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I took an 03 apart at 275 hrs because "It must need it" It was perfect inside
To be fair the owner did not shift it at redline every time just most of the time
It's got 250 on the rebuild, running perfect
JRGordon: You say your engine was rebuilt by EPE. Is that European Performance Engineering in Boston? They rebuilt my 2001 Cup at 139 hours for the prior owner and discovered that there was no significant wear. (Easy use...all DE, no race). I am beginning to think these Cup motors can last much longer than motorsports legend suggests.
I had a couple of over rev's this season....one at 9050 and one showing 9200. Not sure of duration...I did a leak down and added the crankcase pressure sensor...Dyno numbers are still spot on. Not sure what good those will do but I did 'em! Engine runs perfectly, no unusual noise or hiccups...It has about 32 hours on it now. My plan is to run it until leak down shows bad numbers or power comes down appreciably. Have heard of many cup engines going into the 150 hour area with no real problems. Going to be very interesting when us grass roots racers start tearing these engines down and analyzing wear. We will probably all learn a thing or two.
My 2005 996 Cup has 120 hours, engine still strong and leak down and compression numbers are excellent.. One of the nicest ones left. Up for sale through Orbit Racing in West Palm Beach FL.
I have a friend looking for a 6cup, the engine could be fine but I would have it opened , that just me. But the trans @ 65hours more than likely needs a very major overhaul. Your price needs to reflect that and it does not IMO.
Mine was downloaded yesterday and packed for shipping. Headed to Gordon Friedman at Autometrics for them to work their magic on my motor! Todd Oppermann will go through the transmission and the shocks (6 in total - one front and one rear spare) are headed to Dave Glen for a rebuild. New halfshafts, new rotors and pads, new starter......
Almost like a zero-hour car again! All for a Cup that is headed for its 14th birthday in April! TWS and COTA are going to be lots of fun this year!!
(I'm re-hijacking as this thread went cold and had some good stuff in it!)
Originally Posted by HiWind
just a hat-tip to glen ...
that was two years ago ... 43 hrs later and car still dynoing the same
and running well ... but now its time
well another 24 hours later ... but I didn't want to push the limit too much
and oil consumption a little higher, starting a little harder etc...
so now I've decide to open her up and review - here's what we found today:
bores & pistons: perfect, no scoring, looks pristine, very little carbon buildup
crank & rods: the same
only problem so far:
chain tensioners - cracks and missing bits
valves & guides: seem reasonable/good but seal test with liquid (avgas) showed a little leaking on 2 or 3 valves
.. will review & measure properly tomorrow but as I have a set of guides, I'm thinking the extra week of time to fit them worth it while I'm in there, right?
Here are the valves covered with avgas to see what runs out .. very little did but a slight wetness as below on 3 of the 12
amazing internals to these heads - like jewellery in there
Purely in the interest of science, I am willing to donate a 05 996 cup motor to be sent to PMNA for rebuilding.
It can then be sent to you for dyno testing, upon completion of your test, just return to me the motor.
We can ask the forum for donations to cover the rebuild costs and shipping costs so that they can definitively have a baseline number in which to compare your build to
i should add that along with the cracked chain rails, one tensioner had come apart
but luckily the circlip and washer were still with the spring (though not correctly compressing it)
and had not been sent through the engine in any way luckily.
also on closer inspection I see one of the feet/tabs on the oil cooler heat / exchanger is badly cracked
and looks like it'll come off easily ... worth replacing or can it be re-attached?
Clearly all 4 feet need to be well bolted down to ensure the seal. Guess there's no question really for a $200 part.
also on closer inspection I see one of the feet/tabs on the oil cooler heat / exchanger is badly cracked
and looks like it'll come off easily ... worth replacing or can it be re-attached?
Clearly all 4 feet need to be well bolted down to ensure the seal. Guess there's no question really for a $200 part.
Common failure the later superseded coolers have thicker feet if I remember correctly.
12-21-2014, 10:35 AM
