smlporsche

As the title line said I'm looking for suggestions on either making one or buying one to hold 4 extra track tires.

I'm also particularly interested in how it is mounted to the wall, i.e is it just srcewed to the studs or through bolted?

Also what's the best way to secure the tires once they're resting in the cradle?

Thanks in advance.

DrJupeman

I bought mine as built-in options from ATC when I ordered my trailer. As such I cannot recommend an "aftermarket" installer off the top of my head. I can tell you that mine are simply bolted into the studs. They are not "through bolted", which I think is ugly and should be avoided (also creates holes to the exterior of the trailer that might leak some day, etc).

RedlineMan

Hey;

- Install it on the PASSENGER side. I see guys put them on the driver's side, then constantly battle biffing their heads crawling around trying to get past it to get in/out of the car. Depending on where your car sits, in the back is preferable, as it leaves the front door area uncluttered. You spend more time coming in the side door than anywhere else, especially when travelling.

- I use angle iron or square tube, floor to ceiling, screwed in from top to bottom every 6" or so. If the top and bottom metal frame members are accessible, you can attach to them and not have to screw into the walls. I make the cradle so that it swings up and out of the way when not needed. A simple lynch pin holds it in the up position. This is not to be underestimated in its utility. Having an empty tire rack hanging out in the open mandates that you WILL brain yourself on it. Murphy's Law says so. You can use chain or cable to hold it extended. I prefer cable. A simple loop on each side upright accepts the hooks from a ratchet strap to hold them in. Simple. Efficient. Fairly non-invasive.

John H

I bought one from an afterkarket company I was referred to from this list. Do a search and you'll turn up the name. It is a nice rack but I just screwed up the mounting/self tapping screws. If you figure a way to mount it, let me know. I am unable to store the 8 wheels and ties it's made for because the middle bolts failed to hold. Good luck.

GT3 Nut

try pit pal products ( www.pitpal.com )

Rick

I'd also suggest you check out Pit Products (www.pitproducts.com) - I have their racks in my ATC trailer. They are very high quality and were reasonable in price - I have mine bolted in the very way that Charlie describes above.

Rick

VERBOTN

You may want to consider E-track and shoring beams. This method was introduced to me by my racer friend that uses it in his Renegade. Essentially take e-track and mount it to both sides of your trailer then installed adjustable shoring beams into the slots perpendicular to the e-track and you have an instant tire rack. I use this in my featherlite and I can hold 8 of my skinny tires or I can add more shoring beams and hold more. The rack is located directly over my front hood so it is not wasting space and if I want to use my trailer to carry something bulky I just unclip the shoring beams and the trailer is back to normal, no fuss. An added benefit to this method is that you can also string a hamock between the shoring beams if you want to take a siesta.

Cris Brady

I use the e-track and if you want to save even more money - always a great idea when you're a racer, means more money for tires - you can buy beam brackets and use 2x4's. Here's a pic. This is at the rear of my trailer.

Tom W

You could also forgo the rack completely and simply stack them on the floor and secure them with a strap or make a rolling rack for them that is secured with a strap. Either way you eliminate the need to lift them into place and don't have the rack to bang into when you are distracted by something else going on.

RickBetterley

I took the shoring beams route after a lot of research; just didn't like the idea of hanging 8 wheel/tires off of 1 side of the trailer (which is aluminum).
Process was:
The mounting is done with e-track (as you know); I used the full 10’ length to give me more attachment points to the interior studs (perhaps an excess of caution, but better too much than too little). E-track comes in unfinished aluminum so I painted it with a rust-resistant spray paint; it still chips off, though.
Could have mounted the e-track vertically but was concerned about all that load on just 2 studs per side.
Fasteners are into the 16” on center studs; I used self-drilling screws (14x1”) which you can put into a nut driver on the drill and zing into the studs. Studs are 1x2” per CargoPro, so the 1” depth is the maximum length of screw. You could consider using a construction adhesive as well, but I did not see the need.
Lateral supports are so-called load beams; you can get them in various lengths; mine are adjustable. Make sure you get the right length! E-track protrudes from the wall a bit.
Both e-track and cargo beams are available from many sources, especially cargo/trucking supply companies like Fleet Pride (it’s a national company I believe) and of course mail order.
Where you mount the track is up to you; mine are 36 ½” above floor level (measured to bottom of track), and the cross members are 20” apart, which looks just right for our tires; they nestle right in. This leaves 15” above the tires, though – I might prefer them closer to the ceiling but was concerned about bumping the center-mounted fluorescent light. I could go up 7” or so and still have plenty of room (there was also an issue of interference with side wall-mounted lights and switches so 36” ended up good; only downside is I have to stoop lower when crawling under the beams!).
You will need to use something to hold the tires down into the cross pieces; I used ratchet straps and it works well.
Can’t think of anything else to tell you; let me know if you have any questions.

RickBetterley

Are the trailer studs aluminum?
I took the shoring beams route after a lot of research; just didn't like the idea of hanging 8 wheel/tires off of 1 side of the trailer (which is aluminum).
Process was:
The mounting is done with e-track (as you know); I used the full 10’ length to give me more attachment points to the interior studs (perhaps an excess of caution, but better too much than too little). E-track comes in unfinished aluminum so I painted it with a rust-resistant spray paint; it still chips off, though.
Could have mounted the e-track vertically but was concerned about all that load on just 2 studs per side.
Fasteners are into the 16” on center studs; I used self-drilling screws (14x1”) which you can put into a nut driver on the drill and zing into the studs. Studs are 1x2” per CargoPro, so the 1” depth is the maximum length of screw. You could consider using a construction adhesive as well, but I did not see the need.
Lateral supports are so-called load beams; you can get them in various lengths; mine are adjustable. Make sure you get the right length! E-track protrudes from the wall a bit.
Both e-track and cargo beams are available from many sources, especially cargo/trucking supply companies like Fleet Pride (it’s a national company I believe) and of course mail order.
Where you mount the track is up to you; mine are 36 ½” above floor level (measured to bottom of track), and the cross members are 20” apart, which looks just right for our tires; they nestle right in. This leaves 15” above the tires, though – I might prefer them closer to the ceiling but was concerned about bumping the center-mounted fluorescent light. I could go up 7” or so and still have plenty of room (there was also an issue of interference with side wall-mounted lights and switches so 36” ended up good; only downside is I have to stoop lower when crawling under the beams!).
You will need to use something to hold the tires down into the cross pieces; I used ratchet straps and it works well.
Can’t think of anything else to tell you; let me know if you have any questions.