Skip Wolfe

Getting ready to start tearing into the new to me ex-Technodyne track car and figure since the interior will probably never be emptier - only the dash is in - I would respray the interior with a fresh coat of paint. Never tried it before so it will be a bit of a learning curve.

The car should not need a whole lot of cleaning. PO had laid some carpet down with what looks like a spray adhesive but it doesn't look all that thick so I am hoping it will come up easily, and its just in the front half of the car. Roll cage has quite a few nicks in the paint and the interior pain overall is showing some wear so I figured it was worth starting off with a nice fresh coat of paint.

I checked out Ski's documentary on how to build a track car on the 944 Turbo list and got some pointers along with some PM's to Ski. As it stands now I am planning on the following:

1. Scuff sand the interior with a DA sander with 240 grit, down to 400

2. Ski recommended using a primer/filler - I assume this is only needed on areas down to bare metal - correct?

3. Spay fresh coat of silver paint.

I'm sure I am leaving out some steps so any advice on this would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Skip

shiners780

Hey Skip:
You're lucky in that the most difficult part of the job has already been done...removing the carpet adhesive. To remove the spray adhesive, you might want to try a product called Un-Goo, made by Core Products. I used it on mine to remove the more difficult carpet adhesive, and it worked pretty well. It comes in a spray bottle, making it easier to apply to vertical surfaces. Dwell time is your friend, let it sit and do it's thing. Then I used mineral spirits for the final cleanup.

Jim

RedlineMan

Hey Skip;

Use the DA for what you can, but in the end it won't be that much, especially if it has a garden variety large offset eccentric. I call these Hogging DAs, as they are meant mostly for hogging down rough filler. They are hard to use in tight places because with the large eccentric pattern, they kick around a lot. I use a small eccentric Finishing DA (Hutchins) which does not get kicked around so bad. If that doesn't make sense now... You'll see.

The enemy of interior paint is lack of adhesion, and excessive film build (chips easily). I usually use an acid etch primer because not only is it VERY thin (like water), but it sticks like crazy... to bare metal and all the nooks & crannies you can't get at to sand properly (you'll see!). If you have any cosmetic areas you want to fill a bit, a little high build sanding primer can go on after the acid etch. Just don't lay it on too thick because it will chip easily.

Skip the 400... Skip. It won't matter on an interior. On a fender is different. 220 for the chip feathering and heavy sanding, hand sand with same where you can, finishing off with a scuff pad in all the irregular shaped areas that are hard to sand.

Clean with a vac first and then a blown gun, wax & grease remover, Acid Etch, then fill prime (sparingly), then a single stage urethane. Use a normal gun for the main, but get a touch-up gun for the tight stuff. Paint the sides, roof, cage, and rear floor first. I put a large piece of masking paper in on the floor to stand on to keep dirt off the clean floor. Then pull the paper carefully, revac the floor, and spray it last.

Simple.

Skip Wolfe

Thanks guys.

Skip Wolfe

How many coats of the urethane should I be putting on?

Also - rookie question - but I assume since the hatch is going to be open I should mask of the whole exterior just to protect against overspray - correct?

shiners780

I did:

RedlineMan

Skip;

Only enough material to attain coverage and gloss. Sometimes the small touchup gun is easier to use in that you can spray many thin coats in succession to get gloss, but without getting too much material so it will run. The little guns are often easier to control in this regard even though they don't cover much ground.

Also, if you have a base that is very uneven in color, this will force you to spray more topcoat color to achieve hiding, especially with a metalic or poly color like silver. Either cover all your bare spots with a little light grey primer (probably easiest), or use a light color high solids base coat color like white.

Mask EVERYTHING.

Skip Wolfe

Sorry to dig this thread back up but I have a ignorant paint question. In looking for a respirator to use to paint my interior, I found that all the canister style units state that they are not for urethanes. After doing some research it appears that the urethanes are cyanide based and fairly nasty necessitating self-contained respirators, paints suits etc. Obviously this is way deeper than I care to go with this.

Are urethanes really that nasty? Are there toxic and non-toxic versions of urethanes. Any alternatives to use to paint the interior?

Thanks for the help,

Skip

944racer

Man, that sounds like a major undertaking with the urethane. If it were me, I'd just use this stuff from Krylon called Fusion (the stuff stuff marketed for plastics). I understand that the urethane is meant to really stick and do well, but it would be a good deal easier if you just bought some of that Fusion stuff. It sticks really well, just follow the prep instructions listed above, do several layers (I don't think you even need to prime it, just read the back of the can) and if it chips (which I highly doubt...) a spare rattle can on the trailer wouldn't be that difficult to pack. Not to mention you won't have to buy a gun and the respirator thing sounds like a problem too...

Seriously, this stuff sticks to pitbike plastics like no one's business, so I imagine it will refuse to come off on an interior. Not meant to offend Ski or Redline Man at all, just another option that I think would work really well and could possibly be cheaper.

Anways, that's my suggestion, I'm pretty sure we're using it for our racer too.

bgiere

Skip, PM me if you need a spray gun...