JoeMag

The stripped tub I have has this insanely rough primer on it. What is the commended method to knock that roughness down? Primary area of concern is the interior. Hope I can find some power tool method. So many curves...

Also, what is a good durable paint? I've previously painted with single coat glasurit and that stuff is great, but just silly expensive (I know, you get what you pay for). Want something that will hold up on race car and would prefer a single coat (ie: no clear coat) type paint.

Geoffrey

I would have no patience for doing the interior and would have the car media blasted then use a rotisserie to paint it. I used Spies Hecker single stage paint on my car, but again, you get what you pay for and it is as expensive as Glasurit.

RedlineMan

I agree with G;

If the primer is that bad, get rid of it. Plastic media blast is the best. If not, you might as well grab the sand paper and get sanding. You can hit a very few spots with a Dual Action pad sander, but most of it will need to be done by hand.

There is no such thing as inexpensive paint. They are all pricey.

BrianKeithSmith

Find a Dupont dealer in your area that sells Dupont's NASON line of paint. It's their lower grade stuff, but to be honest, you can barely tell the difference. I've often bought the NASON basecoat, then cleared it with PPG or Dupont clear.

As long as you aren't trying to match up 100% to an existing color, NASON works fine...

John H

Hey Joe,

Try this

Matt Romanowski

Dupont Imron is hard as nails. Work's well on cages.

BrianKeithSmith

If Imron won't kill you while spraying it, and you actually get to see the finished result, you'll definitely be happy...

Takes full-fledged respiration/filtration gear to spray that stuff...

(at least for me)

Brian

Matt Romanowski

It is a little vaporous while spraying....

kurt M

Rustoleum hammered finish for the inside of a track car. Yes it is a bit dirt track but it covers all kinds of defects in the finish from rough primer to dead flies in the corners. Can be sprayed from a can, from a gun or rolled. Can be sprayed in sections and blends in as the hammered finish covers blend lines. Foam back sanding pads are good for getting into odd corners and around things and shapes. Foam pads are not good for contrast primer sanding for smoothness as they follow the surface and dont knock down high spots.

Lemming

I see we have similar budgets

srf506

If you go to the trouble to get it all smooth inside the car by media blasting, or sweat equity, why don't you take it down to a powder coater and have the tub finished in a neutral white, red, black, or grey and then just paint the outside? Wears like steel, great looking glossy finish when done an relatively inexpensive and less harmful to your lungs!

Geo

Weight.

vintage914racer

Not to hijack the thread, but I am curious about the rustoleum hammered finish. Do you have any pictures of your interior with this method? I have redone the interior of my race car a couple times in the last 12 years. My last attempt included applying por15 to the floors and then following their primiing and prep instructions, but the results were not successful (since the car is open topped I couldn't just leave the POR15 exposed to UV rays). Now the car is most primer on the inside and I just want to make it look more complete on a budget.

srf506

George,
Isn't much heavier than primer/base coat/clear coat apps and you're only talking inside the cabin and maybe the engine compartment. We did it to our entire SRF chassis and its weight difference was negligable compared to the stock primered and painted chassis. plus its more uniform coverage on all of the various nooks and crannies, and it held up to battery acid, gasoline, oil, and you name it.

Greg Smith

Media blasted and use POR15? For the interior that is of course...