Team O'Neil Rally School -- Breakthrough for me!
08-07-2006, 10:54 AM
#1
Team O'Neil Rally School -- Breakthrough for me!
Last week I took the three-day rally class at the Team O'Neil Rally School in Dalton, NH. http://www.team-oneil.com/ I cannot say enough good things about the entire experience.
With a class size limited to 6 students with 4 instructors, including Tim O'Neil himself, the school gave hours and hours of seat time and personalized feedback. There really is nothing like Rally driving to teach you to drive with your feet (the steering wheel under most circumstances shouldn't be turned more than 90 degrees and is in the car merely to tell the car which way it should slide) and to left-foot brake correctly. Simply incredible.
First, it was a blast. Rally driving was incredible and way too much fun for my own good. The last thing I need is another addiction. I must say, though, that I don't think I can do enough pendulum turns . . .
Second, it was a week of breakthroughs for me. I know that much of what made the lights come on for me may seem obvious to those here who have been driving for years, but I think that it is easy for experienced drivers to forget how little they knew when they started, and how many things that seem obvious once you "understand" them just wouldn't occur to most drivers on their own.
This experience really changed the way I look at driving. Many of the prinicples and skills that they teach will have direct application in road racing, albeit application of those skills and techniques will, in many cases, be radically different. Here are just a few things that I learned last week (I can't list them all or the post would be longer than my typical posts
)
1. Do not drive your car by feel. When I used to watch the rally drivers, I thought that their incredible car control skills must be due to highly developed sense of feeling what their car was doing. I was shocked to hear Tim O'Neil telling me to stop driving the car by feel. He said that driving a car by feel is a mistake. Reacting to oversteer or understeer -- even if you have great reactions and car control skills -- will never be as fast as driving the car in a manner which prevents the oversteer or understeer from developing in the first place! Of course, you will have to react to the inevitable occurance of unexpected events (e.g., that slick spot), but if you drive by feel, you will always be a little behind. You need to KNOW YOUR CAR and drive it in a way that prevents oversteer and understeer from occuring, which is the only way to drive "in front of" the car. Car control is really about keeping the car away from excessive slip angles (for your purpose at the moment) rather than merely correcting excessive slip angles once they develop.
I honestly believe that I would not have wrecked at Watkins Glen if I had taken this course first. When most newbies start, they drive by connecting the dots between turn in, apex and track out. They then have an epiphany when they learn how to feel the car and manipulating the car based on suspension loadings, yaw angle, etc . . . I know that I had started driving by feel and reacting to what my car was telling me. Now, I will be trying to drive my car in a way that maximizes speed by staying way in front of what my car is trying to tell me.
2. The best way to manage weight transfers in cars is to learn to left-foot brake so that you can use the throttle and the brakes at the same time, and transition back and forth faster and more seamlessly between the two. Left foot braking is the bomb. Not only does it slash reaction time by at least 50%, the dynamics of throttle manipulation change dramatically when you are able to maintain braking forces on the car at the same time, even if only at 5-15% braking force. I learned that I was pretty good at throttle manipulation and fair to good at trail braking (hard to tell in the sloppy mud), but both of those techniques take on whole new dimensions when you combine braking and throttle.
3. There are many, many tools in the toolbox, so if one isn't working, try something else. It rained for the three days I was at the school, and it was great to be in a car while experienced drivers were trying to deal with the same slop I was dealing with. When they tried a technique that wasn't working, they simple went to the next one quickly to get the car to do what they wanted. Trailbraking not working? Throw the car into a pendulum turn. That not work enough? Blip the throttle. Still not enough? Grab the handbrake. OK, so some of these techniques will not work on the track, but the point is that while you are in the car, if something isn't working very well, don't just do "more" of that same thing . . . try something else and you may still make it through the problem situation pretty well.
4. The winningest drivers finish races. This sounds obvious I know, but Tim's point is that many of the "fastest" drivers do not regularly win races because they either wreck or break their cars. Goal number one is to finish the race. His principles are as follows (and in this order):
a) Stay on the Road (even if these means you back off a little) On road/track is relatively safe. Off road/track is populated by trees, rocks, people, concrete walls, etc . . ;
b) Don't Break the Car He is fanatical about this, and harassed most of us about staying in the clutch too long, even when starting the car in the mud. I can still hear him yelling "Get out of the clutch, get out of the clutch." Even when we were racing down very narrow dirt roads through the woods, he was looking at bumps and gulleys in the road and pointing out how it is far better to compromise the ultimate line in order to preserve your car rather than risk damaging your equipment. Guys who abuse their cars are idiots in the long run (and maybe in the short run as well);
c) Know Your Equipment. Your car is not like anyone else's car. What might work in one car will not work in another. You must get to know the car you are driving very, very well. We rotated cars constantly in the school, which was great for me since I have only driven 4 different cars on the track (my 996, my 944, the skip barber car at Laguna Seca, and the skip barber car at Lime Rock Park).
d) Know the Limits, Including Your Limits, Your Vehicle's Limits and the Road's Limits! Pretty obvious, but it is important to keep this in mind when you are pushing things like I try to do. He isn't saying that you shouldn't push yourself, but rather that you must know the limit before you can try to push it. This honestly hasn't been too much of a problem for me personally, but it is very important to keep in mind.
e) Drive Without Emotion. Again, I don't have too much of a problem with this . . . most of the time.
Ok, I could continue and rave about how three days of sliding cars and becoming comfortable with new car control techniques, particularly left foot braking, was so great, but I will stop now. Here are a few pics that I managed to snap with my camera phone.
With a class size limited to 6 students with 4 instructors, including Tim O'Neil himself, the school gave hours and hours of seat time and personalized feedback. There really is nothing like Rally driving to teach you to drive with your feet (the steering wheel under most circumstances shouldn't be turned more than 90 degrees and is in the car merely to tell the car which way it should slide) and to left-foot brake correctly. Simply incredible.
First, it was a blast. Rally driving was incredible and way too much fun for my own good. The last thing I need is another addiction. I must say, though, that I don't think I can do enough pendulum turns . . .
Second, it was a week of breakthroughs for me. I know that much of what made the lights come on for me may seem obvious to those here who have been driving for years, but I think that it is easy for experienced drivers to forget how little they knew when they started, and how many things that seem obvious once you "understand" them just wouldn't occur to most drivers on their own.
This experience really changed the way I look at driving. Many of the prinicples and skills that they teach will have direct application in road racing, albeit application of those skills and techniques will, in many cases, be radically different. Here are just a few things that I learned last week (I can't list them all or the post would be longer than my typical posts
)1. Do not drive your car by feel. When I used to watch the rally drivers, I thought that their incredible car control skills must be due to highly developed sense of feeling what their car was doing. I was shocked to hear Tim O'Neil telling me to stop driving the car by feel. He said that driving a car by feel is a mistake. Reacting to oversteer or understeer -- even if you have great reactions and car control skills -- will never be as fast as driving the car in a manner which prevents the oversteer or understeer from developing in the first place! Of course, you will have to react to the inevitable occurance of unexpected events (e.g., that slick spot), but if you drive by feel, you will always be a little behind. You need to KNOW YOUR CAR and drive it in a way that prevents oversteer and understeer from occuring, which is the only way to drive "in front of" the car. Car control is really about keeping the car away from excessive slip angles (for your purpose at the moment) rather than merely correcting excessive slip angles once they develop.
I honestly believe that I would not have wrecked at Watkins Glen if I had taken this course first. When most newbies start, they drive by connecting the dots between turn in, apex and track out. They then have an epiphany when they learn how to feel the car and manipulating the car based on suspension loadings, yaw angle, etc . . . I know that I had started driving by feel and reacting to what my car was telling me. Now, I will be trying to drive my car in a way that maximizes speed by staying way in front of what my car is trying to tell me.
2. The best way to manage weight transfers in cars is to learn to left-foot brake so that you can use the throttle and the brakes at the same time, and transition back and forth faster and more seamlessly between the two. Left foot braking is the bomb. Not only does it slash reaction time by at least 50%, the dynamics of throttle manipulation change dramatically when you are able to maintain braking forces on the car at the same time, even if only at 5-15% braking force. I learned that I was pretty good at throttle manipulation and fair to good at trail braking (hard to tell in the sloppy mud), but both of those techniques take on whole new dimensions when you combine braking and throttle.
3. There are many, many tools in the toolbox, so if one isn't working, try something else. It rained for the three days I was at the school, and it was great to be in a car while experienced drivers were trying to deal with the same slop I was dealing with. When they tried a technique that wasn't working, they simple went to the next one quickly to get the car to do what they wanted. Trailbraking not working? Throw the car into a pendulum turn. That not work enough? Blip the throttle. Still not enough? Grab the handbrake. OK, so some of these techniques will not work on the track, but the point is that while you are in the car, if something isn't working very well, don't just do "more" of that same thing . . . try something else and you may still make it through the problem situation pretty well.
4. The winningest drivers finish races. This sounds obvious I know, but Tim's point is that many of the "fastest" drivers do not regularly win races because they either wreck or break their cars. Goal number one is to finish the race. His principles are as follows (and in this order):
a) Stay on the Road (even if these means you back off a little) On road/track is relatively safe. Off road/track is populated by trees, rocks, people, concrete walls, etc . . ;
b) Don't Break the Car He is fanatical about this, and harassed most of us about staying in the clutch too long, even when starting the car in the mud. I can still hear him yelling "Get out of the clutch, get out of the clutch." Even when we were racing down very narrow dirt roads through the woods, he was looking at bumps and gulleys in the road and pointing out how it is far better to compromise the ultimate line in order to preserve your car rather than risk damaging your equipment. Guys who abuse their cars are idiots in the long run (and maybe in the short run as well);
c) Know Your Equipment. Your car is not like anyone else's car. What might work in one car will not work in another. You must get to know the car you are driving very, very well. We rotated cars constantly in the school, which was great for me since I have only driven 4 different cars on the track (my 996, my 944, the skip barber car at Laguna Seca, and the skip barber car at Lime Rock Park).
d) Know the Limits, Including Your Limits, Your Vehicle's Limits and the Road's Limits! Pretty obvious, but it is important to keep this in mind when you are pushing things like I try to do. He isn't saying that you shouldn't push yourself, but rather that you must know the limit before you can try to push it. This honestly hasn't been too much of a problem for me personally, but it is very important to keep in mind.
e) Drive Without Emotion. Again, I don't have too much of a problem with this . . . most of the time.
Ok, I could continue and rave about how three days of sliding cars and becoming comfortable with new car control techniques, particularly left foot braking, was so great, but I will stop now. Here are a few pics that I managed to snap with my camera phone.
Last edited by TD in DC; 08-07-2006 at 12:05 PM.
08-07-2006, 11:46 AM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the insights, Tod. Your post reminds me of how some of the best Moto GP riders train on the dirt to improve their on track performance.
08-07-2006, 12:02 PM
#4
Thanks Eric. Training on the dirt is so helpful because it exaggerates everything, slowing it down and drawing it out. I had always been nervous about trying to left foot brake on the track, but it was much easier to become comfortable with left foot braking in the dirt. Now I plan to try it on the track. Of course I will start out very, very conservatively and only in corners where I can afford to make a mistake. My biggest fear at this point is not the smoothness of my braking input, but rather fear that you could hit the clutch instead of the brake, or the brake instead of the clutch, which is easy to do while you are learning. Neither of those mistakes would be pretty on the track, so I plan to start slowly and only in those corners where I have plenty of "prep" time.
08-07-2006, 12:40 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by TD in DC
2. The best way to manage weight transfers in cars is to learn to left-foot brake so that you can use the throttle and the brakes at the same time, and transition back and forth faster and more seamlessly between the two. Left foot braking is the bomb. Not only does it slash reaction time by at least 50%, the dynamics of throttle manipulation change dramatically when you are able to maintain braking forces on the car at the same time, even if only at 5-15% braking force. I learned that I was pretty good at throttle manipulation and fair to good at trail braking (hard to tell in the sloppy mud), but both of those techniques take on whole new dimensions when you combine braking and throttle.
08-07-2006, 12:50 PM
#6
Loved the write-up, but this is the one thing I dont think translates from Rally to Road Racing. I don't think left foot braking is at all important for road racing.
08-07-2006, 01:06 PM
#7
Race Director
I don't LFB at all. Most places I brake on the track also have at least one gear change this making LFB difficult. There are a few places however I probably shoud(or at least could) LFB.
Those are places where I don't down shift and tend to use the brakes to slightly slow or adjust the balance of the car.
However, it is a tool that I am lacking. Since I do not have access to LFB on track it make be costing me time. How much depends on alot of factors including the track, car, and your LFB skill. I think standard braking is much better than crappy LFB, however you can't learn LFB unless you try so...
Those are places where I don't down shift and tend to use the brakes to slightly slow or adjust the balance of the car.
However, it is a tool that I am lacking. Since I do not have access to LFB on track it make be costing me time. How much depends on alot of factors including the track, car, and your LFB skill. I think standard braking is much better than crappy LFB, however you can't learn LFB unless you try so...
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08-07-2006, 02:35 PM
#8
Colin,
I used to think just like you do about LFB. I swear though that, if done properly, you could probably use it more than you think. The rally guys drive with their left foot over the brake at all times (except of course when shifting) so it is ready at a moment's notice. Their reaction times are much better when they drive like this than they would be if they just used their left foot for the clutch. Like Cris said, it is just another weapon in your arsenal. Funny but the turns Cris listed are exactly the ones I have in mind for Summit Point. I also think it would be enormously helpful at Shenandoah circuit.
Under some circumstances, using 5-10% braking while on full throttle can help to settle the car, smooth out your inputs, and either soften or amplify your throttle inputs depending upon your needs. I bet you could use it even in your car under some circumstances. I am thinking, for example, of the right hander after the bustop at Watkins Glen. With left foot braking it "might" be possible to exit the busstop with full throttle (or at least "more" throttle) and maintain this throttle position (apart maybe from a blip or two) by using LFB to keep the car from washing out. I think it is less upsetting to release the brake gently while on full throttle than it is to transition from right-foot-braking, or even a throttle lift, to full throttle.
Of course, a single three day class certainly does not make me an expert by any means. I am just saying that I went from being semi-skeptical as to its importance to realizing that, done correctly, it could be a very effective tool . . .
I have been trying to drive all of my cars now, even on the street, with my left foot held right above the brake pedal. When I do need to downshift, I move my right foot over to the brake, heel/toe like usual, move my left foot over to the brake pedal when shifting is completed, and then move my right foot back over the gas. The only problem I have with the 996 is that the clutch pedal is higher than the brake pedal (which is perfect for heel/toeing). I would like to lower the clutch pedal so that they are all roughly level like they are in the rally cars. In any event, with practice, I think this could become second nature despite the fact that it sounds (and seems) complicated at first. After all, I used to think that heel/toeing and rev-matching was really confusing and complicated. Now, I just do it without thinking . . .
I used to think just like you do about LFB. I swear though that, if done properly, you could probably use it more than you think. The rally guys drive with their left foot over the brake at all times (except of course when shifting) so it is ready at a moment's notice. Their reaction times are much better when they drive like this than they would be if they just used their left foot for the clutch. Like Cris said, it is just another weapon in your arsenal. Funny but the turns Cris listed are exactly the ones I have in mind for Summit Point. I also think it would be enormously helpful at Shenandoah circuit.
Under some circumstances, using 5-10% braking while on full throttle can help to settle the car, smooth out your inputs, and either soften or amplify your throttle inputs depending upon your needs. I bet you could use it even in your car under some circumstances. I am thinking, for example, of the right hander after the bustop at Watkins Glen. With left foot braking it "might" be possible to exit the busstop with full throttle (or at least "more" throttle) and maintain this throttle position (apart maybe from a blip or two) by using LFB to keep the car from washing out. I think it is less upsetting to release the brake gently while on full throttle than it is to transition from right-foot-braking, or even a throttle lift, to full throttle.
Of course, a single three day class certainly does not make me an expert by any means. I am just saying that I went from being semi-skeptical as to its importance to realizing that, done correctly, it could be a very effective tool . . .
I have been trying to drive all of my cars now, even on the street, with my left foot held right above the brake pedal. When I do need to downshift, I move my right foot over to the brake, heel/toe like usual, move my left foot over to the brake pedal when shifting is completed, and then move my right foot back over the gas. The only problem I have with the 996 is that the clutch pedal is higher than the brake pedal (which is perfect for heel/toeing). I would like to lower the clutch pedal so that they are all roughly level like they are in the rally cars. In any event, with practice, I think this could become second nature despite the fact that it sounds (and seems) complicated at first. After all, I used to think that heel/toeing and rev-matching was really confusing and complicated. Now, I just do it without thinking . . .
Last edited by TD in DC; 08-07-2006 at 02:54 PM.
08-07-2006, 03:07 PM
#9
I don't keep my left foot over the brake at all times. I keep my left foot parked on the firewall. In a road course, unlike rally, you hopefully know where the turns are and where to use this technique. If you're consistently surprised by turn 4 appearing in your windshield, maybe "other sports beckon". I prepare for the turn by moving my foot to cover the brake pedal, but once I'm done with braking it goes back to the left floor.
I don't know, but I think attempting to cover the brake pedal at all times without actually pressing on it would, at least for me, impart a state of tension to my body. I want to be relaxed while I'm driving, at least my body if not my brain.
I don't know, but I think attempting to cover the brake pedal at all times without actually pressing on it would, at least for me, impart a state of tension to my body. I want to be relaxed while I'm driving, at least my body if not my brain.
08-07-2006, 03:11 PM
#10
Yes Cris, I wasn't suggesting that it would be necessary for on track use . . . I was just describing how the rally guys do it.
Right now I am trying to drive that way just so that I can get used to LFB . . . Once I am comfortable with it, I can back off. I just want to be super comfortable with a technique before I start trying it at track speeds where an error could have really big consequences.
The trick is to keep your heel on the floor. It is easier to be smooth and less tense when you have proper foot placement with your left heel on the floor just like you drive with the right foot.
Right now I am trying to drive that way just so that I can get used to LFB . . . Once I am comfortable with it, I can back off. I just want to be super comfortable with a technique before I start trying it at track speeds where an error could have really big consequences.
The trick is to keep your heel on the floor. It is easier to be smooth and less tense when you have proper foot placement with your left heel on the floor just like you drive with the right foot.
08-07-2006, 06:24 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
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[QUOTE]think it depends on the car and the track. I drive a 944 like Todd and at Summit I LFB for turns 4, 6 and 10 and probably should for 3. I know at Mid Ohio I was LFB for turn 1 and probably elsewhere but don't remember. Like Todd said in his report, it's just another tool in your arsernal. I find it helps me balance the car in many instances.
Chris I agree. I have been with a couple of fast PCA instructors who utilize this technique when and where it is applicable. IMHO you can also add turn 10 at WGI and turn 5 of Pocono North to your list.
Chris I agree. I have been with a couple of fast PCA instructors who utilize this technique when and where it is applicable. IMHO you can also add turn 10 at WGI and turn 5 of Pocono North to your list.
08-07-2006, 07:12 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Hey,
I will be interested to see how well what you learned translates to the track, it sounds intriguing for sure. One of the best bits of information I ever got was from my first instructor at a FATT who said that a great driver doesnt wait for something to happen he anticipates it (meaning no surprises). You are taking that one step further saying that you would plan on something happening (or not happening), which would be the car sliding (or preferably not sliding?) as a result of various inputs. The only time I have been surprised lately has been due to the car stepping out because of a busted shock running out of travel. It is rare that the car catches me by surprise, although typically I am driving the car on the edge and corrections are necessary. Those corrections are reactions, but still not surprises. To keep away from understeer and especially oversteer (to the point of having to correct) means driving under the limit, no? Remember the Shumacher vid showing he makes many tiny corrections in a turn: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uk2p2...elated&search=
Come to think of it, I am not too sure I agree with ONeil on this. Obviously I dont want to be in a drift contest around the track, but I think the rule is 10% of slip is where you want to be. Occasionally you will step over that. I still love the chart in the Carroll Smith book that shows the relatively fine line of slip angles between genius and idiot.
For LFB I drive 100% on the street that way. I even have it down to where I can tap between my left and right foot on the brake and still maintain consistent pressure. I discovered that and figured it was a good way to compare sensitivity between the two. Still on the track I dont use it. I tried last year and didnt like it, but might give it another shot. For Summit in my car it would only be good for T4 and T6 as I have a gear change on all of the others. I remember reading a quote from Barichello (sp) saying that he knows that MS is faster primarily due to LFB, but he is too old to learn and cant quite get on with it. He is pretty damn fast w/o it, but realize, especially in a F1 car he should be using it.
I will be interested to see how well what you learned translates to the track, it sounds intriguing for sure. One of the best bits of information I ever got was from my first instructor at a FATT who said that a great driver doesnt wait for something to happen he anticipates it (meaning no surprises). You are taking that one step further saying that you would plan on something happening (or not happening), which would be the car sliding (or preferably not sliding?) as a result of various inputs. The only time I have been surprised lately has been due to the car stepping out because of a busted shock running out of travel. It is rare that the car catches me by surprise, although typically I am driving the car on the edge and corrections are necessary. Those corrections are reactions, but still not surprises. To keep away from understeer and especially oversteer (to the point of having to correct) means driving under the limit, no? Remember the Shumacher vid showing he makes many tiny corrections in a turn: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uk2p2...elated&search=
Come to think of it, I am not too sure I agree with ONeil on this. Obviously I dont want to be in a drift contest around the track, but I think the rule is 10% of slip is where you want to be. Occasionally you will step over that. I still love the chart in the Carroll Smith book that shows the relatively fine line of slip angles between genius and idiot.
For LFB I drive 100% on the street that way. I even have it down to where I can tap between my left and right foot on the brake and still maintain consistent pressure. I discovered that and figured it was a good way to compare sensitivity between the two. Still on the track I dont use it. I tried last year and didnt like it, but might give it another shot. For Summit in my car it would only be good for T4 and T6 as I have a gear change on all of the others. I remember reading a quote from Barichello (sp) saying that he knows that MS is faster primarily due to LFB, but he is too old to learn and cant quite get on with it. He is pretty damn fast w/o it, but realize, especially in a F1 car he should be using it.
08-07-2006, 07:21 PM
#13
I can't wait to try as well, but I will not be jumping in with both feet. [Thank you, thank you, I will be here all week and try the veal!]
I will pick my places carefully, and even then I will probably work my way up to staying on the throttle while I brake.
Just to clarify, O'Neil isn't saying that you will never have to make corrections, or that you should not have a slip angle. Indeed, the rally guys typically and intentionally have more than 10% slip (or more accurately, have the car pitched by more than 10%). Rather, his point is that you need to drive the car such that "problem" understeer/oversteer does not develop in the first place.
It is one step further than merely not being surprised. The best way I can think to put it at this moment is that you need to make the car work where the work comes easiest so that you are not asking the car to do too much, and even then you need to "correct" for likely oversteer/understeer before the oversteer/understeer actually occurs. A good example of this is opening the wheel as early as possible in a corner even if your car is not oversteering, or transfering weight to the front to prevent understeer even if your car is not already understeering.
I most definitely am not explaning this very well, but you should be "proactive" with car control skills rather than "reactive," which may cause you to make unnecessary "corrections" but will prevent the car from stepping out or pushing, which will slow you down.
I will pick my places carefully, and even then I will probably work my way up to staying on the throttle while I brake.
Just to clarify, O'Neil isn't saying that you will never have to make corrections, or that you should not have a slip angle. Indeed, the rally guys typically and intentionally have more than 10% slip (or more accurately, have the car pitched by more than 10%). Rather, his point is that you need to drive the car such that "problem" understeer/oversteer does not develop in the first place.
It is one step further than merely not being surprised. The best way I can think to put it at this moment is that you need to make the car work where the work comes easiest so that you are not asking the car to do too much, and even then you need to "correct" for likely oversteer/understeer before the oversteer/understeer actually occurs. A good example of this is opening the wheel as early as possible in a corner even if your car is not oversteering, or transfering weight to the front to prevent understeer even if your car is not already understeering.
I most definitely am not explaning this very well, but you should be "proactive" with car control skills rather than "reactive," which may cause you to make unnecessary "corrections" but will prevent the car from stepping out or pushing, which will slow you down.
08-07-2006, 07:33 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
I understand. I actually give a slight countersteer right after turn in on T9 at SPR and the entry to Hogpen as I KNOW the rear will step out on entry if I don't with the current suspension setup (being upgraded next week, wahoo!). I watch the videos and when I do that the car stays on its projectory (sp) so it works w/o upsetting the car. Hopefully the new suspension will help w/ that issue.
Usually though I am reacting to what I know will happen. I wonder if Shuey is reacting with all those corrections or if they are preventative/prior to sliding? My guess, and it would be a guess, is that they are indeed very, very, very quick reactions.
Usually though I am reacting to what I know will happen. I wonder if Shuey is reacting with all those corrections or if they are preventative/prior to sliding? My guess, and it would be a guess, is that they are indeed very, very, very quick reactions.
08-07-2006, 07:35 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
You need to spend some time ice racing. Just think of it as 'rally cars, door to door'. What the hell else are you going to do in the winter...watch basketball or golf on TV ?
www.icerace.com or www.cnyira.com
It wasn't until I started ice racing that I really appreciated LFB (and it's when I finally learned how to go fast in the rain). It's evolved strangely for me...but I instinctively LFB in the wet when road racing, regardless of whether it's front or rear wheel drive. I have to tell myself to do it in the dry. What triggers each reaction is still a mystery to me.
www.icerace.com or www.cnyira.com
It wasn't until I started ice racing that I really appreciated LFB (and it's when I finally learned how to go fast in the rain). It's evolved strangely for me...but I instinctively LFB in the wet when road racing, regardless of whether it's front or rear wheel drive. I have to tell myself to do it in the dry. What triggers each reaction is still a mystery to me.