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Old 06-02-2006, 03:29 PM
  #46  
Arrwin
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Originally Posted by TD in DC
It is very hard to blip too much, particularly if you have a rev limiter. The larger the blip, the more time you have to release the clutch. The smaller the blip, the greater the chance you will lock the tire up a bit upon release. "Most" drivers do not blip enough. Work on braking smoothly and giving a very healthy blip. Don't worry about letting off the brake a "little" bit. You can't tell that I do it while in the car, but data shows that I do. I have heard that nearly everyone does a little.

I actually heel and toe constantly, or at a minimum rev-match, even during daily driving. I find that it is impossible to drive one way on the street and a different way on the track. The goal is to develop good habits that you perform subconsciously. It is too hard for me to do that unless I am "always" driving the same way.
Ah ok...perfect explanation, which leads to my initial question. After I blip to say 4k-5k rpms, should I release the clutch right away @ about 4k rpms or should I wait and release at say 2-3k rpms? My goal is to not have the syncros work or is this not possible?
Old 06-02-2006, 07:37 PM
  #47  
bobt993
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Originally Posted by Geo
I spent years racing karts which of course require LFB. You'd think I would be used to it and able to use it. For some reason I just cannot bring myself to do it in cars.
I had the same problem. First start with the street and automatic ( you will drive like you have a learners permit for a couple hours). Second start mentally moving your feet in the car then slap a plate on it and drive your neighborhood. Third, start at DE's and autocrossing. Fourth, get your left foot off the dead pedal when at DE's and start resting it next to the brake during warmup laps and LFB on non-shifting turns. Modulate gas/brake without rocking the car. I find slightly early throttle on the final release smooths out the transition nicely. Hope that helps. The carousel at Summit Point is worth a full second using LFB. I can see 6 cars lengths separation on a higher horsepower car running faster laps overall than me. They catch up by the main straight tower.
Old 06-02-2006, 07:47 PM
  #48  
TD in DC
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Originally Posted by Arrwin
Ah ok...perfect explanation, which leads to my initial question. After I blip to say 4k-5k rpms, should I release the clutch right away @ about 4k rpms or should I wait and release at say 2-3k rpms? My goal is to not have the syncros work or is this not possible?
You must get out of the clutch right away since the revs drop very quickly. In other words, blip and immediately out of the clutch. If you wait, you will have wasted all of the work you have done, and possibly made it worse than if you had just shifted without trying to blip at all.

don't worry about syncros . . . your car is modern enough that they will, for the most part, take care of themselves. Rather, you are worrying about matching the revs so that your car will not be upset by you "chirping" the rear wheels when you downshift, which can throw you into a spin, or at least make the car unstable.
Old 06-02-2006, 08:15 PM
  #49  
Rob 97 993c2
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do you guys blip when the stick is in neutral or in the new (lower) gear?
e.g. on a 4 to 3 downshift, do you just brake, clutch in, move to 3rd, blip and release clutch?
or do you actually pause in neutral and then blip and then put stick in 3rd and release?

i do the former and it seems to work fine. Should i be doing the later?
Old 06-02-2006, 08:20 PM
  #50  
Arrwin
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Originally Posted by Rob 97 993c2
do you guys blip when the stick is in neutral or in the new (lower) gear?
e.g. on a 4 to 3 downshift, do you just brake, clutch in, move to 3rd, blip and release clutch?
or do you actually pause in neutral and then blip and then put stick in 3rd and release?

i do the former and it seems to work fine. Should i be doing the later?
I think the way you are doing it is correct and most efficient. The latter sounds like double-clutching. Of course i'm not expert in this matter.

Just like this....
Old 06-02-2006, 08:24 PM
  #51  
Arrwin
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Originally Posted by TD in DC
You must get out of the clutch right away since the revs drop very quickly. In other words, blip and immediately out of the clutch. If you wait, you will have wasted all of the work you have done, and possibly made it worse than if you had just shifted without trying to blip at all.

don't worry about syncros . . . your car is modern enough that they will, for the most part, take care of themselves. Rather, you are worrying about matching the revs so that your car will not be upset by you "chirping" the rear wheels when you downshift, which can throw you into a spin, or at least make the car unstable.
That is exactly what I was looking for and something that I have to practice. After the blip, I tend to hesitate for a sec (mental?) and then release the clutch and like you said, by that time it's too late and waste of the effort.

Thanks again!
Old 06-02-2006, 11:13 PM
  #52  
RedlineMan
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Originally Posted by Rob 97 993c2
do you guys blip when the stick is in neutral or in the new (lower) gear? e.g. on a 4 to 3 downshift, do you just brake, clutch in, move to 3rd, blip and release clutch? or do you actually pause in neutral and then blip and then put stick in 3rd and release? i do the former and it seems to work fine. Should i be doing the later?
Rob;

Read post #51, then watch my video clip again. You declutch. A split second later, the shifter is moved to the intended gear as the throttle is booted. These two happen simultaneously. A split second later, the clutch is re-engaged. It's over in a Mississippi!
Old 06-03-2006, 12:57 AM
  #53  
steve775
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The block of wood idea taped to the gas pedal sounds like a good idea to practice on the street.
I can't think of any other way to have the brake and the gas be close enough to make practicing on
the street feasible.



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