bbh03

Hi all:

I just picked up an enclosed V-nose trailer and have some questions about some modifications I'd like to make.

I'd like to wire in a winch, but don't want to use a stand alone battery that needs charging. Is there a way to wire a trailer battery to be charged by the tow vehicle?

When running 110v wiring in the trailer, what type of wire is recommended? Armored cable or is Romex okay? I'd like to avoid conduit due to weight.

Lastly, this v-nose leaves none of the frame exposed by the hitch (other than the ball attachment and jack). Can any kind of load distributing hitch be installed from the underside? The ones I have found usually have part of the trailer frame clamps above the frame (which would be inside the trailer nose in this case).

Any advice would be appreciated!

Brian

ltc

Your 7 pin connector may have a switched battery/acc connection, which would be used to charge your battery while the tow vehicle is running. IIRC, this is how some trailers charge the electric brake break away battery.

For wire, UF (direct burial) Romex at a minimum, although you don't have to run Romex; you could run SJ/SJT cord.

f1rocks

It takes a quite a few winch pulls to run down a standard car battery. I've gone months, using the winch fairly frequently and it doesn't drop much. I would just pull the battery and charge once in a while.

Bri Bro

Might want to look into solar charges for remote battery hookups. Lead acid battery like to be toped off if you want them to last.
http://www.batterystuff.com/solar-chargers

ltc

I would not recommend storing/driving around with an unsealed (conventional) lead acid battery in the trailer.
I would suggest an AGM (sealed) battery, like an Optima or equivalent. You can get good pricing on eBay. An Optima Yellow Top would be good for this application (infrequent charging/occasional use)

bbh03

Thanks everyone - looks like I have some options on the battery. If I run without charging from the car and it goes dead, will that shorten the battery life? As in charging it from full drain?

Is SJ lighter than romex? I think it has a more durable sheathing...

ltc

An AGM battery (like an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle) tends to survive deep discharge cycles better than a 'standard' battery.
With zero load applied, you'd be amazed how long it can hold a decent charge, but, as in all batteries, an occasional charge and/or trickle charge is preferred.

If you are running an Optima/AGM in your track car, then having one in the trailer for the winch can also act as a 'spare' for the track car.

SJ is round with a decent jacket (there are several available, rubber, PVC, etc) and has waterproof connectors. Romex UF is flattened and not quite as easy for waterproof connectors.
If I were doing the project (re: as an electrical engineer, electrician, geek), I'd probably use the SJ/SJT and some rubberized clamps to hold it to the frame; rather than use Romex.

kgorman

Apparently a lot of the RV guys recommend dual 6v golf cart batteries wired in series, and charged by the tow vehicle.

bbh03

Thanks, sounds good. Do you know what type of plug is normally available at tracks to plug into shore power? Is it a normal 15 amp outlet?

I wonder what would be the benefit of 2x6V batteries? Maybe they're cheap and/or light?

bbh03

Well, they certainly aren't cheap: http://www.batteriesplus.com/showpro...h-sae-terminal

AlpharettaRK

If all you need the battery in the trailer for is to power the winch, Warn makes a kit to run wires from you tow vehicle battery to a quick-connect you mount on the rear bumper. It comes with a solenoid and a switch so the connector is not live until you need it. I used one and it works great. You never have to worry about charging the battery in your trailer.

ltc

Another option is to simply buy a generator and charge your battery while at the track. Should be OK between events.

If you are looking at generators, I would strongly suggest the Honda 2000i
http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/M...elName=eu2000i
FWIW, I got mine from a Honda dealer on eBay for $899.
Unbelievably quiet (trust me, there's nothing like having trailers parked next to one another at the kart track with old fashioned loud, noisy generators running for 12 hours), reliable.....typical Honda.
You can parallel 2 of them together for 4000 watts if necessary.

thusly

Welcome to trailering! I would highly suggest installing a dual cam sway control stabilizer to your trailer. It will significantly minimize sway caused by passing tractor trailers and other cargo type trucks. My first experience was as scary as ANY track driving I have done by a factor of 10. The situation was made worse by: not having enough tongue weight on the trailer; not having the brake controller set up correctly; and driving a cargo trailer for the first time. Looked in the mirror one time and saw that the cargo trailer was swaying side to side three feet as a large semi passed at 70mph.

Check out more on the dual cam sway device: http://www.reese-hitches.com/sway_co...ual%20Cam%20HP

A number of articles are written regarding trailering and set up; here is one http://www.womanmotorist.com/index.p...657/event=view

Safe travels!

bbh03

I had planned to put an equalizer hitch on (recommended over the dual cam by the local dealer, although he sells both). It is going to be tricky to install but I know I need to. When I towed it home, I did not see any sway (happened to be a windy day too), but I felt myself scissoring the steering more than normal.

Re: generator, I like the idea of charging off of the generator, but I think i need 3000 watts if I'm going to run an AC unti in the trailer eventually. Unless someone knows of a decent lower-output AC of heat pump.

ltc

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/M...lName=eu3000is
or
http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/M...Name=eu6500isa