Im actually looking to use a 996 gt3 cup for paved road rallying which requires transits on public roads with the general public.
First thing is the suspension. I have to raise the height to that of a street car and set it accoringly for bumps and pot holes. (so forget being competitive on the track)
Secondly, i will use a dealer plate, but if your DMV is easy to pass a VIN, local garage safty inspection and Bill of sale, no questions asked, then you can pull it off. DMV limited of course. And dont show them the *NOT ROAD LEGAL* letter from porsche.
I will try to pull it off and let you guys know. Other then that it is dealer plate with dealer insurance for me.

But even when on the road, no A/C, no sound insulation, no real driver-passenger windows becomes tiresome unless you only do it on weekends for coffee and a paper
Very cool though. All the hot rodder crowd loves it! Not many people wanna mess with you at the lights....although they would like to try.

(I have done this before with my current rally car)

 

Why not just use a street GT3 and add whatever cup car parts you feel are necessary?

 

I drove my US Carrera Cup car 500 miles, it is in full race specs. It was long drive and w/o heat I froze my butt off. I guess these Euro "real" cup guys just must be jealous, those are like belly buttons, everyone had one.
Phil

 

mine is a daily driver (not a comfortable one but one none the less)
i'm i wimp - i have heat and carpet

 

The cost assoiciated with taking a perfectly nice 2004 gt3 street and gutting it, FIA approved roll cage install and everything else involved to prep it for competition use cost so much time and money, it is actually easier and cheaper to use a gt3 cup for the job.

The problem is also the fact of taking a perfectly good gt3 street car and molesting it to the point of bad resale in the future, whereas cups will always have their place as factory built competition cars and hold a certain value.

The only benefit i can see with taking a gt3 street car and adding cup parts is the registration process for the owner at DMV, if the wish to beable drive it on the street more less legal.

For my type of use, i personally want a factory installed cage and no access wireing/accessories remaining in the car. Same for the air bags.

 

The GT3 cup clutch will not really work on the street. Having the turning circle of a cruise ship is no fun either. Also there is insufficient engine cooling for travel at any legal speed (no fans). Other than that it will be unbearable to drive but I wish you luck, at least it's not as bad as a 997 cup, the sequential gearbox with full throttle shifting would not work at ALL on the street.

 

thanks for the tip.

I never knew that about the cup motor and clutch. Same goes for the turning radius.

Im actually using a gt3 street engine and transmission swaped from a wreck, so my cooling and clutch problems wont be, however the steering i never really though about until now.

Could you tell me about the steering?
should i salvage the steering from the wreck gt3 street too?

 

Seems to me a like a good idea to keep that vin number on the 996 tub that you so pinstakinly installed a factory style GT3 cup cage, and Street GT3 running gear in.

 

ahhh, very nice..... very nice indeed..... thx for the idea. Keep the title of the wrecked gt3 street car.

i wonder what the process is for salvaged titles being put back on the road?

 

There has been more and more investigation on VIN swaps in the last couple years. Many states have already gone to electronic reporting to match up VINs to insurance policies, and many have VIN databases that are developing that are catching issues.

Between the title washing that has been happening with street rods, replicas, and the "legally" imported Japanese "tuner" cars and such, things are getting tighter.

 

996 and on Cupcars are going to be totally useless for the street.

 

the process in which taking a GT3 street car to Cup specs applies the same to taking a GT3 cup down to Street specs. (transmission, suspension, engine, tires)

The tub from both cars are the same foundation in which everything is based on.

One comes with a cage, the other dosnt. All the rest are just interchangable parts.

So that being said, in theory it is possible. Nort comfortable, but possible.

Although i agree the 997 cup's with plexi windshields and no ABS are not really what you would want for light road duty and same goes for 996 cups with no A/C or comforts being the latter.

A 996 cup is probably the last of the comp cars that one could possibly use on the street with proper modifications. For limited use of course. (street engine & transmission, street tires, suspension)
I wouldnt count on it being the fastest at the track mind you, but one could drive to the track, play for the day and then drive back home in theory......

 

I have to ask.............have you ever driven a cup car? I can't possibly imagine why anyone would try and drive one on the street. You would not be able to turn, stop, idle, shift, hear, or retain your sanity if you did.

 

i have never used a cup car before....... however my last paved road rally car was an open header, 1996 GM F-BODY, completly gutted with fiberglass doors and hatch, modified v8 and World Challenge spec suspension.
Basically a world challenge car with open exhaust, no windows and a licence plate for transit sections of targa racing.

my goal is to run an early model 996 cup car, modified to turn, stop, idle and shift on the street.

Check out this youtube video to see what mean. enter: PORSCHE GT3 RALLY RIDE DE WALLONIE 2005

 

youtube: Wartburg Rallye 2007 Dobberkau / Hinneberg Porsche 911 GT3