I have taken out the factory glass, motors, actuators, etc. from the two doors. I cut windows out of Lexan to be used during transport, for when parking outside, washing the car, etc. I am now trying to figure out a way to support the new windows so they don't fall down into the doors. The fit is nice and snug all the way around the weatherstripping. The doors are gutted, just the outer skin and the inner skin remain. The windows are sandwiched along the bottom between the two (just like the factory windows were.)

My question is how to secure the windows to keep them from dropping? Bonus points for pictures.

For clarification, these will not be used on the track.

(The fuzziness in the pictures is the protective film layer on the lexan.)

 

Jim,

I bought some stuff from Hank at GT-racing for my lexan door windows. They are used on some older 911's. Basically some pieces of leather strapping.

If you call him, he will know what you need.

Jason

 

I plan on doing something similar for my 944. I was thinking of attaching a strap or straps to the lower edge of the lexan, the other end of the strap would have a button (snap) on it and the other half of the button would be riveted/screwed into the lower part of the door. So when you pull the strap up you can snap the buttons to hold the windows up.

Lately though I've been thinking that the only time the windows will be up is during storage or if I transport on an open trailer so rather than doing the straps I thought I could just drill a hole in the top edge of the door and a matching hole through the lexan - then get a quick release style pin that I can just plug into the holes to hold it up. I think this will work fine since I'll never be driving with the windows in place.

No pictures since I haven't actually made anything yet. Hopefully someone will post other creative solutions.

 

I have Lexan on the drivers side. I also have NASCAR door bars on the drivers side. There should be a door reinforcement bar that goes the length of the door from the factory. I made a 4"X5"X9/16" block plywood. I cut a radius on the one side that fits over the bar. I cut a channel on the other side that the window fits into. The bottom of my window is at a slight angle vs the door bar. From the front of the car to the rear I slide this piece of wood inbetween the two. It acts a a wedge to keep the window up tight into the seal. Works well for when transporting on the trailer and while in storage. When I close the door the cage adds a third point of contact. I'll be home on the 24th from vacation and you could come look at my design.

 

As just mentioned, a few well placed wooden wedges will work.

 

Duct tape....

Still need a picture?

 

Thanks everyone, some good suggestions there (except you A930Rocket ...there's one in every crowd )

I'm hopefully going to get the insides of those doors painted in the next couple days, then I'll rig something up.

Thanks guys!

 

Whats wrong with duct tape, that's how I keep my hood on

 

shiners,

Your right where I am on my spec car, same deal no windows or winders, the setup with the leather straps (aka vintage 991R racecars) is what I am doing, except updated with nylon webbing rather than leather. Check out R Gruppe for some of the vintage setups. It sure makes it easier to wash the car with windows dosen't it? The other option is fixed windows with sliders from GT racing. Post some picks and let me know how it comes out.

 

Velcro !!!
since they are not for use while the car is in motion - just put 4 tabs on the doors and longer velcro straps on the windows - you could get fancy and slot the window and loop the velcro through it
easy simple and almost 0 weight.

 

Jim: I made up some lexan windows for my 911 to keep rain and dirt out when it's not on the track. I found a piece of vinyl siding weather-strip at the hardware store. I glued the strip to the outside lower face of the lexan at the window to door location. It deflects water from going inside the door panel while at the same time holding up the lexan. I mounted a swivel hinge and **** devise on the rear lower inside corner to hold the assembly in place. In other words the top, front and rear of the lexan fit into the original window channel. The lower support is the weather strip between the lexan and door (outside). The unit snaps into place thereafter using the swivel and **** to hold it in place. I haul the car on an open trailer so it works good on the highway too. I don't have any photos at present but if you are interested send me an email and I'll take some pics for you. peter@usalift.com.

Peter H

 

Hey;

Didn't read all the responses. I would pick two spots where the inner and outer door sheetmetal are level with eachother. That looks like the tabs where the interior panel "hangs," and perhaps where the outer door glass weatherstrip (belt molding) slips on. Drill holes and pin them front and rear. Pins on some sort of lanyard to keep track of them.

I removed my motor when it died, and drilled a hole in the regulator arms where they cross. I install a pin there. Holds the window up for transport and security. Comes out in a flash for track.

 

Hey thanks guys! Lots of good ideas there. I just finished painting the door inner skins white to match the rest of the interior, so once that dries I'll rig something up for the windows. I'll post pics when done just for chuckles and grins.

Thanks again! Good info.

 

PVC pipe 1" cut to length 1/2" longer than the distance from window bottom to door inside floor. Then cut 1/2" notch into one end fo PVC to be a groove for the edge of the window. Just wedge in the PVC pipe for transport. Cost = perhaps 50 cents. Time to make= 5 minutes?

 

I use a simple piece of PVC pipe with a little notch on the tops. Had them for years and do exactly what you are asking.....Cost maybe $1