996cup how long do parts last?
12-22-2017, 12:47 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
For guys that want to track hours/miles on parts, check out www.racecartracking.com The website was built by a fellow 996 Cup owner who wanted to track time on his axles. You can input any part and it will automatically track the time/hours and give you warnings about when you are approaching the limits. A really terrific tool.
I upgraded to the personal version and love it; they have team and shop versions as well
01-02-2018, 08:16 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Hours tracked on all suspension parts and driveline.
1) Wheel Bearings - Change every year
2) All new suspension parts every other year. Some of the parts with rubber like dog bones every year.
3) Axles Every year clean and regrease with Krytox. Replace after 2 years (if cv joint has play during replace as needed)
4) Air Jacks - Rebuild every 2 years
5) Fuel Filter replace mid and end season. At same time clean fuel tank. lots of dirt in the track fuel tanks sometimes.
6) Air Wand - Rebuild 2 years
7) Shocks rebuild every 2 years if no signs of leakage
8) Spherical bearings (like top shock mounts) replace every 2 years
9) Clean Fuel Injectors year one, replace in year 2
10) Coils replace each year
11) Rear Plastic Window replace every 2 years
12) Metal Radiators every 2 years
13) Every 3 years ALL rubber lines / hoses in cooling system
14) Brake Calipers rebuild each year
15) Brake Master Cylinder replace each year
16) Brake lines replace each year
17) Clutch Master replace every 2 years
18) Replace 3 disc clutch each year along with through out bearing / pressure plate every 2 years
19) Replace 9v battery in Fire System (yearly is fine if you remember to turn off. Always carry spare)
20) Fire System - Review expiration date at beginning of season. Get refilled if expiring
I dont have my actual data available, but this is off top of my head. This was for our cars doing roughly 50-60 hours a year.You mileage may vary. We tended to replace more often, but we also never had a part failure at the track in almost 5 years.
1) Wheel Bearings - Change every year
2) All new suspension parts every other year. Some of the parts with rubber like dog bones every year.
3) Axles Every year clean and regrease with Krytox. Replace after 2 years (if cv joint has play during replace as needed)
4) Air Jacks - Rebuild every 2 years
5) Fuel Filter replace mid and end season. At same time clean fuel tank. lots of dirt in the track fuel tanks sometimes.
6) Air Wand - Rebuild 2 years
7) Shocks rebuild every 2 years if no signs of leakage
8) Spherical bearings (like top shock mounts) replace every 2 years
9) Clean Fuel Injectors year one, replace in year 2
10) Coils replace each year
11) Rear Plastic Window replace every 2 years
12) Metal Radiators every 2 years
13) Every 3 years ALL rubber lines / hoses in cooling system
14) Brake Calipers rebuild each year
15) Brake Master Cylinder replace each year
16) Brake lines replace each year
17) Clutch Master replace every 2 years
18) Replace 3 disc clutch each year along with through out bearing / pressure plate every 2 years
19) Replace 9v battery in Fire System (yearly is fine if you remember to turn off. Always carry spare)
20) Fire System - Review expiration date at beginning of season. Get refilled if expiring
I dont have my actual data available, but this is off top of my head. This was for our cars doing roughly 50-60 hours a year.You mileage may vary. We tended to replace more often, but we also never had a part failure at the track in almost 5 years.
I would replace the axle stub bolts every other season or when you change your axles. We have seen that the threads pull (see the picture on our website). This can lead to decreased clamp load on the washer (340 ft-lbs does not equal the same clamping force with new parts)
Also, new nuts and washers every season. You can see the wear on the contact surfaces. If they start to gall up and the nuts start to mushroom, then it is time to replace. Again, not the same clamp force with the same amount of torque.
I will be making a video shortly of exactly what wear to look for on the nuts and washers and I will post it up here to give a better description of what to look for.
Also, on the 996 vs 997.1 debate, I am a big fan of the 997.1 vs 996. I have had both and although the 997.1 is intimidating because of risk of transmission damage (which you would have with the 997.2 as well) it is a lot of fun. This has even been added to for me by adding a sequential. Also, the 997.1 is the best bang for the buck car right now. The prices are miserably depressed which is good if you are buying.
The 997.1 also is great because it shares a lot of parts with the 996. All the centerlock parts, much of the suspension. So, many of those parts have a 10 year life span of cars out there making replacement parts more plentiful. The 997.2 is only a 3 year run and many of the parts are 997.2 specific making the parts harder to get in the long run.
Thanks
Ed
