Loading a lowered car into a trailer?
#1
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Loading a lowered car into a trailer?
What is the best way to load a car that has a splitter which only sits 2 inches above the ground? I have two 12 inch by 10 foot boards but the splitter still gets hung up on the ramp when entering + exiting the trailer.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#2
I saw some nice ramps at Discountramps.com The 8ft units with the knife edge
I have a similar issue. I was think to use these along with some additional approach ramps to get the clearance. Otherwise you have to keep experimenting
I have a similar issue. I was think to use these along with some additional approach ramps to get the clearance. Otherwise you have to keep experimenting
#3
Although my car isn't as low as yours I still had to replace my ramp with a set from BSE Trailerworks
You can find them here:
http://www.bsetrailerworks.com/
Their Pro series will work on virtually any car.
You can find them here:
http://www.bsetrailerworks.com/
Their Pro series will work on virtually any car.
#4
Nordschleife Master
You can also buy something called a trailer door bumper lift which is an aluminum piece that bolts to the outside of the door at the top. This essentially raises the door since now it sits on the aluminum lift and decreases the angle of attack. www.pitproducts.com sells them.
#5
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A common solution around the local track is to mount the splitter/spoiler/etc with dzus fasteners... or I've even seen it done with industrial strength velcro!!! Bumper/spoiler assemblies that pivot up at the front/top work well too.
Mine is just a very flexible length of bright red rubber conveyor belting - but is just an air dam, lacks the splitter functionality.
Quick-release spoilers are also handy for the occasional off-course-excursion...
Mine is just a very flexible length of bright red rubber conveyor belting - but is just an air dam, lacks the splitter functionality.
Quick-release spoilers are also handy for the occasional off-course-excursion...
#6
Racer
I have the same problem. I have 2X10inch X 6 foot boards with helper boards on them plus guide boards in front of these plus I put a board under the ramps to lessen the angle of the 8 foot trailer ramps. I also lower the trailer support wheel to jack up the front of the trailer as much as possible. With all this done..hoping I am on somewhat level ground..my splitter clears by about an 1/8 inch if I load and unload slowly...
Pete
Pete
#7
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i have a pitpal 5 foot long ramp nealy as wide as the whole ramp door.
Very well made alumunim.
I have extremely low clearance and i can winch mine in fine.
However, I still have to remove my very low splitter.
http://www.pitpal.com/index.php?p=pr...=550&parent=37
Norm
Very well made alumunim.
I have extremely low clearance and i can winch mine in fine.
However, I still have to remove my very low splitter.
http://www.pitpal.com/index.php?p=pr...=550&parent=37
Norm
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#8
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I just raise up the nose of my trailer so that the back drops down. It allows me to use very short helper ramps and it lowers the angle of the door enough for my spoiler to clear.
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Larry Herman
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#9
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Remove the splitter. Our entire front bumper/splitter assembly comes off with 4 bolts and 2 Zeus fasteners. Not only does it make loading a lot easier, but it's also quite a bit easier to get straps to the front tie-down points on the front subframe.
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
I just raise up the nose of my trailer so that the back drops down. It allows me to use very short helper ramps and it lowers the angle of the door enough for my spoiler to clear.
+1
#11
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I've seen guys back their truck onto ramps thus raising the front of the trailer & lowering the rear for a more shallow AOA for the ramp. A bit of fooling around could the rear of the trailer to the ground.
#12
Race Car
I'll second the Pitpal ramps, they work great! The BSE stuff just isn't designed well enough for my tastes, no support for the main part of the ramp, and yes, they FLEX with that design...for that price, should have a little better design, IMHO.
There is a guy up in Pa. that makes the most incredible set of ramps I've ever seen, but they are about $750 - I'll have to list his info. if I can find it later today.
OH, and the Pitproducts trailer door bumpers are a great design, simple and not too pricey, that's how to get your trailer door angle adjusted properly, in my book.
There is a guy up in Pa. that makes the most incredible set of ramps I've ever seen, but they are about $750 - I'll have to list his info. if I can find it later today.
OH, and the Pitproducts trailer door bumpers are a great design, simple and not too pricey, that's how to get your trailer door angle adjusted properly, in my book.
#13
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Originally Posted by J P Stein
I've seen guys back their truck onto ramps thus raising the front of the trailer & lowering the rear for a more shallow AOA for the ramp. A bit of fooling around could the rear of the trailer to the ground.
This is probably the most inexpensive way assuming your current ramps would still function properly with the new angle.
#14
Race Car
Originally Posted by Larry Herman
I just raise up the nose of my trailer so that the back drops down. It allows me to use very short helper ramps and it lowers the angle of the door enough for my spoiler to clear.
+2
I have an open traier, and have 2 of the plastic drive on type ramps sold at pep boys.
I backup the truck onto the ramps, with the trailer attached. raises the trailer, while lowering the rear.
key is putting the ramps against the rear tires before backing up the ramps.
disconnecting the trailer and using an electric jack has similar effect.
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I had a similiar problem, despite the trailer door extension (about 4' long if I recall; still have it soomewhere) that came with the CargoPro; I removed it and added individual 6' ramps, which work fine (I got tired of the lumber yard approach to loading, especially after almost spinning the car off of the wet wooden ramps I was using one rainy day).
If I was doing it again, I would get a single wide ramp rather than the 2 seperate ramps I have now, though I have (yet) to get close to missing the ramp.
Using a winch so that I could see what I was doing would make it easier.
As noted above, you will need to experiment; my splitter is probably higher than yours.
If I was doing it again, I would get a single wide ramp rather than the 2 seperate ramps I have now, though I have (yet) to get close to missing the ramp.
Using a winch so that I could see what I was doing would make it easier.
As noted above, you will need to experiment; my splitter is probably higher than yours.