Tying down on a trailer
02-01-2004, 10:08 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Regarding straps:
Which ones do you guys use? I've used Ancra straps for my kart and they are superb. Very easy to use, but they are made for (at least the ones I use) motorcycles.
Thanks.
Rich
Which ones do you guys use? I've used Ancra straps for my kart and they are superb. Very easy to use, but they are made for (at least the ones I use) motorcycles.
Thanks.
Rich
02-02-2004, 09:17 AM
#21
Race Car
FWIW, every year I order TWO straps from Racer Wholesale...or is it Racer Parts Wholesale?? 
I get the 6ft. straps and cut some of the excess strap off the first time I use them. I also buy a couple wheel straps (long and short) from time to time, as they are helpful in case you lose one of your tow hooks (yes, it happens...don't ask) or for the Sports racer, they are handy to wrap around the chassis - providing almost endless tie-down points.
I subscribe to the logic, that like harnesses, the material degrades when sitting in the sun, getting wet, then the sun, laying on the ground at the track, road grime, etc. This works great as I always have extras for friends (the older ones, of course!
) and with the Sports Racer and 911 now, I have different tie-down configurations.
Scott, when I had my SC, I used the factory front tie-down points and a pair of tie down hooks, made by GT Racing (same as Autometrics red ones) that were bolted onto the lower rear shock bolts where they go into the trailing arms. Autometrics sells them a bit cheaper, and the pics on their website provide the best description I've seen yet.
I get the 6ft. straps and cut some of the excess strap off the first time I use them. I also buy a couple wheel straps (long and short) from time to time, as they are helpful in case you lose one of your tow hooks (yes, it happens...don't ask) or for the Sports racer, they are handy to wrap around the chassis - providing almost endless tie-down points.
I subscribe to the logic, that like harnesses, the material degrades when sitting in the sun, getting wet, then the sun, laying on the ground at the track, road grime, etc. This works great as I always have extras for friends (the older ones, of course!
) and with the Sports Racer and 911 now, I have different tie-down configurations.Scott, when I had my SC, I used the factory front tie-down points and a pair of tie down hooks, made by GT Racing (same as Autometrics red ones) that were bolted onto the lower rear shock bolts where they go into the trailing arms. Autometrics sells them a bit cheaper, and the pics on their website provide the best description I've seen yet.
02-02-2004, 10:20 AM
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
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Thread Starter
Jeff, Can I just unbolt the exisiting bolt in the shock base, put it in place and bolt it back up? Any idea of the torque on the bolt? Sounds like sound advise.
Thanks
Thanks
02-02-2004, 01:47 PM
#23
Race Car
That's pretty much what you do, except a little more tricky than that. When you have the rear end jacked up and you release the large bolt, the trailing arm tends to droop to the ground. If you have a second person (say, your Brother 
) available, have him lift up the trailing arm assembly while you line up the bolt again...sometimes you will need to use a floor jack as there's tension on the trailing arm from your torsion bars.
A car with coil-overs would droop and you would have some room to just lift up the assembly to align the bolt.
Scott, I'm a simple man and don't subscribe to what I believe is B.S. when torquing LARGE suspension nuts/bolts. The factory says 397lbs or something for the CV joints on a 964...I just put the 32MM socket on and use the impact - get the drift??
In other words, for the large bolts that hold your shocks onto the trailing arms, I just use the middle setting on my impact ~ 150lbs. I'm quite certain the advised torque isn't far from that...okay, probably just started a "technical" flame-war.
) available, have him lift up the trailing arm assembly while you line up the bolt again...sometimes you will need to use a floor jack as there's tension on the trailing arm from your torsion bars.A car with coil-overs would droop and you would have some room to just lift up the assembly to align the bolt.
Scott, I'm a simple man and don't subscribe to what I believe is B.S. when torquing LARGE suspension nuts/bolts. The factory says 397lbs or something for the CV joints on a 964...I just put the 32MM socket on and use the impact - get the drift??
In other words, for the large bolts that hold your shocks onto the trailing arms, I just use the middle setting on my impact ~ 150lbs. I'm quite certain the advised torque isn't far from that...okay, probably just started a "technical" flame-war.
Last edited by Jeff Curtis; 02-02-2004 at 03:18 PM.
02-02-2004, 03:21 PM
#26
Race Car
Is it only 92ft/lbs?? Okay, I'll buy that...guess it would be the same on my 964 as well, pretty much the same bolt/arrangement.
I corrected the impact (#2 setting) in my previous post...it's a 250lb gun that I use, and 200lbs would be a bit high. Somewhere along the line I knew the torque setting, but between not being able to get the bolts off too easily by hand, I guess I just reverted to using the 'ol impact.
Al -
...I think you're right!
I corrected the impact (#2 setting) in my previous post...it's a 250lb gun that I use, and 200lbs would be a bit high. Somewhere along the line I knew the torque setting, but between not being able to get the bolts off too easily by hand, I guess I just reverted to using the 'ol impact.
Al -
...I think you're right!
02-02-2004, 03:50 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Jeff, Al, Geoffrey, This is great info and appreciated. I think I've got it now. Have 2 floor jacks, 1 brother, and a torque wrench. Work til done, then open bottle of wine and continue to dream until spring...
02-02-2004, 04:01 PM
#28
Race Car
It'll be Spring down HERE in 3 weeks Scott.
C'mon, what's holding you up...we told you how to strap down your car and what oil to use...c'mon now.
...I hear VIR a callin'.
C'mon, what's holding you up...we told you how to strap down your car and what oil to use...c'mon now.
...I hear VIR a callin'.
02-03-2004, 03:17 PM
#30
Racer
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"The absolute best way is to use those ratcheting tire cradle jobs that strap over the tires only....... "
That's what I do with my Cup Car and also as a business moving cars around the UK. These are more secure than just looping the straps thru the wheels -some cars have the spokes too close together or no spokes at all!! Also have chocks at the front of the trailer.
Mel
That's what I do with my Cup Car and also as a business moving cars around the UK. These are more secure than just looping the straps thru the wheels -some cars have the spokes too close together or no spokes at all!! Also have chocks at the front of the trailer.
Mel