WTB: 991.1 Cup
#1
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I have been tracking my 991.2 S with tons of mods for the past 5 years and I am looking to upgrade to a cup car. I have spoken to a couple of really cool forum members that have given me some good direction, thank you both. I am looking for a lower hour well maintained 991.1 Cup. If anyone knows of any out there please reach out.
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ProCoach (07-05-2024)
#2
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991.2 maintence costs are lower. I happen to have one for sale :-)
I have been tracking my 991.2 S with tons of mods for the past 5 years and I am looking to upgrade to a cup car. I have spoken to a couple of really cool forum members that have given me some good direction, thank you both. I am looking for a lower hour well maintained 991.1 Cup. If anyone knows of any out there please reach out.
#3
#4
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We have one for sale. It has a few hrs on it but still plenty left before a rebuild. Very good value for a fast car.
2014 991.1 GT3 Cup - Race Cars For You
2014 991.1 GT3 Cup - Race Cars For You
#5
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We have one for sale. It has a few hrs on it but still plenty left before a rebuild. Very good value for a fast car.
2014 991.1 GT3 Cup - Race Cars For You
2014 991.1 GT3 Cup - Race Cars For You
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#8
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The .1 and .2 are pretty much the same car except for the engine. The .2 engine can suffer from oil pressure problems when the car is spun off track and the engine is run backwards. The oil pump drive gear can come loose and eventually it has a sudden loss of oil pressure resulting in a catastrophic engine failure. The .1 engine isn't as susceptible to those sort of problems. The difference between a "normal" rebuild and one resulting from the oil pressure loss is significant. Ballpark 30 vs 50.
The power of the .2 is very nice to have but I have never heard anyone really complain about the .1 being slow.
IMO I would get the newest car the fits the budget. The operating cost is so similar that its hard to quantify a difference.
Things to look for when shopping a 991:
Engine/Trans hrs.
Shift component hrs (compressor, actuator, valve block)
Brake caliper condition/rebuild history
Clutch and Clutch slave hrs. (the slaves leak and fail after 3-4 years)
Fuel cell foam condition. (the cell date typically doesn't matter for club use)
Crash history (front box, rear horseshoe, shock towers replaced?, has it been re-tubbed?, quarter panel repair?).
Included accessories (wheels, wand, wheel socket, cool shirt, radio, Data system, camera ect...)
ABS?
The power of the .2 is very nice to have but I have never heard anyone really complain about the .1 being slow.
IMO I would get the newest car the fits the budget. The operating cost is so similar that its hard to quantify a difference.
Things to look for when shopping a 991:
Engine/Trans hrs.
Shift component hrs (compressor, actuator, valve block)
Brake caliper condition/rebuild history
Clutch and Clutch slave hrs. (the slaves leak and fail after 3-4 years)
Fuel cell foam condition. (the cell date typically doesn't matter for club use)
Crash history (front box, rear horseshoe, shock towers replaced?, has it been re-tubbed?, quarter panel repair?).
Included accessories (wheels, wand, wheel socket, cool shirt, radio, Data system, camera ect...)
ABS?
#9
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Thread Starter
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The .1 and .2 are pretty much the same car except for the engine. The .2 engine can suffer from oil pressure problems when the car is spun off track and the engine is run backwards. The oil pump drive gear can come loose and eventually it has a sudden loss of oil pressure resulting in a catastrophic engine failure. The .1 engine isn't as susceptible to those sort of problems. The difference between a "normal" rebuild and one resulting from the oil pressure loss is significant. Ballpark 30 vs 50.
The power of the .2 is very nice to have but I have never heard anyone really complain about the .1 being slow.
IMO I would get the newest car the fits the budget. The operating cost is so similar that its hard to quantify a difference.
Things to look for when shopping a 991:
Engine/Trans hrs.
Shift component hrs (compressor, actuator, valve block)
Brake caliper condition/rebuild history
Clutch and Clutch slave hrs. (the slaves leak and fail after 3-4 years)
Fuel cell foam condition. (the cell date typically doesn't matter for club use)
Crash history (front box, rear horseshoe, shock towers replaced?, has it been re-tubbed?, quarter panel repair?).
Included accessories (wheels, wand, wheel socket, cool shirt, radio, Data system, camera ect...)
ABS?
The power of the .2 is very nice to have but I have never heard anyone really complain about the .1 being slow.
IMO I would get the newest car the fits the budget. The operating cost is so similar that its hard to quantify a difference.
Things to look for when shopping a 991:
Engine/Trans hrs.
Shift component hrs (compressor, actuator, valve block)
Brake caliper condition/rebuild history
Clutch and Clutch slave hrs. (the slaves leak and fail after 3-4 years)
Fuel cell foam condition. (the cell date typically doesn't matter for club use)
Crash history (front box, rear horseshoe, shock towers replaced?, has it been re-tubbed?, quarter panel repair?).
Included accessories (wheels, wand, wheel socket, cool shirt, radio, Data system, camera ect...)
ABS?
#10
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I have a stunning 991.1
2014 ..engine and box rebuilt by Porsche With Hardly any running
new shafts / shocks massive list done with full invoice receipts
75k spent on car not long ago . Won’t find better car imo
Pm me can have a chat or leave your email address below il mail you
thanks
2014 ..engine and box rebuilt by Porsche With Hardly any running
new shafts / shocks massive list done with full invoice receipts
75k spent on car not long ago . Won’t find better car imo
Pm me can have a chat or leave your email address below il mail you
thanks
Last edited by cupcarracer; 07-02-2024 at 04:34 PM.
#11
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Both of these cars are good value. I've looked at the 1st in person:
https://racecarsforyou.com/listing/p...1-gt3-cup-car/
https://racecarsforyou.com/listing/2014-991-1-gt3-cup/
https://racecarsforyou.com/listing/p...1-gt3-cup-car/
https://racecarsforyou.com/listing/2014-991-1-gt3-cup/
#12
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I've been thinking about selling my 991.1 cup for a while now, only to jump in a .2, but it is pretty hard to let go to such a great car, especially when I see that it can still keep up with .2s in our PCA/POC races, with no problems.
The engine has the same torque and power now at 80 h like it had when I bought it at 40 h.
We recently dropped the gearbox for a 30-hour refresh, just very few small items needed attention.
I mean these 991.1 cups are such great machines, you will not regret getting one, I am sure.
The engine has the same torque and power now at 80 h like it had when I bought it at 40 h.
We recently dropped the gearbox for a 30-hour refresh, just very few small items needed attention.
I mean these 991.1 cups are such great machines, you will not regret getting one, I am sure.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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I've been thinking about selling my 991.1 cup for a while now, only to jump in a .2, but it is pretty hard to let go to such a great car, especially when I see that it can still keep up with .2s in our PCA/POC races, with no problems.
The engine has the same torque and power now at 80 h like it had when I bought it at 40 h.
We recently dropped the gearbox for a 30-hour refresh, just very few small items needed attention.
I mean these 991.1 cups are such great machines, you will not regret getting one, I am sure.
The engine has the same torque and power now at 80 h like it had when I bought it at 40 h.
We recently dropped the gearbox for a 30-hour refresh, just very few small items needed attention.
I mean these 991.1 cups are such great machines, you will not regret getting one, I am sure.
#14
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Hi OP,
I bought a 40 hour 991.1 Cup last September, did a lot of track days learning how to use it. I raced it with PCA, IGT, and PBOC (at Sebring, Lime Rock, Watkins Glen) with good results. The car managed 7/7 wins in PCA GTC6 and 2/3 wins in IGT's GT3.8 class. Even against faster 991.2s and 992s, the car placed 3rd overall in the IGT enduro at Lime Rock and 4th overall at the PCA Enduro at the Glen. Not bad for a 2016 car.
I just bought a 992 Cup this past week because as a driver, I would like to see how far I can go with no power disadvantage. But I'm having a hard time wanting to sell my 991.1. It's a beautiful car, is finally perfectly dialed in, has never been any real trouble mechanically, and selling it won't give me enough money to make me happy letting it go. That said, if you have questions about the platform or about my car specifically, happy to answer them for you.
One word of caution, you said you were "tracking" your current car, and so I wasn't sure whether you're currently running slicks, have trackside support, etc. Aside from the cost of transporting the car to the track, maintenance on the equipment, alignments etc. between events is really the same as it was when I was also "tracking" my GT3 RS. However, the cup car is not just a stripped version of the street car. It has a lot of quirks, from the kind of fuel it takes to the tape you have to add and remove from the front radiator grilles to make sure the car stays within temp, to the fact that you can't idle while waiting in grid or you'll overheat the car (no cooling fans). It won't start with water temp over 105C and needs to be allowed time to cool down. Occasionally it's hard to get moving, the turning circle is very very wide, and sometimes the car ends up between gears and the transmission can't shift to get you moving without a shove or an extra dip of the clutch. These quirks have been fun, but have tended to make me want trackside support. The second major change has been the tires. Wow, I thought I spent money on tires before I got a Cup car, but I was wrong. If you want to be quick, you need fresh tires, and fresh tires cost about $3,600 a set. During a race weekend I might go through 2 or 3. For trackdays I can use my old race scrubs, but when I am trying to figure out how to drive as fast as possible, it's hard to drive on burned tires. So, when you add that cost to trackside support, plus fuel, plus my own accommodations, and any repairs, it's a different level even though the theoretical running costs are similar. One upside, the 991 cup has amazing brakes with endurance pads, and I find that I have to change them far less often than I had to change my GT3's PFC steels. YMMV as they say, but wanted to say that just in case you hadn't heard it from anyone else. Of course learning to drive a cup car well has been one of the most fulfilling accomplishments of my driving life if not my entire life. So if you're after that thrill at any cost, and are willing to put in the time (and the spins) to achieve some level of control, I can't think of a better car than the 991.1.
I bought a 40 hour 991.1 Cup last September, did a lot of track days learning how to use it. I raced it with PCA, IGT, and PBOC (at Sebring, Lime Rock, Watkins Glen) with good results. The car managed 7/7 wins in PCA GTC6 and 2/3 wins in IGT's GT3.8 class. Even against faster 991.2s and 992s, the car placed 3rd overall in the IGT enduro at Lime Rock and 4th overall at the PCA Enduro at the Glen. Not bad for a 2016 car.
I just bought a 992 Cup this past week because as a driver, I would like to see how far I can go with no power disadvantage. But I'm having a hard time wanting to sell my 991.1. It's a beautiful car, is finally perfectly dialed in, has never been any real trouble mechanically, and selling it won't give me enough money to make me happy letting it go. That said, if you have questions about the platform or about my car specifically, happy to answer them for you.
One word of caution, you said you were "tracking" your current car, and so I wasn't sure whether you're currently running slicks, have trackside support, etc. Aside from the cost of transporting the car to the track, maintenance on the equipment, alignments etc. between events is really the same as it was when I was also "tracking" my GT3 RS. However, the cup car is not just a stripped version of the street car. It has a lot of quirks, from the kind of fuel it takes to the tape you have to add and remove from the front radiator grilles to make sure the car stays within temp, to the fact that you can't idle while waiting in grid or you'll overheat the car (no cooling fans). It won't start with water temp over 105C and needs to be allowed time to cool down. Occasionally it's hard to get moving, the turning circle is very very wide, and sometimes the car ends up between gears and the transmission can't shift to get you moving without a shove or an extra dip of the clutch. These quirks have been fun, but have tended to make me want trackside support. The second major change has been the tires. Wow, I thought I spent money on tires before I got a Cup car, but I was wrong. If you want to be quick, you need fresh tires, and fresh tires cost about $3,600 a set. During a race weekend I might go through 2 or 3. For trackdays I can use my old race scrubs, but when I am trying to figure out how to drive as fast as possible, it's hard to drive on burned tires. So, when you add that cost to trackside support, plus fuel, plus my own accommodations, and any repairs, it's a different level even though the theoretical running costs are similar. One upside, the 991 cup has amazing brakes with endurance pads, and I find that I have to change them far less often than I had to change my GT3's PFC steels. YMMV as they say, but wanted to say that just in case you hadn't heard it from anyone else. Of course learning to drive a cup car well has been one of the most fulfilling accomplishments of my driving life if not my entire life. So if you're after that thrill at any cost, and are willing to put in the time (and the spins) to achieve some level of control, I can't think of a better car than the 991.1.
Last edited by RussellNYC; 07-11-2024 at 01:07 PM.
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razyus77 (07-11-2024)
#15
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Thread Starter
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Hi OP,
I bought a 40 hour 991.1 Cup last September, did a lot of track days learning how to use it. I raced it with PCA, IGT, and PBOC (at Sebring, Lime Rock, Watkins Glen) with good results. The car managed 7/7 wins in PCA GTC6 and 2/3 wins in IGT's GT3.8 class. Even against faster 991.2s and 992s, the car placed 3rd overall in the IGT enduro at Lime Rock and 4th overall at the PCA Enduro at the Glen. Not bad for a 2016 car.
I just bought a 992 Cup this past week because as a driver, I would like to see how far I can go with no power disadvantage. But I'm having a hard time wanting to sell my 991.1. It's a beautiful car, is finally perfectly dialed in, has never been any real trouble mechanically, and selling it won't give me enough money to make me happy letting it go. That said, if you have questions about the platform or about my car specifically, happy to answer them for you.
One word of caution, you said you were "tracking" your current car, and so I wasn't sure whether you're currently running slicks, have trackside support, etc. Aside from the cost of transporting the car to the track, maintenance on the equipment, alignments etc. between events is really the same as it was when I was also "tracking" my GT3 RS. However, the cup car is not just a stripped version of the street car. It has a lot of quirks, from the kind of fuel it takes to the tape you have to add and remove from the front radiator grilles to make sure the car stays within temp, to the fact that you can't idle while waiting in grid or you'll overheat the car (no cooling fans). It won't start with water temp over 105C and needs to be allowed time to cool down. Occasionally it's hard to get moving, the turning circle is very very wide, and sometimes the car ends up between gears and the transmission can't shift to get you moving without a shove or an extra dip of the clutch. These quirks have been fun, but have tended to make me want trackside support. The second major change has been the tires. Wow, I thought I spent money on tires before I got a Cup car, but I was wrong. If you want to be quick, you need fresh tires, and fresh tires cost about $3,600 a set. During a race weekend I might go through 2 or 3. For trackdays I can use my old race scrubs, but when I am trying to figure out how to drive as fast as possible, it's hard to drive on burned tires. So, when you add that cost to trackside support, plus fuel, plus my own accommodations, and any repairs, it's a different level even though the theoretical running costs are similar. One upside, the 991 cup has amazing brakes with endurance pads, and I find that I have to change them far less often than I had to change my GT3's PFC steels. YMMV as they say, but wanted to say that just in case you hadn't heard it from anyone else. Of course learning to drive a cup car well has been one of the most fulfilling accomplishments of my driving life if not my entire life. So if you're after that thrill at any cost, and are willing to put in the time (and the spins) to achieve some level of control, I can't think of a better car than the 991.1.
I bought a 40 hour 991.1 Cup last September, did a lot of track days learning how to use it. I raced it with PCA, IGT, and PBOC (at Sebring, Lime Rock, Watkins Glen) with good results. The car managed 7/7 wins in PCA GTC6 and 2/3 wins in IGT's GT3.8 class. Even against faster 991.2s and 992s, the car placed 3rd overall in the IGT enduro at Lime Rock and 4th overall at the PCA Enduro at the Glen. Not bad for a 2016 car.
I just bought a 992 Cup this past week because as a driver, I would like to see how far I can go with no power disadvantage. But I'm having a hard time wanting to sell my 991.1. It's a beautiful car, is finally perfectly dialed in, has never been any real trouble mechanically, and selling it won't give me enough money to make me happy letting it go. That said, if you have questions about the platform or about my car specifically, happy to answer them for you.
One word of caution, you said you were "tracking" your current car, and so I wasn't sure whether you're currently running slicks, have trackside support, etc. Aside from the cost of transporting the car to the track, maintenance on the equipment, alignments etc. between events is really the same as it was when I was also "tracking" my GT3 RS. However, the cup car is not just a stripped version of the street car. It has a lot of quirks, from the kind of fuel it takes to the tape you have to add and remove from the front radiator grilles to make sure the car stays within temp, to the fact that you can't idle while waiting in grid or you'll overheat the car (no cooling fans). It won't start with water temp over 105C and needs to be allowed time to cool down. Occasionally it's hard to get moving, the turning circle is very very wide, and sometimes the car ends up between gears and the transmission can't shift to get you moving without a shove or an extra dip of the clutch. These quirks have been fun, but have tended to make me want trackside support. The second major change has been the tires. Wow, I thought I spent money on tires before I got a Cup car, but I was wrong. If you want to be quick, you need fresh tires, and fresh tires cost about $3,600 a set. During a race weekend I might go through 2 or 3. For trackdays I can use my old race scrubs, but when I am trying to figure out how to drive as fast as possible, it's hard to drive on burned tires. So, when you add that cost to trackside support, plus fuel, plus my own accommodations, and any repairs, it's a different level even though the theoretical running costs are similar. One upside, the 991 cup has amazing brakes with endurance pads, and I find that I have to change them far less often than I had to change my GT3's PFC steels. YMMV as they say, but wanted to say that just in case you hadn't heard it from anyone else. Of course learning to drive a cup car well has been one of the most fulfilling accomplishments of my driving life if not my entire life. So if you're after that thrill at any cost, and are willing to put in the time (and the spins) to achieve some level of control, I can't think of a better car than the 991.1.
I will for sure reach out to you. Ive had so many people PM me that I have befriended and had great conversations with off of the forums.
My 911 is far from stock, I have been running true slicks for almost 4 years on the car. With AP Brakes, MCS suspension, full monoballs on all suspension joints. So yes about the same as your GT3RS. I appreciate all these little tips and tricks. Fortunately for me I have a good friend who is also my mechanic for the heavy lifting that is willing to help me. He has been supporting one of our good freinds who has been racing a .1 cup in IGT and PCA events. He knows the ins and outs, thankfully. I know exactly what you are saying on tires, and I have bought scrubs the entire time I have been on slicks. On my 997.1 as well. I know stickers are faster, just the cost keeps me away from them. And I am only a trackday guy not looking to go racing so this fits. What it comes down to I am at the limit of my cars safety. Having run some pretty fast times (comparable and faster than some GT cars) at all the tracks around here I know I am at the limit of the car safely. So I am excited to give this a try. Again thank you for your input.