Building the Ultimate 944 Cup....?
11-04-2006, 04:44 PM
#46
Originally Posted by bgiere
Hi Mike! Go Bee's!
What about bushings? Any recommendations? Racer's Edge? Lindsey?
What about bushings? Any recommendations? Racer's Edge? Lindsey?
11-04-2006, 04:51 PM
#47
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have the RE setup in the rear, very happy with the stuff, excellent quality, easy to swap over to new trailing arms after I bend them. The front spherical setup, I have a cheaper press-in set from Shine, and while they work great, they don't have the same swap-ability as the more expensive RE stuff. Next set of a-arms I bend, I'll have to get new RE bearings. 
11-05-2006, 07:59 AM
#49
Originally Posted by bgiere
Leave the power steering or should I get a mnual rack?
blonds or redheads
pro-life or pro-choice
This choice has fervant believers on both sides of the fence.
manual has less maintenance and better feel. However, some claim that it makes the car harder to catch and "throw around" a tight track.
power is harder to maintain, arguably less feel, but you supposedly can control the car more easily.
I personally have manual. Some people contacted me privately after my wreck at watkins glen and suggested that I "might" have been able to catch the car more easily had I had power steering.
11-06-2006, 09:47 AM
#52
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by TD in DC
I personally have manual. Some people contacted me privately after my wreck at watkins glen and suggested that I "might" have been able to catch the car more easily had I had power steering.
Have you noticed much difference between real manual and the disabled power rack you had before? I understand the gearing is sligtly different. I'm revisiting my thoughts on thebuying a manual rack. I had a GREAT weekend, but my arms haven't been this sore since my first event in the 911.
11-06-2006, 09:47 AM
#53
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by bgiere
Do most 944 racers use an Accusump or is that not necessary?
11-06-2006, 09:49 AM
#55
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by VaSteve
Have you noticed much difference between real manual and the disabled power rack you had before? I understand the gearing is sligtly different.
11-06-2006, 09:51 AM
#56
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by VaSteve
DD, where does the slight HP gain come from, less drag on the cranshaft pulley? It has to be minimal, isn't it?
How much extra HP are we talking about?
How much extra HP are we talking about?
Also one less thing to break: the belt. And one less thing to leak.
11-06-2006, 09:53 AM
#57
Originally Posted by bgiere
Do most 944 racers use an Accusump or is that not necessary?
blonds or redheads
pro-life or pro-choice
This choice has fervant believers on both sides of the fence.
I had an accusump, which by all accounts was installed correctly and functioning as designed, when I spun my #2 rod bearing and ruined my first engine. I was so pissed after spending the money to prevent exactly that from happening that I ripped it out and have not reinstalled it. Can't tell you whether that was a wise choice or not, but I will rely on being a little extra "maniacle" about maintenance . . .
11-06-2006, 09:54 AM
#58
Originally Posted by VaSteve
Have you noticed much difference between real manual and the disabled power rack you had before? I understand the gearing is sligtly different. I'm revisiting my thoughts on thebuying a manual rack. I had a GREAT weekend, but my arms haven't been this sore since my first event in the 911.
If your arms are sore, it's just a sign that you need to get to the gym!!
11-06-2006, 09:57 AM
#59
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by TD in DC
I haven't put it on the car yet.
If your arms are sore, it's just a sign that you need to get to the gym!!
If your arms are sore, it's just a sign that you need to get to the gym!!
Yes, that's on the winter projects list. LOL
11-06-2006, 10:09 AM
#60
Rennlist Member
From a past thread regarding Accusumps:
Originally Posted by Chris White
Let see if I can cover the questions about the Accusump in one post…
First off it is important to understand a couple of things –
1) at stock ‘max’ oil level (by dipstick mark) the oil level is with in an inch of the crank (top of the lower sump).
2) The reason for the rod bearing failure has nothing to do with the pick up being uncovered – this is not possible unless you run well over two quarts low. I was at the Glen earlier this year and checked on a 944 stock class race car that was next to me in the garage – no oil showing on the dipstick after a track session. Rod bearing did not destruct.
3) The ‘real’ reason for the rod bearing issue is the 90 degree ‘bend’ in the crankshaft oil drilling. This causes a severe flow problem along with a starvation due to centrifugal forces issue.
4) Aerating of the oil due to contact with the crank will aggravate item number 3, and you can’t prevent this unless you go to a dry sump system. Under braking (at least track braking at 1G) half of the oil in the pan will flow to the front on the engine – where there is only about ½” of clearance between the crank and the pan. At this point you are making Oil Margaritas!
The Accusump is a passive device that injects additional oil when a drop in pressure is sensed – it typically comes precharged to dump oil when the pressure drops below 40 psi. So when ever you drop below 40 psi it will add oil….for more Oil Margaritas!
As some folks have mentioned they lowered this precharge to 5-6 psi – I will give them credit for thinking of this but it won’t help the rod bearing issue – to defeat the starvation issue you need to keep the oil pressure as high as possible and the aeration as little as possible – adding oil at 5 psi will not help (it doesn’t really hurt either – once your engine is at 5 psi while out on the track you are toast anyway…)
The electronic valve is not an intelligent device – it is simply a remote on/off valve, it will not help the issue – but it does make for a nice preoiler.
So, I will agree that if you reduce the precharge of the accusump you are not doing any harm….but no good either. In worst case it just means that you will dump an extra 3 quarts of oil on the track if the engine blows!
And for those that don’t change the precharge level – your crank will hitting the oil anytime you are under 40 psi….Oil Margarits for all!
Chris White
First off it is important to understand a couple of things –
1) at stock ‘max’ oil level (by dipstick mark) the oil level is with in an inch of the crank (top of the lower sump).
2) The reason for the rod bearing failure has nothing to do with the pick up being uncovered – this is not possible unless you run well over two quarts low. I was at the Glen earlier this year and checked on a 944 stock class race car that was next to me in the garage – no oil showing on the dipstick after a track session. Rod bearing did not destruct.
3) The ‘real’ reason for the rod bearing issue is the 90 degree ‘bend’ in the crankshaft oil drilling. This causes a severe flow problem along with a starvation due to centrifugal forces issue.
4) Aerating of the oil due to contact with the crank will aggravate item number 3, and you can’t prevent this unless you go to a dry sump system. Under braking (at least track braking at 1G) half of the oil in the pan will flow to the front on the engine – where there is only about ½” of clearance between the crank and the pan. At this point you are making Oil Margaritas!
The Accusump is a passive device that injects additional oil when a drop in pressure is sensed – it typically comes precharged to dump oil when the pressure drops below 40 psi. So when ever you drop below 40 psi it will add oil….for more Oil Margaritas!
As some folks have mentioned they lowered this precharge to 5-6 psi – I will give them credit for thinking of this but it won’t help the rod bearing issue – to defeat the starvation issue you need to keep the oil pressure as high as possible and the aeration as little as possible – adding oil at 5 psi will not help (it doesn’t really hurt either – once your engine is at 5 psi while out on the track you are toast anyway…)
The electronic valve is not an intelligent device – it is simply a remote on/off valve, it will not help the issue – but it does make for a nice preoiler.
So, I will agree that if you reduce the precharge of the accusump you are not doing any harm….but no good either. In worst case it just means that you will dump an extra 3 quarts of oil on the track if the engine blows!
And for those that don’t change the precharge level – your crank will hitting the oil anytime you are under 40 psi….Oil Margarits for all!
Chris White