GT4 Brake and rotor questions.
10-19-2018, 02:12 PM
#1
Track Day
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Location: Indiana
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GT4 Brake and rotor questions.
Hi.All
I got 2016 GT4 with 10,000miles on it. I need a new pad on front axle. Rear looks like almost brand new. When I take to my dealership I was told that I need a new set of rotors with a new pad. Is that true? I did about 9 track days but rotor seems fine just minimal rip at the edge.
I know a guy used the same original rotors for 50,000mile(I do believe he has the highest mileage on GT$ in the world.....now 78,000miles). At least whole price was $2,900 including new pads (I think it wasn't bad)
Any advise?
I got 2016 GT4 with 10,000miles on it. I need a new pad on front axle. Rear looks like almost brand new. When I take to my dealership I was told that I need a new set of rotors with a new pad. Is that true? I did about 9 track days but rotor seems fine just minimal rip at the edge.
I know a guy used the same original rotors for 50,000mile(I do believe he has the highest mileage on GT$ in the world.....now 78,000miles). At least whole price was $2,900 including new pads (I think it wasn't bad)
Any advise?
10-19-2018, 11:19 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor. You can measure the rotors with a caliper to determine whether they are usable or not. If they’re thick enough and not warped or excessively scored you can just swap in new pads.
I generally get two pad changes on a set of rotors on the German cars I’ve owned.
I generally get two pad changes on a set of rotors on the German cars I’ve owned.
10-21-2018, 03:45 PM
#3
Instructor
Most/all track guys I know get several or more pad sets per rotor set. I've heard Porsche dealers are a bit **** about changing rotors when they change pads. Perhaps that's because the car gives a warning when the pads wear to min thickness but there is no warning for the rotors. Keeping an eye on the ridge at the rotor edge tells you all you need to know. I don't know how the GT4 rotors compare with standard CS' but Sebro slotted rotors are now available for the 981 CS, are less expensive than OEM, and last longer.
Bern
Bern
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08-02-2023, 01:51 PM
#5
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08-02-2023, 03:34 PM
#6
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Are you on Iron or PCCB rotors?
Post a picture of your rotor.
--Aaron
Post a picture of your rotor.
--Aaron
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08-02-2023, 03:41 PM
#7
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Don't listen to the dealer......you absolutely do not have to change rotors every time you change pads. Always remember the more parts they can sell you is more money for them.
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08-03-2023, 09:42 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Agree. If you have OEM rotors (cross-drilled) then small cracks extending beyond the holes are fine as long as they do not go to the free edge of the rotor and do not go to another hole.
08-04-2023, 04:08 PM
#11
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The OEM pads are decent, just wear fast.
I'd compare the stock pads (non "copper free") to the Ferodo DS2500's.
They work, but wear fast.
--Aaron
I'd compare the stock pads (non "copper free") to the Ferodo DS2500's.
They work, but wear fast.
--Aaron
08-04-2023, 07:08 PM
#12
best aftermarket brake pad for 85% street, 15% track?
Steel brakes
Steel brakes
08-04-2023, 09:11 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Mine's more of a 85% track, 15% street, but I've been loving the Ferodo DS3.12 so far. They're fantastic on the track; zero fade, seem to wear well, and so far I've only had tiny amounts of occasional squeaking on the street - not the screeching I've experienced with other track pads in the past. That said, I've only run them for two track days and a few hundred miles if that so far, so can't speak to their whole life performance. (Though I have seen them recommended by others as well.) Only downside is they're expensive.
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RobC4sX51 (08-05-2023)
08-04-2023, 11:46 PM
#14
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