Schroth 6 point harness installation question
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Ed Newman
P.S. The Scroth 6 point hybrid is a T bar for the sub strap.
The PROFI is a "T-bar" style sub, albeit unconventionally attached directly to the buckle instead of clipping in seperately. The Hybrid is in a class by itself.
#17
NASA Racer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm still confused about the sub strap with respect to the electronics box under the passenger seat in my SC. It seems impossible to mount the sub strap in accordance with the manufacturer's guidelines. What have others done? HMS mentioned a bracket that attaches to the seat rails and goes above the box.
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 1957 356
I'm still confused about the sub strap with respect to the electronics box under the passenger seat in my SC. It seems impossible to mount the sub strap in accordance with the manufacturer's guidelines. What have others done? HMS mentioned a bracket that attaches to the seat rails and goes above the box.
There needs to be a certain amount of room under the seat for the belt hardware to remain below the seat. You also need to have access for bolting the belts down. I am installing Schroth Hybrid & Profi belts in a car right now, and it takes some doing.
The simplest is the passenger seat, which in this car is bolted solid in place. I am using clip-ins and eye bolts for the sub on this one, and the install is fairly simple. The driver's seat is another story. I am setting this car up so that different people can drive it. The seat is mounted to custom modified double locking JAZ sliders. Because the seat moves, sub angle and adjustment comes into play.
For seats on sliders, I mount the sub to the seat. In strictest terms, this is a bit of a compromise, but seems to be a logical way to assure that the sub is adjusted properly for everyone. Below are pics of the hardware I fabricated to achieve this. Since the lock mechnanism also needs room (you can see I even modded it), I ran the belts forward. I did not want to bend the belt over the edge of the seat hole, so I placed the round tubes in the right place for the belt to roll over smoothly and also at the right angle, reducing stress on the material. This all took some doing!
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrkt.jpg)
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrktOn.jpg)
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrktBelted.jpg)
#19
Intermediate
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by RedlineMan
You might have to move your box. Welcome to the World of Custom Installations!
There needs to be a certain amount of room under the seat for the belt hardware to remain below the seat. You also need to have access for bolting the belts down. I am installing Schroth Hybrid & Profi belts in a car right now, and it takes some doing.
The simplest is the passenger seat, which in this car is bolted solid in place. I am using clip-ins and eye bolts for the sub on this one, and the install is fairly simple. The driver's seat is another story. I am setting this car up so that different people can drive it. The seat is mounted to custom modified double locking JAZ sliders. Because the seat moves, sub angle and adjustment comes into play.
For seats on sliders, I mount the sub to the seat. In strictest terms, this is a bit of a compromise, but seems to be a logical way to assure that the sub is adjusted properly for everyone. Below are pics of the hardware I fabricated to achieve this. Since the lock mechnanism also needs room (you can see I even modded it), I ran the belts forward. I did not want to bend the belt over the edge of the seat hole, so I placed the round tubes in the right place for the belt to roll over smoothly and also at the right angle, reducing stress on the material. This all took some doing!
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrkt.jpg)
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrktOn.jpg)
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrktBelted.jpg)
There needs to be a certain amount of room under the seat for the belt hardware to remain below the seat. You also need to have access for bolting the belts down. I am installing Schroth Hybrid & Profi belts in a car right now, and it takes some doing.
The simplest is the passenger seat, which in this car is bolted solid in place. I am using clip-ins and eye bolts for the sub on this one, and the install is fairly simple. The driver's seat is another story. I am setting this car up so that different people can drive it. The seat is mounted to custom modified double locking JAZ sliders. Because the seat moves, sub angle and adjustment comes into play.
For seats on sliders, I mount the sub to the seat. In strictest terms, this is a bit of a compromise, but seems to be a logical way to assure that the sub is adjusted properly for everyone. Below are pics of the hardware I fabricated to achieve this. Since the lock mechnanism also needs room (you can see I even modded it), I ran the belts forward. I did not want to bend the belt over the edge of the seat hole, so I placed the round tubes in the right place for the belt to roll over smoothly and also at the right angle, reducing stress on the material. This all took some doing!
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrkt.jpg)
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrktOn.jpg)
![](http://www.redlinerennsport.com/06SubBrktBelted.jpg)