Garage with 2 post lift
#31
Originally Posted by ed devinney
My dad and I built a pit (that I need to fill in one of these years). It works, but is a PITA to get in and out of, especially with a car in place to work. It did make it easier to pull out engines with transmissions attached, though. I wouldn't do it again.
I actually had a used low 2 post in my barn but couldn't get a concrete guy in to do some necessary floor work, so I sold it. I don't do much serious (drivetrain R&R) work much these days, so a midrise scissor lift will do.
What's your goal?
I actually had a used low 2 post in my barn but couldn't get a concrete guy in to do some necessary floor work, so I sold it. I don't do much serious (drivetrain R&R) work much these days, so a midrise scissor lift will do.
What's your goal?
Bro
#32
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by ed devinney
No problem - your point is still well made, ensure that you have the right base before you trust your life to the lift :-)
Last edited by MHC2S; 03-21-2006 at 06:34 PM.
#33
In response to Lemming, the 3 bay garage is almost 1200 sq. ft. The ceilings on the side bays are 10', the center bay is 14'. With the garage door up, I can lift the Suburban to the maximum height.
Also, the entire floor is 6" reinforced 4000 PSI cement. The doors are 10' wide by 9' tall.
Also, the entire floor is 6" reinforced 4000 PSI cement. The doors are 10' wide by 9' tall.
#34
Nordschleife Master
Thanks Mike. Not sure that I can go that large, since the renovation also involves a new master suite and larger living room. I've currently got a 26x36 plan that I'm considering.
#35
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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I ran into some similar challenges when I built my shop with respect to the height allowed by zoning and my need to have 12'6" insdie height. My builder conventionally framed it and got me the height while staying under the 15' allowed. I used 5" 4000 psi concrete in the area of the lift pads, bought the lift on ebay for 2K delivered to the door and used roll doors with no overhead tracks. The shop is 30x40 and handles all of my needs just great.
#36
Mr. Excitement
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A pit would be far less versatile than a lift IMO. With a pit the car height is set and you would still need to jack it to work on wheels, brakes or suspension. With a lift you can work at any height and under or to the side as needed. Yes your car will not fall off a pit but you can fall in them when not in use. Also the floor space under a lift is usable when the lift is not in use or when a car is at full height. A pit is always there unless you make a strong cover. You cannot park 2 cars in the foot print with a pit as well. You can fly one car up on the lift and park a car or materials under a lift. Lifts don’t flood.
To me pits look to be good for fast repetitive work such as production oil changing and the like. Pulling a 911 motor down and out would be a pain as you would need extra equipment to lower the motor out of the car and then lift it out of the pit. With my lift I lower the car and motor onto a flat wheeled stand and then unbolt the motor (and tranny if it needs to come out as well) and fly the car off. I then use one arm of the lift to lift the motor off the table stand and onto an engine stand after installing a yoke. I don’t even take the car off the lift. If the motor and trans came out together I lower them both to the floor and bisect them safely on the floor then lift the motor to the stand.
To me pits look to be good for fast repetitive work such as production oil changing and the like. Pulling a 911 motor down and out would be a pain as you would need extra equipment to lower the motor out of the car and then lift it out of the pit. With my lift I lower the car and motor onto a flat wheeled stand and then unbolt the motor (and tranny if it needs to come out as well) and fly the car off. I then use one arm of the lift to lift the motor off the table stand and onto an engine stand after installing a yoke. I don’t even take the car off the lift. If the motor and trans came out together I lower them both to the floor and bisect them safely on the floor then lift the motor to the stand.
#38
For those with already built garages but have height challenges, there's a new lift on the market that can work. The MaxJax from Danmar will work in normal sized garages where your only other choice is a mid-rise. The benefit is this is a 2 post lift that leaves the underside of your car accessible. I bought one several months ago and it's the best tool in my garage. It's portable, so you can put it up and take it down in 15 mins. Me, I just leave it up all the time. It only goes up to about 4 feet, but that's still good enough to work under the car with a small shop stool.
Here's the website for more info: http://www.maxjaxusa.com/
No affiliation, I just love mine.
Here's the website for more info: http://www.maxjaxusa.com/
No affiliation, I just love mine.
#39
Rennlist Member
I just finished helping a client renovate his three stall residential garage. I did some 3D design work and renderings early in the process to help them explore options and visualize the layout, then developed a small set of working drawings for his contractor to estimate cost and work off of. (Couple examples below)
This was just an interior renonovation job so no design review boards to deal with but I could certainly help you out if you would like or need some architectural help. PM me if you're interested.
This was just an interior renonovation job so no design review boards to deal with but I could certainly help you out if you would like or need some architectural help. PM me if you're interested.
#40
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That's pretty interesting. It has some benefits over a low rise lift that I like.
What's the cost?
What's the cost?
For those with already built garages but have height challenges, there's a new lift on the market that can work. The MaxJax from Danmar will work in normal sized garages where your only other choice is a mid-rise. The benefit is this is a 2 post lift that leaves the underside of your car accessible. I bought one several months ago and it's the best tool in my garage. It's portable, so you can put it up and take it down in 15 mins. Me, I just leave it up all the time. It only goes up to about 4 feet, but that's still good enough to work under the car with a small shop stool.
Here's the website for more info: http://www.maxjaxusa.com/
No affiliation, I just love mine.
Here's the website for more info: http://www.maxjaxusa.com/
No affiliation, I just love mine.
#41
Rennlist Member
haha, just saw this thread was from '06, I do like the MaxJax though...
#43
Rennlist Member
I thought the same same... Worse than that, I REMEMBER this thread as I was PMing with BoulderGT3 about his new garage back in '06...
Good thread though. I don't have the land for a 3 car garage, so need to live vicariously through others...
Nice work! Every garage needs a flat panel and a cocktail area... I'd take it in a second!
-B
Good thread though. I don't have the land for a 3 car garage, so need to live vicariously through others...
-B
#44
That's pretty interesting. It has some benefits over a low rise lift that I like.
What's the cost?
What's the cost?
For some great garage ideas, a great time-suck, I mean website, to browse is www.garagejournal.com.
#45
Rennlist Member
As a contractor let me chime in.
The thickness of the floor is not a critical as the strength of the concrete and what is used underneath it.
In the garage I'm getting ready to build (with a lift) it will have 4 to 5" of 4000PSI concrete with #4 rebar running both ways on 24" centers. The base will be a minimum of 4" of COMPACTED stone. You will be able to drive anything on it without any problem.
Good luck.
The thickness of the floor is not a critical as the strength of the concrete and what is used underneath it.
In the garage I'm getting ready to build (with a lift) it will have 4 to 5" of 4000PSI concrete with #4 rebar running both ways on 24" centers. The base will be a minimum of 4" of COMPACTED stone. You will be able to drive anything on it without any problem.
Good luck.
This concludes concrete 101.