I have heard that the early (79 ish) RX-7 oil coolers work well and they are a lot cheaper then ones made for P-Cars.

 

If I were you i'd lean right on over to Oxford, CT... have him do the bumper at the same time.

I'll even spray it for you if you get it first!

 

I know, I know. I've got some other tricks up my sleeve that he's going to work on as well. Got some parts on the way. I'm redoing the exhaust as well so I'm going with front and rear bumper and decklid/spoiler at the same time. Think I might have found an LSD as well Now if I can only find some free time between DE and race days I might actually be able to get it all done.

Do you have any leftover orange paint

 

I have Signal Orange AND Speed Yellow!! plus I have to buy some Black for my new bumpers and the tail (from the yellow car, this one has no tail at all).. Your car isn't straight black is it? More of a charcoal/Basalt? We could always do your new FG parts in silver too!

 

Yeah, I'm trying to figure out what color to paint. My current is OEM - metallic black. It's basically black with silver flakes that looks like a dark gray/charcoal.

 

The B&B is a pretty good complete kit, make some brackets for the cooler and you're done.

If you plan on buying a cooler and doing it yourself make sure you account for the cost of all the fittings and hose, that alone will cost a couple hundred bucks.

 

BAT has a kit for connectors and line. I think I spent $80-$100 but don't quote me. They make it pretty turn key...although they do not include mounting brackets. I went to Home Depot for those.

If you decide to DIY make sure you rubber mount it to avoid vibration cracks.

 

I *almost* bought a Mocal kit from Bat for the 930, just wasn't sure exactly what to get so I chickened out and had Dan J. order me a B&B kit spec'd by him. I mounted it to the body using pieces of 1/2" conveyor belt as an isolator from a scrap piece at a nearby quarry. SUPER strong stuff, worked great.

 

Hey Sean;

You made the key statement earlier. You can't get air in unless you can get it out. Like blowing into a bottle, you can only get so much in, and the front of a 911 doesn't make it easy to get flow out.

Maybe just popping one out there in any fashion will be enough. Hopefully. I always like to look for a 100% solution because the easy way rarely works well enough. Do it once.

That will be made easier with the right bumper. Some are helpful and some are not. The 934/RSR type that Gary has projects out and gives you more room to get the cooler away from the front bulkhead. I'd only get the one with the turn signal holes if you want lamps. Otherwise GT makes a smoothie too.

BAT is definitely the main source for all the goodies. Everyone who sells them gets the conversion fittings from them anyway, so... Specifically the metric-to-AN adapters to take your hoses off the hard lines in the R/F fender well. The Mocal stuff works well. Setrab also works well. I've used both to good effect.

I get my hose end fittings from the local speed shop. It is a real trick to get the right ones because what you end up needing is almost always at least 50% different than what you think going in. My guy just lets me take what I think I need, and then exchange for what I really need, and he bills me when I'm all done. Saves us both the paperwork! The 911 is pretty simple most times, and I think I only needed two 90* ends last time I did one.

Four detail items I would do are, 1) do a heavy screen with a small bug screen on top. The former for rocks/stones/rubber chunks, and the latter for grass, bugs, sand, etc. Coolers take a real beating on the track, and will plug up incredibly quickly. 2) you should seal the cooler to the bumper so that any air coming into the cooler cannot deflect away and miss it. Even if air can't really get out cleanly, you'll still get good benefit from forcing it all in. 3) Definitely rubber mount it. They don't like vibration. 4) You might think of getting away with -12, but -16 is closest to the size of the factory hard lines. The pieces get pretty expensive when they get that big, but -16 is better for a 911.

I've done cooler setups on varying cars, and ones that work well and hold up always take more work than you would think.

 

Thanks John

 

Sean, I would use the RUF style on the SC for a couple reasons. One, I know it fits and works well. The 934 style has those little holes for brake cooling that project back and it was a BUGGER to get it mounted with the cooler in place as the oil lines hit no matter where I put it. I may try running the lines into the trunk next time to get them out of the way, as even with the RUF style when you go to run brake cooling it's a PITA because of the lines.

 

I run the Mocal 72 on mine. I was running the stock oil cooler for a while and had consistent temps in the 209-210 range. I installed the Mocal (along with the stock cooler) and I've put several hours on it with it mounted a couple inches from the tub. Consistent temps are between 197-199. We're in the process of cutting the tub away behind the cooler but I really don't expect temps to drop much below 194-195.

I also removed the front turn signal and put in a screen for better air flow to the stock cooler.

Here's a pic

 

I was wondering why all of Dan's cars run that bumper. I was going to go with the IROC with a splitter because it looks like the aero would be better. Can you get a splitter on the RUF?

 

I've seen a plate added but it looked bad to me, other than that the shape isn't really well set for adding a piece at the bottom.. Remember what the G car that just ran a 2:13 at the Glen had on it THEN worry about the aero..

 

I'm pretty sure Mike was running a splitter??