SundayDriver

There are two parts to this. First, how can you get it correctly aligned:
Some cars settle or change when you dirve them. If, for example, you set rear toe in to 1mm and after a drive it is 1mm out, then you need to start with 3mm in and then check it after the drive. You really don't care what it is set to on the rack, you care what the alignment is when you drive it.

Second issue is whether the car is OK or not as the above assumes there are no bad parts on the car.

Since it is new, yoiu really should force the dealer to try to sort this out - you may well have a bad bushing or a problem with a bolt, or even subframe issues. With a new car, I would really chase the latter approach as you should be able to get an alignment that holds.

GUMBALL

I think that BrendanC might have the answer. Most street vehicles have rubber bushings in the suspension. When the car is raised for any reason (such as to attach the alignment machine heads) the car must be driven for several miles before it "settles back down" again.

The solution - measure the height of the car (at fender lip is convenient) before it is raised off the floor, do what is necessary (attach the heads, make the adjustments, etc) then pull the car back to the correct ride height, and then take the measurements.

I have seen several methods of doing this - by adding weight , or one shop had a small winch attached to each end of the alignment rack, and used that to hold the vehicle at the correct height.....

The point is...if the alignment is done at the "incorrect" height, then obviously when the vehicle settles, the settings will not be right. It is surprising how few alignment shops understand this......or seem to care.....

FTS

First, thank you all for your interest in helping my situation, I much appreciate it. Every bit of information helps greatly.

The car was not raised before or after the alignments, so that takes out that variable; otherwise, it would have been very a strong possibility.

This weekend, I have been reading Paul Frere's published specs on the 996/997 suspension components. The static camber/toe charts are not detailed enough, but it does appear that someone's suggestion, I think it was Z-man, about going over a certain neg. camber point creating instability in toe appears to be a likely contributor. Looking at the chart, which don't have scales or absolute numbers, and other data included in the book, it certainly seems that there is a limit to the neg. camber that should set with eccentric bolts, even if mechanically it is possible to go over that limit. So, rear -2.2 and front -1.1 camber may be beyond those limits.

Monday or Tuesday I will be at the dealer, I will get print outs of course, I'll post updates.

Again, thank you very much for your contributions, this is helping a great deal in solving this issues and learning about P-cars details . THANK YOU ALL!

smlporsche

I was talking to a friend of mine who had the same problem with his CS. It turns out to be the allingement machine at the dealer because he brought it to to race shops and their measurements were identical to eachother but very different from the dealer...
Go Figure.

FTS

LOL, yes, I am hoping my situation will be the reverse of that

mooty

my alignment on CS held very well, both with stock suspension and aftermkt coil overs.
aligned using the string method.

Mike K.

Bolts holding the toe link are loose or not holding.

FTS

I have posted an update on the fix of my problem at the following thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...270post3291270

Thank you to all of you in assisting me with this issue, it has proved to be invaluable to me.