Bruce P

George -- The best product you could use is PPG's epoxy primer for both adhesion and corrosion protection. It is actually recommended that on modern unibody cars that this primer be applied prior to doing the body filler or "bondo" work as it sticks better to bare metal than any filler can and has factory quality corrosion protection. It comes in several colors (gray, black, white, red, blue and gray-green) and does not have to be top coated. You can use two different hardeners with it, DP401 or DP402 and I would recommend the 401 even though it requires an induction period of 20 minutes after mixing. In areas like interiors which are subject to a lot of overspray you will get better results.
It can also be clear coated if you would like a gloss finish instead of the semigloss 'out of the can'

Bruce Phillips
Professional Paint Supply

Benton

Thanks for the advice, Juan. Do you have any closer pictures of your finished seat mounts?

Juan Lopez

Mark (Red),

Regretfully I don't have any close up shots currently. I should be picking up the car soon and will take them then to send to you. Please drop me a line if I forget to do it.

Cheers, Juan

RJay

Not sure exactly what paint they used, but it was the done via the electrostatic charge method. The paint seems pretty tough with no drips anywhere to be found. Surface prep + primer + three coats, cost was about $600. Very happy with the result.

Greg Fishman

Has anyone ever powdercoated the interior of their car?

RJay

I'm not certain what we did was technically powercoating, but its a similiar process. They charged the body of the car to apply the paint. I wasn't there when it was done, but I can verify that was what was done if you like.

Greg Fishman

Rjay,
That is ok I take it your car wasn't baked though, correct?

mmporsche

I know you are looking for advice on prep and primers but I recently took out just the carpet on the driver side of my 944 and encountered tons of goey crap. I scraped it and then I purchased some industrial adhesive remover. After about 4 hours I was left with a bigger mess than I started. I cleaned up what I had with a scraper and a wire brush and ultimately went to Home Depot and bought some very thin sheet metal. It took me a couple of hours but I fabricated a floor using my floor mat as a template and went up the side of the tunnel. I then riveted the pieces in and it looks pretty good for a race car. Just a suggestion on the floor since I know exactly what you encountered.

Good luck!

RJay

No baking, no ovens, no waiting.

RJay

Just spoke to my wrench. Apparently the paint is standard stuff, they claim they can use just about any automotive paint for the process. So its not a powder. The advantage is that by charging the paint and the car, there is virtually no overspray and its much easier to paint around tubes and curved surfaces.