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Old 11-20-2007, 11:11 PM
  #16  
dbryant61
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Gary,

Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.

I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
Old 11-21-2007, 12:34 AM
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Gary R.
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Originally Posted by dbryant61
Gary,

Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.

I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
Don, it's a crapshoot as far as some rubbing is concerned and you can blame that on our cars being manufactured by hand back then. A LOT of differences. On my latest car I tossed a set of 8/9" CCW 18" rims w/245/275 Hoo R6's on and nary a rub from day one on the qtr panel. On my previous car (78 SC also) it rubbed like a bitch from day one! Of course on my current car I ate the rubber portion of the backdate oil line (upper one from thermostat to connection near the cooler) because it MUST be routed under the second oil line (thermostat to oil tank) to keep it clear and I forgot that when I built it.. Once that's done you should see no issues. I do own a fender roller I bought from Eastwood and modified to fit our lug pattern and flattened all fender lips also. It's available to anyone that needs it, just ask and i'll ship it to you, ship it home when your done.

John at CCW knows exactly what fits and what is legal, just talk to him and the wheels will fit..
Old 11-21-2007, 08:44 AM
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MarkM
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Don,
A lot of good stuff in this thread. See if you can find a copy of the September 2003 Excellence magazine. In it they descripe the progression of setting up an SC for the track. I thought at one time someone scanned it in here, but I couldn't find it.

Most of the info is in this thread, but it gives you the whole picture. Most of the top cars are modeled after that, then tweaked for personnal preferences.
Old 11-21-2007, 09:10 AM
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Don

From the perspective of one who has spent numerous track hours looking at yor rear bumper thru my windsheild I say convert it all back to stock. Oh...and stay with the slightly used Hoosiers with 103 heat cycles.

Just my $.02.
Old 11-21-2007, 09:13 AM
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Sean F
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
I don't know about what Dan uses, but I got -2.5 degrees out of my car by moving the struts to their innermost factory position, and then tightening the strut brace to suck the fenders together. There was very little fender gap when I was done.
+1
Old 11-21-2007, 09:24 AM
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Sean F
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Originally Posted by dbryant61
Gary,

Thanks for the clarification. The info I got may well have been from someone who needed to make an excuse for his inability to compete.

I know some of them (Hairy Dog cars) are using CCW rims, 245 front and 275 rear. Do you have any idea what offsets they use, and hoe much fender "encouragement" is required? ANy other mods in the wheel wells to keep them from rubbing or damaging oil lines?
an 8" wide wheel with 5.5" backspace has 25.4mm offset,a 9" wide wheel with 5.5" backspace has 12.7mm offset

As Gary said, it's a crap shoot. You'll have to use a variety of methods to get them to work including playing with the ride height and camber. Are you running Hoosiers?
Old 11-21-2007, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkM
See if you can find a copy of the September 2003 Excellence magazine. In it they describe the progression of setting up an SC for the track. I thought at one time someone scanned it in here, but I couldn't find it.
It's on the Smart Racing Products website. They have it scanned in the "Front axle and Steering" portion of their catalog.
Old 11-21-2007, 01:51 PM
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Option 1: Call Jim Buckley at Buckley Racing in Fort Worth, TX. Tell him to send you everything that he currently has on his car. When asked, immediately send the check with the stated amount. Then, come to TWS in the Spring and run in the Club Race while you watch Jim run away from you. Have him set up your car for you while you're at the track. Again, hand over check immediately with the agreed upon amount.

Now enjoy your car.

Any questions?

Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".
Old 11-21-2007, 03:31 PM
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David 23
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Originally Posted by trackjunky
Option 1: Call Jim Buckley at Buckley Racing in Fort Worth, TX. Tell him to send you everything that he currently has on his car. When asked, immediately send the check with the stated amount. Then, come to TWS in the Spring and run in the Club Race while you watch Jim run away from you. Have him set up your car for you while you're at the track. Again, hand over check immediately with the agreed upon amount.

Now enjoy your car.

Any questions?

Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".

+1
Old 11-21-2007, 08:44 PM
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Gary, thanks! I should have been more careful. Dan gave me good advice last winter when I was rebuilding my engine. You mention CCW 8s and 9s. Arent 7 & 8s max legal for G (now D)?

Mark M, Thanks. Ill find it.

Ted, Thanks. Ive been driving my car for five years in anger, spun it more times than either of us can count. You just have to get comfortable with yours (The Joker). You have been driving it for less than a year, with most of that being an engine rebuild. As soon as you are passing me, Ill get some gay Boy Robin graphics to go along with the Joker.

Sean and Astroman, thank for the input.

Bill and David, I appreciate your input, but paying those guys, not to mention the towing costs to TX or CT from VA, would pay for a years racing budget. Ill swap out the torsion bars and shocks this winter and try a couple of club races next year.

It seems like the consensus is 23 front and 31 rear, re-valve the shocks, and leave the Big Bling Smart Racing sway bars for another year.

Don
Old 11-21-2007, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by trackjunky
Option 1: Call Jim Buckley at Buckley Racing in Fort Worth, TX. Tell him to send you everything that he currently has on his car. When asked, immediately send the check with the stated amount. Then, come to TWS in the Spring and run in the Club Race while you watch Jim run away from you. Have him set up your car for you while you're at the track. Again, hand over check immediately with the agreed upon amount.

Now enjoy your car.

Any questions?

Option 2: Call Dan Jacobs at Hairy Dog Garage. Follow as previously stated above but insert "Dan" for "Jim" and "Watkins Glen" for "TWS".
+2

Do yourself a favor and buy a system from a know builder of these cars with proven race results. If you try to gather a bunch of "best of breed" components, you'll end up with an expensive, poor handling car.
Old 11-22-2007, 09:17 AM
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MarkM
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No, 8s & 9s are legal for stock G/D SC's. They are 1 inch wider than avaialable options.
Old 11-22-2007, 10:58 AM
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Sean,

Yes, I am using Hoosiers. I buy used tires from a couple of sources who dump them after 6-8 heat cycles.

Mark,

That is great news. I knew you could go 1 wider, but I thought that 6 and 7 wide was all that was available on the SC.
Old 11-22-2007, 11:05 AM
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FWIW I spent the year with a 22/30 set up and am going to a 33 in the rear and something stiffer in the front to go with the rear increase. I'm running 17 235/245 - 275's. I frequently felt like I was asking to much from the suspension in high load turns. I think with the wider tires 8/9's you are able to genereate higher g loads than with less rubber on the road.

I have SRP sways and they make adjusting at the track very easy. I think it will be difficult to get the results you are looking for without some good adjustable sways. My .02
Old 11-22-2007, 11:20 AM
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Gary R.
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Originally Posted by dbryant61
It seems like the consensus is 23 front and 31 rear, re-valve the shocks, and leave the Big Bling Smart Racing sway bars for another year.
Don
I would put the bling bling SRP adj. bars on immediately Don.... Start with both full soft and start moving the front up first in testing. Just my $.02


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