boiled em for the first time, now what?
09-24-2007 | 04:28 PM
#31
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Daytona Beach, FL
follow up report
Just a quick update to the brake saga....
Brakes bled 2 times and noticed the pedal was now lower and mushy very different than before this incident. Then did a complete flush of the system (Motive bleeder) with no improvement. On closer analysis I also notice the pedal slowly sinking during steady pressure while driving. Not completely to the ground but noticeble. Braking still good.
I did a search and have come to the conclusion that the brake master cylinder is probably bad and I suspect the seals may have been damaged at the track when the pedal went repeatedly to the floor. The cylinder is an original part dated 9/94 so I will plan replacing and am praying it is not the ABS causing a problem. I am able to get the ABS to cycle when braking and seems to be working OK. No light on the dash either!
Any other ideas or things I should check?
Thanks!
Brakes bled 2 times and noticed the pedal was now lower and mushy very different than before this incident. Then did a complete flush of the system (Motive bleeder) with no improvement. On closer analysis I also notice the pedal slowly sinking during steady pressure while driving. Not completely to the ground but noticeble. Braking still good.
I did a search and have come to the conclusion that the brake master cylinder is probably bad and I suspect the seals may have been damaged at the track when the pedal went repeatedly to the floor. The cylinder is an original part dated 9/94 so I will plan replacing and am praying it is not the ABS causing a problem. I am able to get the ABS to cycle when braking and seems to be working OK. No light on the dash either!
Any other ideas or things I should check?
Thanks!
09-24-2007 | 05:35 PM
#33
Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: So. Calif.
Mark,
I concur with your conclusions. The torn seal is probably affecting only 1/2 the split hydraulic system. You still have brakes but not all of them.
Bleed the MC before installation. That'll remove most of the air during installation, then use a pressure bleeder or plain gravity to purge the remainder. Since the MC will be new, you shouldn't have any issues using the brake pedal to bleed the system, but don't get into a habit of bleeding this way.
Sherwood
I concur with your conclusions. The torn seal is probably affecting only 1/2 the split hydraulic system. You still have brakes but not all of them.
Bleed the MC before installation. That'll remove most of the air during installation, then use a pressure bleeder or plain gravity to purge the remainder. Since the MC will be new, you shouldn't have any issues using the brake pedal to bleed the system, but don't get into a habit of bleeding this way.
Sherwood
09-25-2007 | 03:24 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 796
Likes: 7
From: Asheville, NC
Try the cooling, change in pads and SRF and most importantly focus on the way in which you brake. You didn't mention how much track experience you have. One think I note is that the more experience you have the less time you are on the brakes. What I mean is that you brake harder, but the pads are making contact with the rotor for less time per lap, thus giving more time to cool. The temp will spike and lower faster (Assuming good cooling).
Good luck and let us know what you do and if it works. Otherwise, just bleed at the track and slap the street tires back on.
