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Welcome to the fun! I bought my 997.1 last year and had my 3rd outing a few weeks ago and I’m still learning about the switches and lights. I found the low fuel indicator after it started to come on intermittently, then started to stay on continuously. Thankfully never ran out!
My car has a KMP shifter and it uses the same red covered switch. I never touch that switch and will try to find instructions but I think it puts the KMP I to emergency mode, bypassing it’s restrictions on when it will allow you to shift.
in normal operation there are 4 states - reverse, neutral, first and 2+. Gear should be indicated on your motec, but may only show in some modes - for mine I think only Race shows the gear properly.
Always clutch for shifts to or from neutral
to shift from neutral to 1st: hold the right paddle and tap the left once
1st to neutral: hold left and tap right
neutral to reverse: hold left and tap right
reverse to neutral: hold right and tap left
or think of it as: hold the shift direction(right is up, left is down) you want and tap the other paddle once
if making multiple shifts - like reverse up to first, clutch out between them. It seems to update the KMP state.
re the idle - mine needs to warm up a bit before it will hold the idle, so I need to hold a little throttle after start. Curious from others if this is “normal”
Some of the other button behaviors - like your motec buttons and steering wheel buttons can be controlled through the motec programming, so you either have to trial and error, or connect to the motec and see how it’s configured. It’s not hard if you are somewhat technically inclined - usb cable and the motec dash manager software. If not, there are motec experts around (including on the data acquisition forum here) that could likely work through it remotely with you. My best example of this is the motec fuel level indicator. On mine I have to hold one of the buttons for 3 seconds to reset it’s counter after a fill up.
Yes, the Main and in tank are both fuel pumps. Actually, if your car is like mine, the main switch energizes two external electric pumps and the In tank switch energizes two internal (fuel cell), pumps. Since your switch panel sports a low fuel light, I’m guessing you have a 100L fuel cell and that low fuel or fuel tell tale light illuminates when 20L remains.
Your paddle shift system should have a controller and a pneumatic or hydraulic (or both), pump located somewhere inside the car. Both items will be branded.
That Red covered switch looks a lot like the paddle shift system disengage switch on my car.
The Main switch energizes the electrical system.
By the way, I don’t turn the fuel pumps on and off on my car. Those switches are always down when I get in and out of the car. The mechanics may turn those off when the car is going to sit for a while, but I don’t know for sure.
Finally, If you got a bunch of White smoke on initial start up, I wouldn’t recommend another attempt. You may have some kind of coolant problem.
Thanks for the info. Any idea where to start to figure out if coolant in getting into the combustion chamber? I guess I'll check the level first. I'm guessing that would be a head gasket problem? Is this common from sitting? Low hours on the refresh.
Welcome to the fun! I bought my 997.1 last year and had my 3rd outing a few weeks ago and I’m still learning about the switches and lights. I found the low fuel indicator after it started to come on intermittently, then started to stay on continuously. Thankfully never ran out!
My car has a KMP shifter and it uses the same red covered switch. I never touch that switch and will try to find instructions but I think it puts the KMP I to emergency mode, bypassing it’s restrictions on when it will allow you to shift.
in normal operation there are 4 states - reverse, neutral, first and 2+. Gear should be indicated on your motec, but may only show in some modes - for mine I think only Race shows the gear properly.
Always clutch for shifts to or from neutral
to shift from neutral to 1st: hold the right paddle and tap the left once
1st to neutral: hold left and tap right
neutral to reverse: hold left and tap right
reverse to neutral: hold right and tap left
or think of it as: hold the shift direction(right is up, left is down) you want and tap the other paddle once
if making multiple shifts - like reverse up to first, clutch out between them. It seems to update the KMP state.
re the idle - mine needs to warm up a bit before it will hold the idle, so I need to hold a little throttle after start. Curious from others if this is “normal”
Some of the other button behaviors - like your motec buttons and steering wheel buttons can be controlled through the motec programming, so you either have to trial and error, or connect to the motec and see how it’s configured. It’s not hard if you are somewhat technically inclined - usb cable and the motec dash manager software. If not, there are motec experts around (including on the data acquisition forum here) that could likely work through it remotely with you. My best example of this is the motec fuel level indicator. On mine I have to hold one of the buttons for 3 seconds to reset it’s counter after a fill up.
Thanks for the detailed descriptions. That helps a lot. I'm very surprised the shifter kid didn't come with instructions. If you have a source for that I'd like to get my hands on a copy. Is the default position of the red covered switch in the down position with the cover down too? The to get into override mode do you flip it up? That would make sense.
The white smoke could be an accumulation of oil from sitting that seeped thru valve stems into the chambers. With it sitting that long between starts, would lead to that. Fire it up again and check the oil for coolant contamination...
Welcome to the fun! I bought my 997.1 last year and had my 3rd outing a few weeks ago and I’m still learning about the switches and lights. I found the low fuel indicator after it started to come on intermittently, then started to stay on continuously. Thankfully never ran out!
My car has a KMP shifter and it uses the same red covered switch. I never touch that switch and will try to find instructions but I think it puts the KMP I to emergency mode, bypassing it’s restrictions on when it will allow you to shift.
in normal operation there are 4 states - reverse, neutral, first and 2+. Gear should be indicated on your motec, but may only show in some modes - for mine I think only Race shows the gear properly.
Always clutch for shifts to or from neutral
to shift from neutral to 1st: hold the right paddle and tap the left once
1st to neutral: hold left and tap right
neutral to reverse: hold left and tap right
reverse to neutral: hold right and tap left
or think of it as: hold the shift direction(right is up, left is down) you want and tap the other paddle once
if making multiple shifts - like reverse up to first, clutch out between them. It seems to update the KMP state.
re the idle - mine needs to warm up a bit before it will hold the idle, so I need to hold a little throttle after start. Curious from others if this is “normal”
Some of the other button behaviors - like your motec buttons and steering wheel buttons can be controlled through the motec programming, so you either have to trial and error, or connect to the motec and see how it’s configured. It’s not hard if you are somewhat technically inclined - usb cable and the motec dash manager software. If not, there are motec experts around (including on the data acquisition forum here) that could likely work through it remotely with you. My best example of this is the motec fuel level indicator. On mine I have to hold one of the buttons for 3 seconds to reset it’s counter after a fill up.
"Fun" is right. In my day job, we spend dozens of hours in classrooms and simulators before ever stepping foot into the real thing, so my first time in the car was a bit of a challenge.
I guess the funniest of all the funny things that happened to me that day was when I had pulled over to the side of the track with a shifting problem (couldn't get out of first gear), and I was calmly discussing the situation with my mechanic over the radio. After a few minutes, he asked me what the engine temperature was. I said where do I find that? He told me where to look and I responded that it was 229 degrees. He said shut the engine down right now! As I was being towed back to the pits, we chatted about how these cars don't have radiator fans and will overheat sitting still.
The take away from this is I highly recommend you try and familiarize yourself with the car including the basics of the various systems. Find out what every switch and button does. Learn how to operate your display and know all the critical temps and limits. Also, it's a good idea to practice an emergency egress from the car. Have someone time you and do it sighted and blindfolded. There is a lot of info on the internet. A good place to start would be to download the pdf on the MoTec ADL2.
WRT the paddle shifter, my car is fitted with a MegaLine paddle shifter. Here is a picture of the tunnel mounted console showing the "reverse" (yellow) button as well as that guarded disconnect switch:
To shift into reverse with this set up, you select neutral, then push the yellow button.
Here's a link to a pdf describing this system including how to operate. If you could determine the brand of your system, you could download the same information that will answer all your questions:
I agree it's probably safe to try another start attempt. If the smoke clears pretty quick it very well could be residual oil that seeped in. It's the "White" smoke that concerns me because that's usually indicative of water or coolant present.
The white smoke could be an accumulation of oil from sitting that seeped thru valve stems into the chambers. With it sitting that long between starts, would lead to that. Fire it up again and check the oil for coolant contamination...
I think that is it. The coolant level is fine and looking at the airbox there is a bunch of oil accumulated. It's been sitting at least 18mo since it was started last time. I talked to the Master Certified tech at my dealer and he said that is not uncommon at all. What the round aluminum thing with the oil in it? I'll clean it out and try it again.
I imagine the fuel in the car isn't the best in the word. I didn't smell it to check that. The car has a larger tank installed. I'm not sure of the size. ISMA? Is that the race series? I can buy no ethanol premium here in KC.
Thanks for the detailed descriptions. That helps a lot. I'm very surprised the shifter kid didn't come with instructions. If you have a source for that I'd like to get my hands on a copy. Is the default position of the red covered switch in the down position with the cover down too? The to get into override mode do you flip it up? That would make sense.
There is a picture of the components on page 5 and if you have the KMP, you should have the yellow/orange aluminum control unit and compressor mounted in your cockpit somewhere -- likely behind the passenger seat. I think both are labeled KMP.
I've never touched my override switch so I can't tell you what its orientation is. Now that I found it, I'll have to read that manual!
"Fun" is right. In my day job, we spend dozens of hours in classrooms and simulators before ever stepping foot into the real thing, so my first time in the car was a bit of a challenge.
I guess the funniest of all the funny things that happened to me that day was when I had pulled over to the side of the track with a shifting problem (couldn't get out of first gear), and I was calmly discussing the situation with my mechanic over the radio. After a few minutes, he asked me what the engine temperature was. I said where do I find that? He told me where to look and I responded that it was 229 degrees. He said shut the engine down right now! As I was being towed back to the pits, we chatted about how these cars don't have radiator fans and will overheat sitting still.
My first experience with the lack of cooling, was when I took it for a drive around the neighborhood near my mechanic's place. I discovered at a stop light when the alerts started popping up that stop lights are bad. Driving 15mph behind a bus wasn't great either. Staging at DE events have generally been a problem too -- I've learned not to get there too early and have to sit. That also taught me the battery that came with the car was only good for about 3 starts.
This week's lesson is that fuel cell bladders wear out and leak. This car is the gift that keeps on giving, yet somehow I'm still smiling!
The silver stud sticking up is a sensor (air temp?). The rubber plug behind it gets pulled when you're running in the rain so water can drain and not get sucked into the intake. PM me your email and I can send a pdf of the factory operating manual for my '06 997.1 as it covers a lot of what you need...
There is a picture of the components on page 5 and if you have the KMP, you should have the yellow/orange aluminum control unit and compressor mounted in your cockpit somewhere -- likely behind the passenger seat. I think both are labeled KMP.
I've never touched my override switch so I can't tell you what its orientation is. Now that I found it, I'll have to read that manual!
Thanks. I'll look tomorrow and see what I can find.
I think that is it. The coolant level is fine and looking at the airbox there is a bunch of oil accumulated. It's been sitting at least 18mo since it was started last time. I talked to the Master Certified tech at my dealer and he said that is not uncommon at all. What the round aluminum thing with the oil in it? I'll clean it out and try it again.
I imagine the fuel in the car isn't the best in the word. I didn't smell it to check that. The car has a larger tank installed. I'm not sure of the size. ISMA? Is that the race series? I can buy no ethanol premium here in KC.
I‘ve never seen so much oil in that part of the intake! Even when our cars sit for years that does not happen...
First guess here: Someone doesen‘t know how the dry-sump works and overfilled the car massively with oil!
I wouldn‘t start it again before the oil has been checked!
Drain both the oil tank and the block, then re-add about 7.5 liters. That is enough to let it run safely to check the level at 85* Celsius oil temperature!
another thing to be cautious of would be the heat exchanger that sits middle top of the motor.
We had one fail in a 09 cup after sitting for the winter in California. lots of water in the oil
Was a easy enough fix.
pulled motor and and BBI install a new one and inspect for water damage.
we got lucky and it had failed when I started the car so no water sat in the engine.
Post some pics of the paddle system and I am sure someone in here can verify which one you have.
We run the megaline which has that carbon box like posted above for power, reverse, emergency and circuit beakers
There should be some sort of pump on either the pass side floor or behind the driver
There is one loose connection hanging from the passenger side. Is this for diagnostics? Also I noticed one connection in the engine compartment doesn't look great, but I think that is just a cover. I posted the dipstick because someone said the old may have been overfilled. I have still not tried to start the car again, but it shows no oil on it. Where should the level show on the dipstick when the car is warmed up?
04-11-2019, 11:32 AM
