dgz924s

switch pull cable? I need one and didn't want to blow 40 bucks on one made for the switch when it appears I can use a bicycle brake cable-- generally speaking.

What is your cable set up? TIA! Dal

M758

Here are a couple shots of mine.



You can easily use bicyle shifter cabling.

I plan on installing a second cable that will be in-cockpit accessable with bike shifter cable.

dgz924s

The pull handle is the part I want to see put together. How would the handle attach to the cable? Thanks Dal

Bill L Seifert

M758's looks pretty good. My first one was a piece of safety wire tied to the switch, and granny knotted to a oil drain washer, taped to the windshield on top of the elect cutoff decal. (I'm from Tennessee, what do you expect, my drivers seat use to be a recliner.) PCA bought it from 1996 til 2000. I doubt they would now. The coolest set up I have seen lately, is the switch inside the car on the roll cage by the dash and passenger door. The decal is just outside the car, and corner workers just reach inside and kill it, and you can reach it from inside. Of course if you are still buckled in, you need arms like an ape. Now mine sticks through the hood on the drivers side, but I think it would not be too cool on a steet car.

Off subject a little. How the heck does M758 get pictures up on these posts so quick. Several times I have seen someone ask a question, and 5 minutes later M758 posts an excellent answer, with pictures attached. I'll bet if someone asked a question about the inside of their gas tank, M758 could show us pictures of one.

Well M758 how do you do it, I am very impressed.

Bill Seifert

1983 944 Race Car

jerome951

I've been told you can use accelerator cable and stick it out from under the hood with just a loop in it.

This also allows you to tuck it under the hood while you're driving on the street and don't want some smart$#s killing your engine while you're in traffic.

M758

Bill... It is called stock footage!

I have bunch of pics from my race car and just zero in on what I need. Then post it either using the upload feature or even better if I already have the pic on my website.

don't ask what i notice the threads so quickly


Back on topic...
My T handle is actually part of fire system pull cable. Actually the entire cable is from one of those. I was not smart enough to use bicycle cable trick when I first put the switch in.

What you stick at the loose end of cable is really up to you. I have seen simple loops as well. Not sure what I will do with my inside cable. I gotta find some handle and then figure how I want to drill a hole.

I did want to mount the actual switch inside the car since it would mean a long run of thick battery cable wires.

Jeff Curtis

...I used Bicyle shifter/deraillure cable...works like a champ! The lead "teardrop" at the end works better with the pull switch key vice the round drop at the end of a brake cable, either one will work though.

Get your aluminum cable crimps at Lowes and use electrician's "stripper" pliers to crimp the cable for your loop.

I found a cheap stethascope (SP??) at Autozone that had RED rubberized tubing on it for $10 and used the red tubing over my exposed cable loop.

In hindsight, will use the liquid rubber coating stuff that comes in cans at your local hardware store next time.

For the switchmount, I bit the bullet and bought the handy-dandy and oh-so good looking one from Dougherty.

DAR951

I need to clean up the mess-o-wires the PO used to wire my kill switch to the roll cage, and also think about going the route of M758...

BUT, I'm so tempted by the possibilities of this setup: http://www.taylorautosport.com/frames2.htm (Gotta go to "Catalog" then "Electrical", then "Main Disconnect".)

Yeah it's powers of magnitude more expensive, but it solves so many problems... multiple disconnect locations, no long cable runs, etc. etc. Very tempting.

John Brown

This from the guy who doesn't read electric schematics?

Actually, other than the homegown solutions discussed here; it can get pricey putting together a cutoff. So the $175 ain't all that bad.

The really neat thing though is that it solves the mechanical challenge of installation.

It says that it is a remote circuit breaker, which would be really neat. But no spec listed. 400 amp? Is it remotely resetable or do you have to cycle the switch?

BTW, aircraft are full of these things.

DAR951

Busted! Was hoping you wouldn't read/recognize the post, 'cause guess who I'm planning to con into "helping" me with the install?!

John Brown

Did I mention bringing good clothes to Mid Ohio?

We'll need to dress for dinner.

Serously, ask them what the amp rating is and is it really a circuit breaker or just a remote switch.

Not that it matters, other than the amp rating which does need to be high enough to carry the cranking load. There is no circuit protection on any of the '30' (battery) feeds in the car as it sits. Or any other makes either. Nor does the starter circuit have protection in stock cars. Probably because high amp breakers cost $175? So, if it really is a breaker that's icing on the cake.