Ski

Can anyone provide any "superior" reasons for one or the other? One manufacturers process, strength, design vs the other? We had a rod failure on #4, pretty nasty after the pan blew out and the proceeding fireball was quite large out the back. Car survived in tact, some scorched paint at the back, I was ok just my feelings hurt for giving my partner in the car, a broken race car to take back to his house, his year to keep it and do TX tracks.

jimculp

The Carrillos are supposed to have a better design for strength while the Pauters are supposed to have a better windage design. I don't think you can lose with either.

You have to trim your oil pump to make the Carrillos fit- you don't with the Pauters.

Carrillos are slightly more expensive.

Bull

I have used both in different race engines, and agree you can't go wrong with either. I would use whichever works best in the specific application in the future.

Juan Lopez

Pauter, have used both with better results with Pauter.

A.Wayne

Carillo are better rods, but pauter is also a very good rod , kind of on the heavy side but strong i have also used arrow rods , pretty decent and lighter than the pauter.

Is the broken rod from your race motor ? if so why was this engined not prepared for track use ?

Ski

It's just a DE car, been flawless for 3.5 years. Not sure what your calling race prepared but if you want to sponsor a budget....

Oil pan modified, pick up tube modified, twin oil coolers, Copper RSR clutch disc, Charlie arms, Koni Coil overs all four corners (800 & 700# springs), Big Blacks, brake cooling ducts direct to spindles/rotors, Racers Edge and Kelly Moss bushings/mounts, Kelly Moss Camber plates, LR solid motor mounts, LR head with o-ring, custom 3" to 4" exhaust, wastegate dump to atomsphere, extra gauges for oil/water temps, UEGO WBO2, dyno'd 351hp 347 ft lbs of torque @ 17psi, 2550# half a tank of gas - and we built it ourselves. Bought the car for $3200, sold the interior on ebay and paid for the car.

I'd personally say we got more than our moneys worth out of this engine, considering it does 12-16 DE sessions in a weekend; anywhere from 5-6 events a year since I am a partner in the car. With both of us at the track, running in white or blue or yellow group, I'd say we prepared it pretty well. The rod bearing on the #4 rod looks great. When it happened, we were all ready to blame the #2 bearing but that wasn't to be.

Geoffrey

I think you need to examine why the connecting rod broke. Often it is not the rod itself, but some other reason, although the connecting rod gets blamed nonetheless.

Ski

Yeah, we have been. Rod was smooth as silk on the crank, after it was dislodged from the counter weight. Head gasket and upper seals were done in January, bores inspected and all were nice and smooth. All the parts from valves, plug electrodes - all present in the head. Piston is still in the bore, just ran out of time the other day. Spare crank will get perp drilled on 2 and 3, and probably go with Pauter rods, probably add a crank scraper and windage screen. New pistons are in hand and one of our spare blocks will go to the machine shop in a couple of weeks.

A.Wayne

Well it does look like you had the rod beams polished, did you blow your headgasket , before the rod failed ?

Ski

no, water jacket was intact and expansion tank went down to normal cool level after the car cooled down.