Have you tried disconnecting the electrical connector at the PASM module a few times? Sometimes cycling it will improve electrical connection.

 

Thanks! I will definitely try that.

 

Have you called Atlanta Speedwerks to see what they think? Race car / Porsche specialists that may be a better resource than a dealership.

 

Thanks, but fhey have already had their shot at this.

 

The PASM unit … at least in the 987, is trivial to remove and replace. Per above taking it out (passenger footwell) making sure the contacts are clean, inspecting it for corrosion, and replacing it is easy and probably worth doing. That said, it sounds like it might be a connector on the one shock (if heating it has an effect).

 

Thanks so much for responding. The PASM unit is is easy to remove in a 981 also, though it is in the rear compartment on the passenger side. We have checked out the contacts, etc. It’s immaculate in that sense. I have already replaced the shock in question. Since the application of heat near the PASM unit seems to cause the fault to clear for a time, I’m disposed to think it’s the problem. I am fine with replacing it, but I’d like to have more assurance that doing that will cure the problem. Lots of $$ already invested to no avail. Thanks again for your interest.

 

No expertise with this at all, but you may be onto something with the light bulb test. An interesting test (and it sounds like not hard to do) would be to swap out the PASM controller to see if the problem goes away. As a bonus, see if putting yours in someone else's car causes the problem to occur there. That would make it definitive.

 

Thanks. I have been thinking along these lines. Too bad I don’t know anyone with a 981 well enough to ask for that favor. The best bet would probably be just taking it to a dealer when the fault is showing and let them do the test. The problem there is it’s a two hour drive and the fault is likely to clear by the time I get there. I am thinking that there surely must be a way to test the unit without going through all that.

 

I have a different opinion than the others that seem to tolerate zero risk. IMO, if the car handles and brakes fine on the street and the only perceptible issue is loss of Sport mode, then you are fine - if you have adequate experience and driving skills. If you sunk a bunch of money into an event and don't want to miss it, aren't going to hurt yourself or anyone else by trying .... IF you have at least a little bit of experience to manage a car that begins to misbehave.

First question - if you have a manual, can you heel and toe? This is a necessary skill for what you are describing. If you can, who cares if the computer is turned off? Many of us drove manuals for decades before computers took the skill set away from us. No harm in driving old school again. I still do it myself regardless of computer options. If you can't, you run the risk of locking up the rear and spinning. Or over rev'ing the engine. Solution is to over slow in the corner so a heel and toe shift is not needed. So this failure is not a deal breaker, all depends on how you want to handle it.

Second question - Are you sure the shocks are working in regular mode and there are no other issues? If so, you will just have a softer car than you should. Still track able. Again, many cars take to the track without a sport mode, not a requirement. Adjust your driving to the car you have that day and listen to what it wants from you.

Third question - If you are wrong about the second question and you have a shock misbehaves, are you experienced enough to sense it and adjust accordingly? A blown shock shouldn't put you into a wall, you'll just be pissed off the car doesn't behave like it should. You'll be slow and frustrated. Maybe you park and go home if it happens. But this is not a dangerous condition for an experienced driver absent a sudden and complete failure mid-corner in a 4th gear sweeper. I've run races with a blown shock. Disappointing results but never felt unsafe as I dialed back and drove at the car's capability at that time.

If it were me, I would not drive but for different reasons. I've done this too long and driving a car that is limited in its capability would not appeal to me. But if I was in the earlier stages I would not want to miss a track day and the opportunity to practice and keep learning. You can actually learn a lot by driving a bad car. Just drive cautiously and explore the car's limits before pushing too hard. Be ultra careful near others until you are 100% sure what of what the car can and can't do. It's like driving in the rain, it's not dangerous if you adjust your driving for the conditions and work your way up cautiously from there.

 

Are you doing your own tech inspection for the event?

Simply disclose your issue and see what the organizer decides. Good luck!

FYI With a DSC controller, a wiring fault gives a full stiff state, and that's not a good thing anywhere

 

ebay has used ones for < $200. You could also put a WTB opting on the marketplace here. Those that have converted to race cars or to DCS tend to have the, floating around

 

I am blown away by the thought as well as expertise you have invested in this. First, my ultimate hope is that I can still get the problem resolved before the event. Sadly, I was working on heel/toe with my 2010 CS, only to be totally seduced by the throttle blip on my new CGTS. If it comes that, I plan to brake earlier and downshift later in order make things smoother in the corners. Since the shock in question has just been replaced, I think I’m ok on that. I have been tracking my car for about 13 years, almost exclusively at Road Atlanta where the event will be held, so I know the track very well and have a fair amount of track driving experience. I am not a beginner but an oldster who will turn 77 during the event. I have worked my way up the ranks, so I am not obsessed with lap times to the point of pushing too hard. The reason I am set on driving if at all possible is that at my age, there’s a definite limit on how much more track time I will get. Again, I am much obliged to you for your thought and helpful comments.

 

Thanks, I have been monitoring ebay for these. Just trying to be sure the PASM unit is really the problem. Pretty sure a different unit would have to be recoded by someone with a PIWIS.

 

Which track?

I want to make sure I am not there.

 

Nice one. It’s Road ATL. Keep your distance by all means.