Cup axles...or street car axles
#61
Rennlist Member
Just went the way of 997.2 black axles on the count of $$$... think I'll graduate to blue's/green's only when I get to the last couple 0.1's... or does it even help?
#62
Rennlist Member
Cup axles...or street car axles
My wrench Weighed the blue's and black's ( entire assembly) both weigh exactly 14.5 lbs. I thought the blues would be lighter .
#63
Rennlist Member
#64
Rennlist Member
Update: DO NOT use black street car axles in a Cup. The Cup wheel speed sensor isn't compatible with the "teeth" on street axles. Problem will manifest itself as zero wheel speed detected across both rear wheels--fine if you don't use data but a disaster if you do and rely on RL/RR speeds for calcs / dash / SLM signals.
Wasted me half a day to figure that one out... All morning dash went haywire thinking that the rear wheels have locked
Wasted me half a day to figure that one out... All morning dash went haywire thinking that the rear wheels have locked
#65
Update: DO NOT use black street car axles in a Cup. The Cup wheel speed sensor isn't compatible with the "teeth" on street axles. Problem will manifest itself as zero wheel speed detected across both rear wheels--fine if you don't use data but a disaster if you do and rely on RL/RR speeds for calcs / dash / SLM signals.
Wasted me half a day to figure that one out... All morning dash went haywire thinking that the rear wheels have locked
Wasted me half a day to figure that one out... All morning dash went haywire thinking that the rear wheels have locked
#66
Rennlist Member
The problem surfaced immediately after I switched to street blacks. Wrench confirms that the wheel speed sensor checks out in both rear corners...
#67
I'm using blacks, off the shelf on a 6Cup and no issues at all. Speed sensors, ABS, etc. working fine.
BTW, my strategy is to go blacks and replace after every season or 40 hours. Had the flange portion fail which goes through the upright. Result is a 3 wheel car which is not good. I figure that piece of the axel times out based on cycles of on / off of the center wheel nut.
Why axels are so difficult on these cars is beyond me.....
BTW, my strategy is to go blacks and replace after every season or 40 hours. Had the flange portion fail which goes through the upright. Result is a 3 wheel car which is not good. I figure that piece of the axel times out based on cycles of on / off of the center wheel nut.
Why axels are so difficult on these cars is beyond me.....
#68
Rennlist Member
That's exactly what my wrench said--black axles work on a 6Cup alright, but clearly got my 7's panties in a bunch. Gonna look into the parts catalog to see if it's easier to buy 6Cup wheel speed sensors and co-opt with these blacks...
I know we all b_tch about maintenance costs, but in comparison with F-Challenge / F-GT3 cars we have it pretty darn easy... wrench just quoted a mate $6k for 8 coil packs alone...
I know we all b_tch about maintenance costs, but in comparison with F-Challenge / F-GT3 cars we have it pretty darn easy... wrench just quoted a mate $6k for 8 coil packs alone...
#69
Rennlist Member
Update: picture tells half the story...
The intriguing bit... Both 6 and 7 Cups use the same (magnetic) wheel speed sensor 996.606.406.00, identical to street cars. Blacks have been confirmed to work on a 6. Yet they don't work on a 7... Has anyone experienced otherwise on a 7Cup?
The intriguing bit... Both 6 and 7 Cups use the same (magnetic) wheel speed sensor 996.606.406.00, identical to street cars. Blacks have been confirmed to work on a 6. Yet they don't work on a 7... Has anyone experienced otherwise on a 7Cup?
#71
#72
#73
Rennlist Member
Based on your picture it looks like an 2011 gt3 axle shaft without the speed sensor ring, find an older gt3 axle shaft WITH the speed sensor ring and you should be good.
Hope that helps,
Viking
Hope that helps,
Viking
#74
Rennlist Member
A bit of research overnight...
Apparently the street axles got updated mid-997 cycle and went from "teethed" to "toothless". The corresponding sensor has also gone from one type to another:
996.606.406.00
997.606.407.01
Motorsport axles never went the way of these "newer" sensors and retained the "996" part number through all 997.2's.
I did investigate replacing just the sensors to avoid another axle-out job but that looks unlikely... newer parts have different dimensions and the connectors are different as well.
Looks like it's what it is, new axles, again
Apparently the street axles got updated mid-997 cycle and went from "teethed" to "toothless". The corresponding sensor has also gone from one type to another:
996.606.406.00
997.606.407.01
Motorsport axles never went the way of these "newer" sensors and retained the "996" part number through all 997.2's.
I did investigate replacing just the sensors to avoid another axle-out job but that looks unlikely... newer parts have different dimensions and the connectors are different as well.
Looks like it's what it is, new axles, again
#75
Nordschleife Master
Just to update this thread as I found looking for something else, you need to use the axles from the 996 GT3 or the 996TT. These black axles have the proper ABS ring AND the breather hole for the CV joints.