The reason I ask is because I am in the process of rebuilding my SC's rear suspension and i'm using the 18 month old parts from my doner car. I was surprised at the condition of the parts. Though still serviceable, it's a darn good thing I dissasembled everything when I did! The Polybronze sleeves, which I just JB Welded on the shafts of my 930, used to be (per Smart Racings kit) installed with shims. Now I know why they stopped doing it that way. Every shim but one had come loose. Needless to say they are JB Welded now. The bushings also were lacking grease, which is my fault as I couldn't get a gun on the darn nipples very well. I bought a special 90 degree fitting for my gun, hopefully that will work or i'll take the torsion covers off to get to them after every race/DE from now on.

Monoballs. I was going to dissasemble and repack them and discovered that these VERY expensive bushings have a cheap Chinese bearing in them (which is pretty worn for the amount i've run it!). I'm going to try and source a replacement bearing. I have a new set but I may wait for a better bearing before I install them, depends on timing..

So I guess my point is don't think because you spent a ka-gillion dollars on the best parts you are home free!

 

That sucks. What brand are the monoballs with the crappy bearings?

 

Elephant Racing - http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...dmonoballs.htm

 

Not sure if Chuck from Elephant watches here but he's all over Pelican. You could open up a discussion over there and see what he comes back with...or just PM him. Look for "Chuck Moreland".

 

Yep.. posted there also Chris. I really was surprised at the bearing in the monoballs but I suppose I shouldn't have been. I'm going to look at it closer tomorrow to see if there is any way I can get a zerk installed to give it a shot once in a while...

 

the monoball should be teflon coated...perfoming better dry than wet.

 

I'll look at the one I took apart, don't think there is any teflon in there.. they have teflon in China?

 

I'll have to take a look at my rear polybronze bushing to make sure the shims haven't moved. Thanks for the heads up. +1 on the monoballs having teflon. Mine are 8 years old and going strong.

And yes China has teflon, I think they put it in toothpaste. Or was that cat food?

 

When I shook the bearing it rattled (as I remember).. made the sound of fireworks off in the distance. Maybe that is designed in?

 

Great. Gary, let me know what else you find while you're in there since our cars are setup the same. I think I'll have Dan give my car the once over since he has it for a couple of weeks.

 

Sean - If your Polybronze bushings were done this year the sleeves are most likely JB Weld'd in. I would go as far as to say that even if you have been able to grease them regularly they should be taken apart, cleaned, and inspected at periods dependent on usage. Bitch is this means a realignment so i'm still going to keep it to once per year. Dan is aware of the monoball bearing "issue", he gave me the name of a bearing supplier but (duh) I forgot it...

 

Gary -

Thanks for the heads up!

I have those same poly bronze for the A-arms, which I haven't lubed yet either. I broke off one zirk fitting and need to jam grease in the other.


I have, and thought you also had the Wevo Camber King unit up front. You just had the separate monoballs and installed them in your stock units?

 

Sorry for the confusion Glenn, I should have been more specific. The monoballs are what the rear trailing arm (banana arm) hangs off. You are correct, those are monoballs in the camber king but they aren't as abused and should be fine for a looong time. Get those polybronze bushings greased up!!

 

Dang. I was afraid you meant the rears!

I bought the sealed ones for the rear banana arms.

Make any difference - or should I still (somehow????) pack in lube? Jeez, I thought I wouldn't ever be touching those things again!

 

I'm told they really can't/shouldn't be lubed. What I would suggest this winter is to pop the arms out enough to get at the monoballs and pull one of the bearings out (and examine the two end seals), all you need is some good circlip pliers. Worst case scenario you will replace just the bearing and maybe by then someone will have found the source for a non-China part..