Racing suspension advice - 911SC
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Gary,
Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.
I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.
I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
#17
Rennlist Member
Gary,
Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.
I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.
I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
John at CCW knows exactly what fits and what is legal, just talk to him and the wheels will fit..
#18
Burning Brakes
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Don,
A lot of good stuff in this thread. See if you can find a copy of the September 2003 Excellence magazine. In it they descripe the progression of setting up an SC for the track. I thought at one time someone scanned it in here, but I couldn't find it.
Most of the info is in this thread, but it gives you the whole picture. Most of the top cars are modeled after that, then tweaked for personnal preferences.
A lot of good stuff in this thread. See if you can find a copy of the September 2003 Excellence magazine. In it they descripe the progression of setting up an SC for the track. I thought at one time someone scanned it in here, but I couldn't find it.
Most of the info is in this thread, but it gives you the whole picture. Most of the top cars are modeled after that, then tweaked for personnal preferences.
#19
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Don
From the perspective of one who has spent numerous track hours looking at yor rear bumper thru my windsheild I say convert it all back to stock. Oh...and stay with the slightly used Hoosiers with 103 heat cycles.
Just my $.02.
From the perspective of one who has spent numerous track hours looking at yor rear bumper thru my windsheild I say convert it all back to stock. Oh...and stay with the slightly used Hoosiers with 103 heat cycles.
Just my $.02.
#20
NASA Racer
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#21
NASA Racer
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Gary,
Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.
I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.
I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
As Gary said, it's a crap shoot. You'll have to use a variety of methods to get them to work including playing with the ride height and camber. Are you running Hoosiers?
#22
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It's on the Smart Racing Products website. They have it scanned in the "Front axle and Steering" portion of their catalog.
#23
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Option 1: Call Jim Buckley at Buckley Racing in Fort Worth, TX. Tell him to send you everything that he currently has on his car. When asked, immediately send the check with the stated amount. Then, come to TWS in the Spring and run in the Club Race while you watch Jim run away from you. Have him set up your car for you while you're at the track. Again, hand over check immediately with the agreed upon amount.
Now enjoy your car.
Any questions?
Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".
Now enjoy your car.
Any questions?
Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".
#24
Burning Brakes
Option 1: Call Jim Buckley at Buckley Racing in Fort Worth, TX. Tell him to send you everything that he currently has on his car. When asked, immediately send the check with the stated amount. Then, come to TWS in the Spring and run in the Club Race while you watch Jim run away from you. Have him set up your car for you while you're at the track. Again, hand over check immediately with the agreed upon amount.
Now enjoy your car.
Any questions?
Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".
Now enjoy your car.
Any questions?
Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".
+1
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Gary, thanks! I should have been more careful. Dan gave me good advice last winter when I was rebuilding my engine. You mention CCW 8s and 9s. Arent 7 & 8s max legal for G (now D)?
Mark M, Thanks. Ill find it.
Ted, Thanks. Ive been driving my car for five years in anger, spun it more times than either of us can count. You just have to get comfortable with yours (The Joker). You have been driving it for less than a year, with most of that being an engine rebuild. As soon as you are passing me, Ill get some gay Boy Robin graphics to go along with the Joker.
Sean and Astroman, thank for the input.
Bill and David, I appreciate your input, but paying those guys, not to mention the towing costs to TX or CT from VA, would pay for a years racing budget. Ill swap out the torsion bars and shocks this winter and try a couple of club races next year.
It seems like the consensus is 23 front and 31 rear, re-valve the shocks, and leave the Big Bling Smart Racing sway bars for another year.
Don
Mark M, Thanks. Ill find it.
Ted, Thanks. Ive been driving my car for five years in anger, spun it more times than either of us can count. You just have to get comfortable with yours (The Joker). You have been driving it for less than a year, with most of that being an engine rebuild. As soon as you are passing me, Ill get some gay Boy Robin graphics to go along with the Joker.
Sean and Astroman, thank for the input.
Bill and David, I appreciate your input, but paying those guys, not to mention the towing costs to TX or CT from VA, would pay for a years racing budget. Ill swap out the torsion bars and shocks this winter and try a couple of club races next year.
It seems like the consensus is 23 front and 31 rear, re-valve the shocks, and leave the Big Bling Smart Racing sway bars for another year.
Don
#26
Nordschleife Master
Option 1: Call Jim Buckley at Buckley Racing in Fort Worth, TX. Tell him to send you everything that he currently has on his car. When asked, immediately send the check with the stated amount. Then, come to TWS in the Spring and run in the Club Race while you watch Jim run away from you. Have him set up your car for you while you're at the track. Again, hand over check immediately with the agreed upon amount.
Now enjoy your car.
Any questions?
Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".
Now enjoy your car.
Any questions?
Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".
Do yourself a favor and buy a system from a know builder of these cars with proven race results. If you try to gather a bunch of "best of breed" components, you'll end up with an expensive, poor handling car.
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sean,
Yes, I am using Hoosiers. I buy used tires from a couple of sources who dump them after 6-8 heat cycles.
Mark,
That is great news. I knew you could go 1 wider, but I thought that 6 and 7 wide was all that was available on the SC.
Yes, I am using Hoosiers. I buy used tires from a couple of sources who dump them after 6-8 heat cycles.
Mark,
That is great news. I knew you could go 1 wider, but I thought that 6 and 7 wide was all that was available on the SC.
#29
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FWIW I spent the year with a 22/30 set up and am going to a 33 in the rear and something stiffer in the front to go with the rear increase. I'm running 17 235/245 - 275's. I frequently felt like I was asking to much from the suspension in high load turns. I think with the wider tires 8/9's you are able to genereate higher g loads than with less rubber on the road.
I have SRP sways and they make adjusting at the track very easy. I think it will be difficult to get the results you are looking for without some good adjustable sways. My .02
I have SRP sways and they make adjusting at the track very easy. I think it will be difficult to get the results you are looking for without some good adjustable sways. My .02