KevinGross

I'm about to align my car, once I finish rebuilding the control arms. Last time I aligned it with strings, getting the wheel weights, camber and caster repeatable and correct went well. I found getting the toe right to be a challenge, using a digital micrometer: hard to measure, hard to get it to repeat.

So I'm likely to add a toe tool to the arsenal. Any favorites? Opinions on ART's Dream Stick, for example? TIA!

38D

I have an ART dream stick. It's an awesome piece, but the big issue is you have to realign it to the car every time you raise/lower the car to change the alignment. At some point I will make a mount that bolts it to the car frame. But until then, IMO Smart Strings are better (i have these now too).

Evolved Rs

Smart strings and a machinist rule. Wood wheel stands to get the car high enough off the ground to make adjustments without raising/lowering.

altonj

For the track or home alignment it is hard to beat a smartstring set up.

968workaholic

http://www.bbxracing.com/product_inf...products_id=69

These work awesome with the smart strings, use a ruler that measures in mm

Thundermoose

I use smart strings and a ruler. Honestly, toe plates are good enough for front toe if you can tolerate a steering wheel that my not be dead center when going straight.

amso3

Smart strings with a fine string is the best way to go. I use flourescent red fishing line to help me see it. Getting it set up in the car is crutial, don't rush it just because you are only doing the front. Also, I always measure the same way to avoid the "damn I went the wrong way on my adjustment". I use a good metal ruler with clear mm markings so it is easy to see 1/2 mm, and I always start at the rear lip of the wheel then measure the front. Once you get accustomed to that you don't have to think, is that toe in or toe out?

Mahler9th

I made my own tool that fits to the car. Similar to Smartstrings, but bespoke for my application.

As far as commercial products go, I like the Smartsrings. I observed the product in development and the inventor and seller is a longterm PCA member and racer just like many of us.

Great product with great documentation/operating instructions.

KevinGross

Thanks everyone for the very helpful feedback! I agree that SmartStrings is a great tool. Jerry, I particularly like your suggestion about fluorescent fishing line and will give that a try. Cheers!

fatbillybob

why not toe plates?

amso3

I made a "Bespoke" string set up too! The truth is anything will work if you are dilligent in getting the strings parallel, at the correct height and square to the car. However, the Smart Strings make it look like you are a pro at the track.

Cory M

I started out with jackstands using string, which was a pain. Got the Smartstrings and they make it a lot easier, no need to re-center everything when you raise the car and adjust. They still take a little time to set-up though, so I picked up some toe plates too. The strings are more precise (for me, usually working alone) so that's what I use in the garage, but the toe plates are great for making quick adjustments and correcting off track damage between sessions.

Matt Romanowski

One note on toe plates is that they depend on the rim being straight (as strings do as well) and the tire being "normal" all the way around. If the tire has any amount of bulge or defect in the sidewall it will throw the measurements off. This is why you see people either use dedicated setup wheels or the trend towards some sort of hub stand. Hub stands have some different issues, but are very good.

One a commercial setup, this is why you have to compensate each head. The newest Hunter machines have rolling magic versus the old school leveling at 180* and then 90*

mark kibort

FOR TOE! a little trig is useful here and very simple and accurate.
especially when you are not having to lift the car and effect toe readings

just take a straight edge from rim sides to the ground.. front of the rim vs back of the rim.. use a magic marker on the ground . the inside edge is the measuring point. the part that hit the straight edge on the ground.
now, you have a box. two marks up front and two marks in the rear about 20" apart. now, measure the distance of the front of the rim marks and the back of the rim marks. Example: 70 -1/8" in front, and 70-1/4 in the rear. this means you are 1/8" total toe in. 1/16" toe in per wheel. take the 20" and the 1/16th" and you can get the toe in degrees. .065"/20 INV TAN = degrees