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Help with ordering new ATC trailer please

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Old 12-05-2006, 09:42 PM
  #16  
DrJupeman
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E track for tie downs? Don't the tracks get filled with grit?

I have the 5200# axles, purchased for larger wheel bearings. No issue with ride, though who knows what it is doing to the subframe (trailer is 4 years old, no issues).
Old 12-05-2006, 09:47 PM
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Rick
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I'd consider the following (I'm a 3 year ATC owner)...

V-Nose
Lots of E-track (certainly on the walls...and consider on the floors as well).
Winch (at least prep by putting in the box)
Electric tongue jack

Other than that, I think you're on the right track - don't take anything off of your list.

Rick

Originally Posted by Chris L.
After all the help here I placed an order today for a 24 foot ATC. Here is how I set her up. Any suggestions/comments?

1. 24' with 2 5200#Torsion Axles
2. 6" inches extra height bringing it to 7.0 feet
3. Premium package (.050 ext. screwless, extruded floor/ramp, insulated aluminum walls/ceiling.)
4. 110V package #2 (the big one)
5. 48" side door
6. 54" X 48" escape door
7. 5' X 72" ramp extension with bumpers
8. Aluminum wheels
9. In floor spare tire compartment
10. Rear caster wheels
11. Front and Rear scissor jacks
12. 12" extended tongue
13. In floor winch box
14. L shaped lower cabinet
15. Craftsman tool cabinet, built in
16. Upper cabinet
17. Dresser closet
18. Insulated generator box with hinged outside generator door.

Yes I know it's loaded but this "ain't for no dirt track car."

Because of the .050 outside aluminum I am limited in color choices. Can't go wrong with white but I have chosen their lightest metallic gray with white interior and matching gray cabinets.

It is for my 05 GT3 with the thought that there may be a cup car in there one day... possibly.

I tow with a 2006 GMC 2500 Duramax diesel/Allison transmission crew cab.

Thanks as always.

Old 12-05-2006, 09:53 PM
  #18  
Crazy Canuck
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Off the top of my head you may want to consider the following:

- slider for generator (cooling - especially for air cooled generator) compartment if generator not installed in trailer
- Helmet rack (pitpal has these)
- Flashlight holder, jack holder etc. (pitpal)

5200# axles will be what you want considering a finished interior, generator, cabinets etc. They ride fine.
Old 12-05-2006, 10:42 PM
  #19  
Chris L.
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Originally Posted by A930Rocket
Oh! And make sure that tongue jack has a wheel so when you jack it up and the trailer rolls down your driveway, you can add it to "Lessons Learned" next year. LOL


Leave it to you Jim to remind me of that horrible day "ONE MORE TIME!"

Thanks man.
Old 12-05-2006, 10:47 PM
  #20  
Chris L.
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Originally Posted by Rick
I'd consider the following (I'm a 3 year ATC owner)...

V-Nose
Lots of E-track (certainly on the walls...and consider on the floors as well).
Winch (at least prep by putting in the box)
Electric tongue jack

Other than that, I think you're on the right track - don't take anything off of your list.

Rick

1. I don't recall them offering an electric tongue jack. They do have a regular 7200# tongue jack for something like $150 and a hydraulic tongue jack for something like $900!!!! Do I need this if the scissor jacks are there?

2. Is the E-track something that can added later or is it best to get it from the factory?

3. The guys at ATC say that their flat nose trailer with the rolled top actually pulls as well as if not better than the V-nose so I did not order the nose. Don't know if that is correct...
Old 12-05-2006, 10:49 PM
  #21  
Chris L.
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
Off the top of my head you may want to consider the following:

- slider for generator (cooling - especially for air cooled generator) compartment if generator not installed in trailer
- Helmet rack (pitpal has these)
- Flashlight holder, jack holder etc. (pitpal)

5200# axles will be what you want considering a finished interior, generator, cabinets etc. They ride fine.


Thanks Chris... Dell told me how much you helped him with his purchase.
Old 12-05-2006, 10:51 PM
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Crazy Canuck
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Originally Posted by Chris L.
1. I don't recall them offering an electric tongue jack. They do have a regular 7200# tongue jack for something like $150 and a hydraulic tongue jack for something like $900!!!! Do I need this if the scissor jacks are there?

2. Is the E-track something that can added later or is it best to get it from the factory?
Electric tongue jacks can be installed afterwards. They are about $300. Just be sure to get one with a manual backup in case the electric stops working.

E-Track is MUCH better installed at the factory. Get it flush mounted not surface mounted. Only problem is that you have to tell them where you want it.

Rear corner post stabilizing jacks aren't a bad idea either.

Spare Tire & rim with mount on tongue, inside or in a compartment under the floor.

Get an awning. One sunburn or drenching rain will convince you of its merit.

Extended ramp or ramp extensions for your low car?
Old 12-05-2006, 10:52 PM
  #23  
BrianKeithSmith
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Christian20:

Can you post a pic by any chance, of what you described here:
A suggestion on the tire rack is to use e-track and shoring beams. Essentially you mount the e-track to the wall of the trailer over the nose of the car then clip in shoring beams perendicular to the e-track. A racer friend of mine showed me his set up in his Rennegade-Elevator combo and it works great. Added benefit is you can unclip the beams and you have an open box again. I use this in my 24' featherlite without any issues.
Old 12-05-2006, 10:53 PM
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Folding tire racks?
Old 12-05-2006, 11:12 PM
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A couple of pics of the inside of my new Pace V-Nose with E-track on the floors and walls, and 2 sets of folding tire racks..... Oh and allow me to be the first to call BS on the "our flat nose with the rounded top pulls as good as if not better than our V-nose trailer." Bull!



Old 12-05-2006, 11:16 PM
  #26  
38D
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You should put some roll bar padding on the tire racks, as sooner or later you will bash your head on one.
Old 12-05-2006, 11:32 PM
  #27  
Chris L.
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Originally Posted by Crazy Canuck
Electric tongue jacks can be installed afterwards. They are about $300. Just be sure to get one with a manual backup in case the electric stops working.

E-Track is MUCH better installed at the factory. Get it flush mounted not surface mounted. Only problem is that you have to tell them where you want it.

Rear corner post stabilizing jacks aren't a bad idea either.

Spare Tire & rim with mount on tongue, inside or in a compartment under the floor.

Get an awning. One sunburn or drenching rain will convince you of its merit.

Extended ramp or ramp extensions for your low car?

1. Do I need the rear corner stabilizing jacks ALONG with the scissor or are the scissor enough?
2. Awning being done by the trailer company in house so I can put it where I need it.
3. Extended 5' ramp with some coin rubber covering it ONLY as it is smooth aluminum.


WHERE DO I NEED TO PUT THE E-TRACK OR IS THAT JUST TOO USER SPECIFIC?

DO I NEED A V NOSE OR NOT? I understand it would seem to be much easier to tow. It will not allow for the craftsman built in tool cabinet that I really wanted.

DO I WANT THE ATC FOLDING TIRE RACKS OR ARE THE PIT PAL/PIT PRODUCTS OR SUCH BETTER? I don't want something that is a PITA to fold up and down like a Pit Pal unit I saw at the track this past weekend.
Old 12-05-2006, 11:53 PM
  #28  
Crazy Canuck
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Originally Posted by Chris L.
1. Do I need the rear corner stabilizing jacks ALONG with the scissor or are the scissor enough?
Either or.

Originally Posted by Chris L.
2. Awning being done by the trailer company in house so I can put it where I need it.
Good idea.

Originally Posted by Chris L.
3. Extended 5' ramp with some coin rubber covering it ONLY as it is smooth aluminum.
Good.

Originally Posted by Chris L.
WHERE DO I NEED TO PUT THE E-TRACK OR IS THAT JUST TOO USER SPECIFIC?
It can be pretty user specific. Any trailer dealer who is in the game can offer suggestions. Get a layout of the trailer and draw in how you plan to set the trailer up. Ask the dealer and anybody else you know who uses trailers regularly. Users on this forum can offer insight but we'll have 1000 different opinions. It can be installed later if need be without any problem just that it will be surface mount.

Originally Posted by Chris L.
DO I NEED A V NOSE OR NOT? I understand it would seem to be much easier to tow. It will not allow for the craftsman built in tool cabinet that I really wanted.
Up to you. I usually tow a 28' Pace Shadow Daytona behind a 2002 GMC 2500HD Duramax. It's more than fine. No V-Nose. The truck breaks most of the wind. If you're doing lots of distance V-Nose may be better because there is less frontal area. V-nose guys tend to swear by them. The two main negatives are cost and increased tongue weight.

We used to have one. Don't anymore. Don't really miss it. Biggest sellers are flat front.

If you do get one be sure that it has the pegs on the tongue to accept the chains for a weight distribution system. Otherwise you won't be able to use one.

Originally Posted by Chris L.
DO I WANT THE ATC FOLDING TIRE RACKS OR ARE THE PIT PAL/PIT PRODUCTS OR SUCH BETTER? I don't want something that is a PITA to fold up and down like a Pit Pal unit I saw at the track this past weekend.
Get the ATC. Factory installed is usually better. Plus they warranty the thing.
Old 12-06-2006, 07:51 AM
  #29  
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ATC factory tire racks are fine/great, get those. As Colin said, put padding on them so you don't need stitches some day (ask me how I know).
Old 12-06-2006, 08:15 AM
  #30  
Chris L.
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Thanks again everyone.


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