Marc Shaw

I have one of those and just love it - worth every penny as it makes brake pad changes easy and caliper-paint damage risk free. The pad puller on the same page is handy too but not nearly as necessary.

Marc

TR6

I bought one of these cheapo spreaders and then couldn't figure out how to make it work on my 911. So I went back to the small pry bar method. The only thing I worry about with the pry bar method is possibly bending or warping something that I'm lever against.

While we're on this topic, what do you guys use for pad removal tools? Just grap the end of the pads with big pliers? Do you use anything that hooks into the two little holes in the pad backing plates?

Matt Romanowski

[QUOTE=TR6]I bought one of these cheapo spreaders and then couldn't figure out how to make it work on my 911. QUOTE]

That won't work on your 911.

Wreck Me Otter

I have one of the Eagle Day ones that I'll sell, now that I no longer have a 993....PM me if interested.

Edit:
SOLD

RonCT

Don't waste your time and money on a specialty tool -- as was mentioned, a set of channel locks that everyone has with something to cushion the pressure on the caliper is all you need. Squeeze the retaining pin hole in a pad to the outside of the caliper for both inboard and outboard pads and you are done. About 5 minutes per corner - so 30 minutes for a set. All I use for the process is 1) Channel Locks, 2) small screwdriver to pull out the cotter pin and then push through the retaining pin. That's it - 2 tools...

jakermc

True, there are cheaper ways to get the job done. But this tool turns the 30 minute job into a 5-10 minute job. Plus there are occasions when my pry bar/old pad method didn't go as smoothly as planned. Never so with the specialty tool. It doesn't take too many pad changes for the investment to pay off. The analogy of using an impact gun to remove wheels was a good one. You don't NEED an impact gun, but it sure makes the job easier and once you try it you never want to go back.

cchan

I've found trigger clamps work more easily than the channel locks, seems like I can get more leverage. Work on one side at a time, squeeze the pad against the outside of the caliper with a few quick pumps on the trigger. Plus it's rubber coated, so don't have to worry about scratching the calipers, which I was worried about if the channel locks slipped. Not sure if it would work if the brakes are hot though.

Marc Shaw

Ahmen!

I'd never give up the DeWalt cordless impact after being spoiled by it and I'd never go back to fumbling with pliers, screwdrivers, prybars, and rags as padding again!

Marc

spare tire

You all have it wrong. I just go to my friend Greg's house and use his pad spreader and lift and It doesn't cost anything. It pays to know a good tool junky.

ECS

Thanks all. Great info.

TrackDays247.com

OLD post.....I know, thanks.

A customer purchased a spreader for his 997 GT3, loves it, a nice option as it does 4 & 6 piston brakes:

mglobe

Combination of these two methods. The channel locks to spread the pads far enough to be able to extract them. Then I take one of the pads I've removed to push the pistons into the caliper as Dave explained. No need to buy anything special or expensive, and who doesn't need a pair of channel locks in their tool kit?

VERBOTN

I use a spark-plug tool that cost less than $5.00 works great and due to the coated ends does not scratch the finish.

Toby Pennycuff

I bought one of these Girodisc tools and LOVE IT! It's worth EVERY PENNY!

Toby

Tonydec

That Snap On one works great, and not that expensive compared to the others.

Just thank Porsche for not going to the push and turn pistons like Audi, Acura, and some others.