So I'm moving to CL with the next track toy (GT4RS). Those with experience please share your prefer tools, must haves and methods for doing the swap at the track. Thanks!

 

you put a CL conversion on your GT4RS CS?!

Just pick your impact of choice and have a 19mm handy think she has 5 of em.

 

Wish it was a Clubsport....it's a street GT4RS so now got to buy all the CL stuff for the track.

 

I killed myself many times using a breaker bar and a 5 FOOT cheater pipe to break loose the CL after a track weekend.
Then I bought a 6:1 3/4 multiplier drive on EBay.
Made it MUCH easier.
Use only for removal.

Here's a similar one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Proto-6212-...-127632-2357-0

Then I use this to install.

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...37348734107326

Start at the lowest torque setting and check locking spline. If unable to lock, increase torque 10ft-lbs until lock pops out.

 

Always remember the saying "she has a tight a$$" to remember which direction to tighten the wheels.

 

Best advice so far!!!!!

 

Just bought a 12V power system for my QJ. If you are able to stick one on/in your trailer or truck, makes it pretty simple... I use

 

Renntorq device, regular torque wrench, regular jack, Irwin bar clamp for front brake application, moly paste, vinyl gloves, paper towels. I also purchased an extra centerlock socket, not necessary. I do one side of the car at a time. It takes between 30-45 min for all 4 wheels, but I'm old!
You may want to check accuracy and margin of error on generic torque multipliers. They are MUCH less expensive, but usually not as accurate. You can decide for yourself which fits your standards.

 

I have a Quickjack at home but moving it to the track is not an option....must be done with a jack and stands. The RenTorq tools is starting to sound good but will get the large torque wrench and breaker bar anyway.

 

I have someone else do it.

 

I have no plans to bleed brakes or change tires, so I use a little low-profile jack powered by a cordless power drill. I use a torque multiplier, digital torque gauge, and a standard breaker bar and beam torque wrench. Everything (and then some) fits in the frunk. The smaller case also doubles as my mountain bike tool case.

Dream tool would be RennTorque tool - but I can't bring myself to spending that much on a tool.

 

I changed my GT3 CL for the first time at the track yesterday. I used a Proto 6:1 torque multiplier which was sooo easy to set the CLs to the correct torque w/o breaking a sweat. 77 ft/pounds on my SnapOn 1/2" drive torque wrench.

Unfortunately I did bugger up one of my centerlock caps by not seating the hook deep enough and attempted to pry off the aluminum GT3 emblem!

 

Any links to the Proto 6:1 tool? How accurate it is?

 

You don't have to worry about accuracy, just get a digital torque measurement brick. My 4:1 was bang on, not to mention it beeps as well, so you can use that feedback.

 

Lots of good options but I alway used a regular jack and Precision Instruments breaker bar/torque wrench combo ($500). With the car on the ground break the CL's on one side while on the ground.....oh no don't do that....I and 4 others with GT cars did that every track day and then some...over 30 days a summer. Now that the CL's are slightly loosened, jack the car from the rear and both the rear and front will lift off the ground. You can now either spin the CL's off by hand, maybe a slight push with breaker bar or what I use is a regular drill with 3/4 head to spin off the CL's - saves you the tennis elbow for older guys. Change the two tires and then spin on the CL's with the drill again...not intended to tighten or loosen, just spin off/on a lot torque setting. Use a $25 spreader (in reverse position) to put pressure on the brake,by putting one end on the brake pedal and one on the seat...crank spreader to apply pressure. If needed just turn key, it will start now with the pressure on the brake and crank a couple more times now that you have power brakes working. If you have a friend to apply the brakes skip that step or you can do this at very start as well. Now change the Percision Instruments breaker to torque wrench and torque the CL's with car in the air. Drop car to ground and using a 1/2 breaker bar put the 1/2 inch end in the middle of CL and jiggle a little until it locks. Repeat same process for other side.

With practice it should only take 15/20 minutes without breaking a sweat and no help. Better to do yourself as you don't miss steps that way.

Have fun!