BrianKeithSmith

Which one do you guys prefer and why?

Or are they so identical that it doesn't really matter?

Brian

NoSubEDU

Brian,

Were you at VIR with Chin this weekend? Pretty sure I saw your car there. SWEET ride...

I was the slow guy in the blue 993. Man that car was fast...

If it wasn't you, you have a twin that hits the track. BTW, whomever was at VIR was running 2:10's...

If you get any video with me in your sights, I'd love to take a look at it. I didn't have a camera in the car (no rollbar yet) so I can't take a look at my line.

Regardless, beautiful car.

BrianKeithSmith

Yessir. That was me. Thanks for the compliements. I remember seeing you on the track, I think there were 2 different times when I approached you a the end of the back straight.

It was a good weekend, just very little grip.

Brian

NoSubEDU

Definitely was a good weekend, but very slick.

I remember seeing you a few times, can't miss that 3 ft flame that comes out the rear when you lift.

GTP993

I think the shirt doesnt make the difference, it's mainly focused on the cooling system used. We've tried using window washing fluid instead of just water. We began by "freezing" the fluid down to about 11F (it still remained a liquid) and after about 45 minutes of running it was beginning to get warm. We then tried the same but after 45 minutes we added ice to it and it seemed to work well for another 30 minutes or so. But then began to over fill as the ice melted.
These experiments were used in a 2005 Cup car with windows still in place (VERY HOT after about 30 minutes). We used the Coleman 16qt thermoelectric cooler with a BMW intank fuel pump(which ever one didn't create heat) and wrapped the out/in tubes in heat resistant wrap.

Adam Richman

Brian, like GTP993, I have tried a few different things to get a better effect and I agree w/ him that that the shirt should not be the big factor (unless the designs are vastly different). I think one of the best things you can do for keeping the shirt working the longest is having a toggle as easily reached as possible and not running it constantly during a race (say kick it on on the front straight at VIR and kick it back off through the bridge straight - doing this will keep it cooler significantly longer from my experience vs. running it an entire race). I have tried the big block of ice and minimal amounts of water, tried the crushed ice and lotta water and large cubes ... the next was to try icy salt water - got the idea from a Myth Busters actually (I am worried about the motor and salt water though). The newest designs seem to address it but the older ones (and cheaper ones) have leakage problems around the lids which throws off a good amount of spray - aside from being a mess, this also seems to weaken the suit's ability to do its job as the water level falls.

So I'd look for the best toggle mounting solution first, the best seal for the system I could find and then try your luck w/ various fluids (the wiper fluid idea sounds very interesting - I wish I had a freezer in the trailer to try that).

Also, I have found that the weak point is the tubing connectors (the older white ones seem to crack easily as I have now replaced two of them) and nothing sucks quite as bad as sitting on the grid, hitting the switch and watching it spray down your dash while you roast in an extra and now completly useless layer of tubing and tee-shirt. I am considering switching mine out for some aquarium (twist lock) under tank filter connectors instead (as they are much easier to release and I hope much easier to keep from cracking).

seege

I have the Cool Shirt and I wanted to save a couple pounds over the stock system so I bought the shirt and insulated hose with connectors.Bought a 2$ styrofoam cooler from the grocery store and a small bilge-pump on a toggle-switch(to shut-off when it gets too cold) This works pretty darn well for me - 10lbs of ice and water just makes it to the end of a 40-minute race plus grid time. The interesting thing about the FAST system is the chilled air in the helmet.Good luck

kurt M

Get a bunch of lead weights that fit in the cooler with space around them and that take up about 1/2 of the space. It is important they be shaped so water can flow around them. Large ***** would be a good shape
Get some dry ice. It is solid carbon dioxide and very very cold. Do not put the dry ice in the cooler put the lead weights in with the dry ice in a second cooler an hour or so prior to use. The idea is to use the dry ice to bring the temp of the lead down to the temp of the dry ice. Pre cool the lead in a water and ice mixture prior to super cooling to conserve the dry ice. Prior to your use of the system fill and run it with regular ice water mixture to pre cool everything. Just before you go out remove some of the water and install the super cold lead. You will extend the cap of the existing system. Salt does not extend the cap, only lowers the fluid temp. If the lead freezes up all the water you can add salt to lower the fluid temp. Test the system you have first.
There is a given amount of cooling in a block of given temp ice. The super cold lead weights will absorb far more heat than the same volume of ice.

Another method would be to make the cooler of ice and water larger. Use the coldest ice you can and as little water as you can pre chill everything and repack the cooler with ice just before you go out.

Something as simple as pre chilling and reloading the system would help too.

Check to see that the water is contacting the ice. some of the systems dump the return water right next to the pump. The water gets sucked right back up befor it is cooled by the remaining ice.

mitch236

I have used dry ice in a baggie right in the cooler and it worked extremely well. Just need to vent the baggie outside the cooler.

Tom W

I'm puzzled by all the attempts to use dry ice. I've used ice purchased from WalMart - fill the cooler with ice, add water to cover the pump and it lasts all day in 100+ heat (4 x 30 minute sessions) with a FAST system I got last year.

Do yours not last as long?

38D

[QUOTE=Tom W]I'm puzzled by all the attempts to use dry ice. I've used ice purchased from WalMart - fill the cooler with ice, add water to cover the pump and it lasts all day in 100+ heat (4 x 30 minute sessions) with a FAST system I got last year.QUOTE]

I have had similar experiences. My FAST system has a dial switch that automatically cycles the water from every couple of seconds, to every couple of minutes. I keep it at about 2/3 of full (so it cycles every 20 seconds or so) Worked fine for me with regular ice & a little bit of water.

camber799

I like the cool shirt system myself. I wouldn't use a toggle switch. The problem with the toggle setup is that you cycle from mind numbing cold to super hot. I couldn't stand it but it was a heck of a lot better than no cooling system.

The reason I like the cool shirt system is that they have a very good thermostat which regulates coolant flow. Other systems turn the system completely on or completely off. With the cool shirt system you can regulate the flow of water so that you are comfortable all the time rather than being subject to a bell curve type deal where, again, you're either too hot or too cold but never just right. The thermostat can go on the dash so you can make fine adjustments on the fly. It's a great setup.

They also have a great new cooler. The other coolers leaked. Their cooler seals nicely.

Dry ice is the best choice if you can find it near a track. It lasts longer.

The helmet air option is nice. If you can only afford to purchase air or water, go with the water. It is more effective at cooling your body. It works great. It makes July and August a breeze.

By the way, they offer three types of shirts. Cotton, Nomex, and CarbonX. Get the carbonX because if you have to wear underwear you may as well wear something that will help your firesuit.