

I have 8 spares on trailer. 4 45 lbs cannopy weights on the trailer.

in the bed of the truck I have...

1 spare gearbox - 85lbs
1 120lbs tool box
1 large box with spare parts - figure 50-60lbs
60-80 lbs of fuel in cans
2 20 lbs cannopies.
1 30lbs floor jack

I carry all this under a contractor shell which sticks up about 5" above the truck's roof line. That alone is probably 1 to 2 mpg. Still the truck does even break a sweat. Overkill for my needs, but easy to drive a long way.

 

With a 7.3, having a spare CPS or two, along with a 10mm ratchet, is good planning. I've rescued friends who weren't quite as 'prepared' as me. Telltale signs: Occasional single 'stutter' - if you're under power, it just shakes the truck a bit...if you're stopped, it'll kill the truck but immediately restart. This gets progressively worse as the little bastard fails. Easily replaced...can do it in about 5 minutes if the hold-down bolt isn't stuck. Lie under the nose of the truck and look "up"...it's right above the crank pulley, and clamped in place by the 'crank pointer' thingy.

They've gotten remarkably cheaper in the past year - Ford used to get ~$190 for one (even though the International/Navistar dealer could sell you the same sensor for ~$85 !). Now, they're dirt cheap:

http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/p...catalogid=3660

 

As a comparison point.....I have a friend with the same drive-train in a Denali, but pulling a 22ft. ATC aluminum enclosed trailer with about the same weight car, tires, etc. as you. He sees about 8-8.5 mpg at 70mph, and is ecstatic when he sees 9 mph.

 

Yeah, the enclosed trailers produce a lot more wind resistance than the open trailers, hence the ****tier mileage. Also, I have a 4.10 rear axle.

 

I don't know Larry, but it seems we might have had this discussion on a few previous occasions. I think I just linked all the discussions the last time....

FWIW, size and length does matter in relation to stability when towing....

The GL320 MBZ has a 121.1 inch wheel base,
The Surburban has a 130. inch wheel base,
The Excursion has a 137.1 wheel base,
My F350 CC, DRW has a 172.4 inch wheel base.....

 

The Tundra Crewmax has a 145.7" wheel base. I wonder how much difference that 15" has over the Suburban....

 

I'll add that I had a few OH **** moments two weeks ago towing a 22ft trailer about 5000 pounds total on my 119 inch wheelbase regular cab 1500 GMC truck. The truck will be for sale soon and we have purchased a new 2500hd crew cab... picking it up next week. A new truck is expensive, but my dad and I value our car and our lives (and others lives) more than the money saved by running a smaller, cheaper truck.

 

The Mercedes comes with a trailer stability system. Works pretty well, so it makes up a bit for the smaller wheelbase. I beleive it is a combination of active suspension and braking system.

 

Standard box with the 153" wheelbase or the long box with 167"?

To tow a 24' enclosed steel trailer, what sort of wheelbase is optimal, and how do you know? The trade-off between stability in towing and manueverability is hard for me to figure.